I agree that composting in place is a good idea, especially if it would enable you to keep all the material onsite instead of sending some to the landfill, saving you both time and money. The concerns you have about turning the compost and covering the bins would be important to address if you wanted compost faster or had limited space. In your case, since you're not in a hurry, you have lots of land, and what you are doing is effective, the less work the better -- I think it 'll be more productive to figure out how you can spend less time on the composting process (move piles only once, to their final locations, for instance). I have 6 compost bins and a relatively small garden plot (at a community garden, so I have to use bins). I turn them rarely, and I get good compost. Without turning, it takes a little longer. My understanding is that turning can speed up the process if you monitor temperatures daily and turn after the temperature spikes and then declines, and that otherwise turning doesn't make so much of a difference. Covering compost does help control moisture levels and help keep the compost critters warm and happy, but if it works without covers, that's ok too. I have one bin made from hardware cloth, which was drying out too much during the dry season, so I added some cardboard to keep moisture in. It's not pretty, but after one dry season, it does look like it has been very effective. Again, the cardboard sides and the cover help speed up the composting process by conserving moisture (and, to a much lesser extent, heat), but I got compost the old way, too. When I do turn my piles, it's because I see ants, which tells me there are dry spots, so I water it and then (if I have time) turn it and make sure the materials are more evenly distributed. But dry spots usually occur if I've put in a bunch of stems and twigs, and not enough small loose stuff to fill the spaces, so the stems and twigs stay dry. If I were composting only horse manure and watered as I went along, dry spots probably would not occur.

From the pictures it looks like you have a slide-in range and double ovens. It doesn't look like your kitchen is that big from the second set of pics so if it were me I would do away with the double ovens and put a counter there so you have a place next to the fridge to set things down, pour juice, etc.. I'd also do a OTR MW instead of a hood to save space..your son will outgrow his fascination with opening the MW door. If you keep the double ovens, I might put them where the pantry is closer to the stove, with fridge in middle and pantry at the other end. Im just not sold on this layout...something seems off to me..

They newer photos of your paint look pretty close to my kitchen and family room walls. :-) Don't worry about the mini-novel. It's the cheapest therapy there is, and if you can get a laugh in here or there, pretty good medicine too. You're doin' good!

You posted in the plumbing rather than HVAC... but here's my $.02: First you recognize this is really odd. You have hit on the major issues: 1. Sounds like you have an oversized AC unit for the bedroom. That would tend to reduce the temperature without reducing the humidity level in the cooling season. 2. You have tested for other sources of moisture including from the floor (are you on a slab or on crawlspace / basement?) 3. You have tested for water in the walls and have a new roof. Now what about the following: 1. have you ruled out plumbing leaks? 2. have you ruled out a clogged condensation line on the A/C unit that allows water to back up into the room somehow? 3. was the master bedroom an addition or significant remodel? 4. There isn't a humidifier on the master bedroom furnace by chance is there? You need to know that you have an accurate way of measuring humidity such as a digital hygrometer. If you are using accurate test equipment and are getting a significant change in humidity from one room to the next while the AC is off for several days, you need to find out why before you do anything else.