Enormous mirror glued to drywall 67' wide x 81' tall- remove?
cassidyhome
16 years ago
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Comments (21)
Michael
16 years agoRelated Discussions
He Meant Well thread
Comments (2)I had a couple of pink flamingos in my yard for awhile. I named them 'Tongue' and 'Cheek'. They finally died. I think of,embarrassment....See MoreHelp with master bath finishes
Comments (17)Yes, they're an ORB. And yes, I was planning on tiling up the wall partway, about a foot but can do wood instead. Since it would be different than the pine window trim, I'd keep the wood lower, maybe more than 3" but we'll see what they have - could rip a board down, then 1 8 ft board would do all around, it would be 5-8". I was hoping to make the bead end up at the tile surface, but can always route a simple ogee or something on the top edge. Tile would have to be installed first so we know how high to make the apron. And if I use the same boards for the table top, I could do a low backsplash on that too, I have an old table I'm using as a TV stand now that has a removable backsplash and sidesplashes, use that as a model (it's just too small to use for 2 sinks). Maybe I can even sneak a drawer in there between the sinks too. You've almost got me convinced, now I have to convince DH. A project like this is going to take me a little longer than just ordering a countertop for the builder vanity, and I've got lots of unfinished projects around (like putting together an unfinished TV stand and finishing it so it coordinates with the dark wood end tables!). If I can find a cheap cultured marble countertop with sinks to fit the old/new vanity, then all I really have to do right away is install the radiant heat and tile the floor so we can set the toilet, tile the tub deck and install the faucet. The apron and the table can wait. DH just wants the master bath functional (it *will* be 5 yrs Labor Day since we moved in!)....See MoreMid Century Modern help needed (long; lots of photos)
Comments (132)That is pretty, flyleft. I think the reasons it works are the very high ceiling, the continuing brick work on the wall surrounding the mantel, and the raised hearth. Although that vertical brick makes me wonder about maybe doing stone of some sort in a vertical brick pattern instead of the square limestone tiles. Too trendy perhaps?...See MoreExperience gluing cabinets to plaster walls?
Comments (35)(Apologies in advance for how long this response is!) I really appreciate everyone's observations and support here! I wish I'd known some of this stuff at the beginning - I'm learning so much as I go along (though often too late). As caryscott points out, it's hard to determine what this wall can support without examining it in person. Since there were cabinets on the wall before, and there are cabinets on this wall in all the other apartments in my building, I've got to assume the wall can support cabinets. (Though, based on everyone's comments here, I'm going to be careful not to store dishes or anything heavy in them.) Casey, the ceiling *is* solid concrete - in fact, there's a concrete beam right above these cabinets. (They had to hang the cabinets 2" lower than standard in order to fit under the beam - I had ordered 36" uppers thinking they'd just be able to notch the backs of the cabinets by an inch or so since that was how my old ones were done. They told me that would mean removing the hanging rail and destroying the structural integrity of the cabinets. Funny they were concerned with structural integrity *then*.) How thick would the backsplash have to be to give any support to the cabinets? Would it need to be installed *before* the uppers? With regard to this contractor - I actually believe the foreman knows what he's doing (gotta believe *someone* does!). I think it's the carpenter who's somewhat of a cowboy and does things without the foreman's knowledge... For example, the carpenter had originally told me he would notch the backs of the cabinets to fit under that concrete beam even though the foreman had wanted to hang them lower - the foreman obviously won that one. I don't believe the foreman would have approved of the carpenter planing down the sides of the cabinets if he'd known ahead of time that he was going to do it. *SO* - if the foreman thinks this industrial strength glue will hold the cabinets in place... well, I'm hoping it's true. If they have to rip out the entire wall and reframe it...well, maybe they can take up the extra width on the living room side? I don't mind losing an inch or two there. Well, I do mind, but it's less catastrophic than losing it in the kitchen! (You know, it's funny - when I was trying to work out my cabinet layout, I really wanted to move the refrigerator to that side of the kitchen, but even a counter-depth would have been too deep. I kept saying I needed another 6" in depth in my kitchen, and my mother jokingly said I should move the living room wall. Who knew???) In any case, I *am* going to tell them to re-order the cabinets - both the ones that were planed down (two lowers and one upper), and any that get damaged in removing them from the wall. (Hopefully, no more than two additional uppers.) I *am* terrified there will be so much damage to the wall that they do have to make the kitchen narrower and then we have to re-order the rest of the cabinets on that wall at only 14" or 15" deep... I barely have any countertop space on the other side of the kitchen (18" wide over the dishwasher, and 8" next to the stove), so I really need this to be a workable counter. I guess I could insist at that point that they take down the whole wall and put up a new one, taking the extra space from the living room side as described above... I don't know what the extra expense would be or who would bear it (I would hope they would have complete responsibility for this as I wouldn't be doing it otherwise). I also don't know if I need further coop approval since this would be a significant departure from my original alteration agreement. Caryscott, I checked with my KD - Kraftmaid doesn't do refinishing. Can't order unfinished doors and have them finish them, can't have them refinish the sides of planed down doors. Just not an option. Pauline, thank you for calling around for me! Wow! Don't know the details of what kind of glue they used or how it was applied, but it's good to know it's at least *plausible* that what they did would work... The permit thing may indeed be regional. I'm in NYC and I've never heard of anything having to pull any permits to do their kitchen or bathroom. OTOH, all plumbers and electricians have to be licensed and insured, and my building manager will be inspecting the work when it's finished. Ci_lantro, I apologize for the misleading subject heading. And you're right, the contractor probably used something more secure than just screws. Just my ignorance at construction techniques coming through again - I'm trying to ask the right questions! (And I'm learning an awful lot along the way...) Btw, according to the Kraftmaid specs, the cabinet backs are 3/16" plywood with birch (I got all plywood construction). The hanging rails are 3/4" solid wood base rails and 1/2" solid wood wall rails. I-Beam braces & corner blocks are 1/2" dadoed into frace frame, end panels and back hanging rail. This *is* all extremely stressful. Everyone's support and encouragement and great information here helps. THANK YOU!!! Here is a link that might be useful: Kraftmaid cabinet construction specs...See Morepete_p_ny
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