In my house, when someone cuts themself, we rummage around in the junk drawer, through the piles of decaying rubber bands, leaking batteries, Medusa's nest of cables to iThis and iThat, decorative bottle openers tarnished with the blood of prior guests (they never visit twice), Lego bits, moldy cookies, and small stones. Eventually we unearth a darkly grubby, crumpled-up spongy thing with a faded purple dinosaur on it. Pick the crumbling backing from the gooey adhesive. Advance on the terrified guest who is cowering in the corner, clutching her dripping pinkie. Apply the formerly-known-as-bandaid, like a medieval leech, and mutter "I said it was sharp". We don't get many complaints, but these process servers have been hanging about lately.

The solid grey is the paint on the back of the silvering. It sounds as if the glass was etched on the back side and then the silvering was applied. You could remove the silvering off the mirror, which is a nasty process. You strip the paint off the back of the mirror with stripper and then you remove the silvering with muriatic acid which is a very strong chemical with strong fumes. That would give you a clear piece of glass, with the detail intact if it is etched. If it is something that is painted on the back, you might end up removing that too and then you'd have a plain piece of glass after all your efforts. But if the detail remains you could mount this glass over new mirror like a sandwich to get a similar effect. It would be much easier for them to etch or sandblast this detail into a mirror from the front surface.

Not a solution for the OP-this is how I usually do them. Pictured is a 15" frameless. I aim for 15-18", 21 max.I rarely allow a 9" cabinet into a design but have done these at 12" For semi custom brands ordering is a hack, talk with your KD and get detailed drawing and order info. Should be something like- door shipped loose (or deleted and separate door ordered) one standard RO, one tall RO or drawer box (8" high). Method for field install of door depends on door style-options include : 6" tall narrow angle brackets on sides, "L" bracket on top of bottom box, ply attached to door, sometimes can just attach the door to the bottom box-depends. From mid range and up can just be ordered. I disable the soft close on the bottom RO often to cut down on stress when opening and no the bottles don't fall over. We used to do this a little differently so I don't have current photo just rendering but the cut away side helps clarify (have a few installing currently and will get pix once they are loaded).

Did you ever get an answer on this one? I called Restoration Hardware and they *really* didn't know. The sales rep said to assume the back of the door was not mirrored because it didn't state that it was. I have the same question. I'm looking at the small Framed Mirror in polished nickel. Thx!