Remodeled my kitchen, and converted stained cabinets to painted cabinets. The paint contractor suggested/encouraged using SW Emerald water-based Urethane over SW oil based product. The cabinets were prepared appropriately and the paint was applied beautifully. But I HATE this paint and would not recommend it. It shows marks (eg if the button on my shirt rubs up against cabinet as I'm washing dishes in the sink, it leaves a black mark). Yes - you can get the marks off with a Magic Eraser, but who wants to do that? For the amount of money it cost to prepare and paint my cabinets, I do not want daily maintenance. I had the same contractor use the oil-based paint on my laundry room cabinets - no problems whatsoever. Yes - it takes longer to dry and there is a strong odor for a day or two. But the "wearability" is so much better. My decorator said the painters like to use the water-based because it dries much faster. This same story applies to my refinished wood floors. They talked me into a water-based sealer. AWFUL. The dog scratched it all up just walking on it within days. I had them come back, take off the water based sealer and add three coats of the oil based polyurethane. It's been 3 months - NOT ONE SCRATCH.

How are these being painted I sure hope not on site . I have no experience with Renner but I do know cabinets need special treatment to be done right . What does the out of the can white look like I find color matching can be disappinting often. The guy doing the cabinets needs to be an actual cabinet refinisher not just a regular house painter .

As a 20+ year expert in the window film industry, let me address a few of these issues/comments about window film: Cost/value vs. new windows - If your windows are in good physical shape, adding professionally installed window film typically pays back in 3-5 years. New windows are in the 20-year range, and triple panes are in the 30-50 year range, depending on the climate. Warranty - The Vista brand has a Gold warranty that will match your existing in-place window warranty. This covers any breakage or seal failure on top of a lifetime warranty on the film itself. Temperature control - Window film stops much of the incoming solar energy before it enters your home, drastically reducing internal temps and AC load. Cellular shades can be good insulators WHEN CLOSED, but the heat makes it through the window and radiates into the space. Combining film and shades gives you ultimate control and allows you to open the shades to keep your view. Fading - Oberon noted that glass blocks UVB but not the UVA range. UVB is what burns your skin, UVA is what causes skin cancer (deeper penetrating rays). UVA is also the biggest culprit in fading. Quality films like Vista and LLumar will stop 99.9% of UV rays with a wide range of options to dial in the amount of light and heat reduction you desire. Happy to answer any questions on window film and always recommend dealing with a certified local professional for your window film needs.

It sounds like it does the opposite of what I need. I need it to block the light emitting from inside to outside. Yep, that was what I was suggesting, that mirror film is not an appropriate product for what you want it to do. Are there any other tinting materials that will block interior lighting at night. Yes, but at the cost of lower light transmission values. example Homes built on certain Florida beaches have to meet what's know as Turtle Code. Turtle Code limits indoor to outdoor light transmission to a maximum light level of 45% at night visible from the shoreline. Turtle code exists because hatchling sea turtles would see the light from beach homes and they would head toward the homes rather than heading to the water resulting in many thousands of hatchling sea turtle deaths over the years. Scientists discovered that as long as visible light transmittance from inside the homes was below 45%, the turtles wouldn't be attracted to it and they would follow moonlight out to sea as nature intended. So per turtle code, windows facing the water are required to have glass with light transmission values below 45%. Somewhat like the Turtle code, you want to limit the light in your home from leaving through your windows to the outside at night, and while that's doable, and pretty simple, it does mean that your window glass will need to be darker in order to lower the visible light transmission. To get a rough idea of what you will be looking for, a single sheet of clear glass transmits about 92% of available light, while a clear glass dual pane has a visible transmittance of about 82%. Adding LowE coatings to clear glass will drop light transmission from 80% using a single silver high solar gain product, down to 40% or lower using a tinted low solar heat gain, low solar glare product. After market films are much the sameas adding a LowE coating in that films come in a variety of light transmission levels and depending on how much light you want to block there is probably a film that will work for you in that application. I would suggest that turtle code 45% is a good place to start, so you might go to your local big box store and see if you can get small samples of different light transmission samples that you can look at to see which one might work best for you. But again keeping in mind that nothing is without some cost and there ain't no free lunches, blocking the bright light means blocking low light too so using a coated or tinted film will affect how you see out at night as well.