Hardi Backerboard vs Cement board
chipster_2007
15 years ago
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mightyanvil
15 years agobrickeyee
15 years agoRelated Discussions
Hardi Board or Vinyl Siding
Comments (77)Actually I have seriously considered building a home of light clay and may do so someday. Ideally we should not be building with materials that will not, when we are done with them, be able to return to components that existed in the environment before we intervened. Stone, wood, metal, even ceramic or concrete can eventually break down to ancestor substances. Many plastics will not. The ones I personally object to most vigorously are the vinyls and the styrofoam-related ones. On the other hand, plastics can do wonderful things that other materials simply cannot match. My personal code is that they should be used only when they are the best material, and not when they are merely the cheapest. But I do not make decisions for others, or even want to. You will note that I said what I would do, not what Larimie should do. (In fact, it is just now that I am noticing what an old thread this is. By now the decision has long since been made.) As always, each person must make his or her own decision. It is a wide world, and there is room for difference of opinion. Rosefolly...See More1/2' cement board OK for wall of 12'x12' granite?
Comments (8)cinnamonsworld there is no other thickness thicker than 1/2"so that should be a clue that it HAS to be sufficient. All the other factors are what you have to look at. There are many. Can you talk about the studs? That would be a good start. Just btw and in case you wanted to know more, the Hardi company used to make ONLY 1/4" thick backerboard, and that was fine. One could buy twice as much and double it up to match existing 1/2" drywall next to the shower. I've used it, as 1/4" only. I would feel comfortable using 1/4" thick Hardi again, and for your tiles. I might add blocking. Or studs. It all depends on being there, on-site, and seeing the space. Of course, others may contradict me and tell you 1/4" is not "really" good. Not that anyone is going to throw themselves at your shower walls. Just realize that the studs and blocking are what really prevent flex. Cement board flexes a bit no matter what thickness. Using 1/4" you get a bigger shower. In a small space, this can make a difference. Studs. HTH...See MoreWhat thinset for Hardi Board
Comments (9)I have only ever screwed down hardiboard using the required pattern and using 1 1/4" deck screws. I am currently doing a remodel on a bathroom in my own home, that doesnt need it, we aer just changing the dymanic. it took me hours to remove the hardibaord and tile because it was so well secured. I did the orginial myself and have been a lisenced contractor since 1998 doing high end custom homes. The premise that mortar between the subfloor and hardiboard to reduce movement would make sense in an older home with floors that werent level. Floors that are level, with an 8" OC screw pattern will be flat to the floor with zero movement, guaranteed.. While removing the floor, nearly every screw looked brand new so make sure you have a good grout sealer that you apply yearly. This will also help keep your groutlines clean. My biggest concern with mortar under the backerboard is the damage you will cause to the subfloor when the homeowners tastes change in 15 years and want it all removed, just ask my wife. Even if the backerboard breaks its bond with the subfloor mortar you will at the very least need to sand it all back to level. I will add a strip of waterproofing material in front of the tub for at least 6" as the grout line against the tub tends to 'crack' or break its bond against the tub allowing water penetration at that point. But, after 16 year of being installed and having a son that took showers so hot water ran down the walls, almost zero issues even near the tub. The screws here were still intact as well, the subloor itself only looked slightly stained for about 2" in front of the tub. Also, the hardiboard i installed was not the waterproof type they add now which will be a nice addiiton to the process....See MoreHardie board or not?
Comments (7)First check to make sure the subfloor can handle tile. The John Bridge Tile Forum has a handy dandy deflecto-meter which will tell you if the joists will support tile. Then we'll need to know about the plywood. You can use a product such as Greenskin over the plywood and eliminate the thickness of ceement board, but you have to get to that stage of figuring it out first....See Moremightyanvil
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15 years ago
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