Installing new tile around Gas Fireplace - Have Question
I am currently working on removing the tile from around this Heatilator brand gas fireplace. Here is a before photo:
I have started removing the old tile using a multi-tool to cut the drywall out. Those things work great! Well, after getting a few chunks out, I can start to see what I will have to do.
I noticed that the drywall behind the tile did not really sit flush with the face of the fireplace but cantilevered inwards towards the opening of the fireplace. The tile was cemented on so that it sits parallel to the wall. The remaining gap was filled with some mortar. Here is an angled photo:
So here is the big question. The new tile/stone I want to put up is this...
As the photo shows, it can flex along its seams. I need to figure out the best way to approach this. The Heatilator guide says that I can put Non combustible material on the metal sections of the fireplace including "High Temp Sealant" such as RTV103 or Rutland Appliance Mortar. #63 or equivalent.
I as thinking cement board to cover over the box, but that might not sit flush. Shoud I just use a fire resistant mortar and put on a thick application?
Does anyone know good way to handle this situation?
Should I post in the fireplace forum?
Comments (10)
bsspewer
12 years agothomaskuhn
12 years agoRelated Discussions
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Comments (5)The Building Code, the plumbing Inspector and your home owners policy will always 'hedge' on the Safest approach. Contact the Permit/Building Inspector in your county/township for the correct information. Generally putting in gas/propane/LP tanks a small tank by itself can put put in with one regualtor providing that it is a fixed permanent unit. (NOT SWAPPABLE). This protects you because some tanks don't have the newer OPD valves on them so you only get 80% of the gas the tank can hold on a fill up now because that is what the law permits. If the tank were swappable or a higher capacity tank the licensed plumber is correct in saying you will need a double regulator. Meaning a hi pressure and a low pressure line going to the tank . Most bigger tanks 250 + and up have this feature. Along with pressure relief valves, Freeze Protection and other safety features. With that being said; if your plumber is licensed as a plumber and gasfitter and he intends to keep his credentials and licensure you should do as he instructs. He is ONLY looking out for your best interest. Don't fall into the trap of being penny-wise but POUND FOOLISH. LP gas has 3 times the thermal energy of Natural gas per cu unit; it is nothing to play with.......See Morefireplace surround for new gas fireplace
Comments (5)I too have a Mendota so I know about the restrictions and it does get warm above the fireplace itself. I just laid a marble hearth but I am still uncertain as to what I am doing with the surround. I do have a somewhat tradional flammable wooden mantel with a 6' piece left to right (hope that makes sense)with two legs approximently 4' high. Whatever the exact measurements are, it falls within the acceptable guidelines. This of course, leads me to a decision as to what I want to put for the surround - as you said the area from the fireplace and mantel must be covered with a nonflammable material. I have yet to make up my mind but some of the things I have considered are 1)marble like the hearth - boring!, 2)a glass mosaic or possibly a stone mosaic i.e. onyx or soapstone that would compliment and not compete with the marble hearth. But that's just my personal preference and it may not apply to what you are trying to accomplish. The best advise I can give you is to google fireplace surround images and you will get thousand and thousands of images to consider. Good luck. Lynn fr CT...See Moregas fireplace not installed flush with wall
Comments (0)Hi!! I am currently doing a new tile job around my gas heatilator fireplace and was having some re-tiling questions were posted in the remodel forum (Link at the end of this post). What I found just now is that the fireplace front face is not square with the drywall and framing around it. This photo might show what I am talking about - the fireplace is "leaning" backwards: This pic sort of shows the slant but not really: Underneath the fireplace, I found that the firebox is resting on 4 cinder blocks. But on the front of the firebox, there is a 1/2 thick piece of wood running across between the cinder blocks and the firebox as seem here: AS far as I read in the manual, there should not even be any wood touching that surface. There is not wood on the back cinder blocks as seen here: Can I remove this board? I do not see any other places where the firebox is attached to the frame. I am hoping that is I can remove this (or shim up the back somehow) I can get the front face flush with the new drywall or concrete board I will be putting in to put the new tile on. Here is a link that might be useful: Original Fireplace...See MoreIs it a hazard to have uppers greater than 13" around a gas range?
Comments (18)"If you can find a specification telling how close a combustible wall NEXT to the range can be, then that would be where you could put the 15 inch deep cabinet, lateral-wise. Think of the cabinet as a combustible wall NEXT to the range that just doesn't go all the way to the counter top." In the specifications, the distance for the nearest side wall (right or left) is a minimum of 6". So, if the same rule applies to upper cabinets, I would need to clear 6" up on either side the range. But according to this rule, this would be true of any cabinet of any depth sitting too close to the range, wouldn't it? Why can 12" or 13" deep uppers sit directly next to the appliance, but not 14" or 15"? Since the principle at work in GE's specs is not clear to me, I know I can copy exactly what is on the spec sheet since its there in black and white - but I don't know how to extrapolate from it to see what my closest good alternative is. Edit to add: For the curious, here is a link to the spec sheet....See Morethomaskuhn
12 years agoJusr as an update, here are the pics and issues that I have posted on the fireplace forum...
I am currently doing a new tile job around my gas heatilator fireplace and was having some re-tiling questions were posted in the remodel forum (Link at the end of this post).
What I found just now is that the fireplace front face is not square with the drywall and framing around it. This photo might show what I am talking about - the fireplace is "leaning" backwards:
This pic sort of shows the slant but not really:
Underneath the fireplace, I found that the firebox is resting on 4 cinder blocks. But on the front of the firebox, there is a 1/2 thick piece of wood running across between the cinder blocks and the firebox as seem here:
AS far as I read in the manual, there should not even be any wood touching that surface. There is not wood on the back cinder blocks as seen here:
Can I remove this board? I do not see any other places where the firebox is attached to the frame. I am hoping that is I can remove this (or shim up the back somehow) I can get the front face flush with the new drywall or concrete board I will be putting in to put the new tile on.
thomaskuhn
12 years agoAs a related question, Assuming that the fireplace is flush...
should I run the tiles directly onto the fireplace surface (assuming the fireplace is flush with finished wall)? Or should I use backer board over the fireplace (assuming the fireplace is flush with the studs) and tile over that, or I would have more of a lip to deal with but could carefully tile those one by one as they wrap around the backer board edge.
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thomaskuhnOriginal Author