I have the chef model underneath a 37.5" counter, so that would be 12"- 36". I have two drawers underneath it, a very narrow one to hold its trays and a larger one that holds MWaveable containers (glass, special plastic). Personally I have no trouble with the height and bending over. I'm 5'7" and fairly active. I think it's a good height and location. I'd far rather lift heavy hot things up than downward. I bought this speed oven rather than any other specifically in order to be able to set it below-counter. It works great there, no heat issues. My only complaint is with operating the oven itself. It sports *the worst* manual I have ever seen for anything, There's a lot of button pushing, and they're finicky. Some days I wonder if the fancier machine would have been better, but the slow learning curve is starting to rise. I have no experience with another speed oven to compare, but I am not unhappy we bought this.

I have the Monogram and can confirm the issue with the mold in the tubing too and it seems like black mold and flakes of green calcium like you see on copper. It reminded me of the clear 1/4” irrigation lines you can buy for aquariums and such. I had clear piping for some plants on the deck and they would clog with calcium build up. I switched to the black 1/4 inch tubing and the problem went away. I wonder if replacing the piping in the GE Monogram with black tubing would solve the issue. It seems like light contributes to the growth with my experience with clear tubing in irrigation. Does the little bit of light the ice maker gets cause the issue? I am not sure, but I may try black piping the next time I clean it. The half inch stuff they sell at Lowe’s should work and I may put some 90 degree elbows in with the connections to help out with the length of the piping. I know the ignorance is bliss will come in to play at least with the black piping. I wonder if bleach will work work any better than the phosphoric acid cleaner to clean the pipes? May give that a try before the phosphoric cleaning The GE Monogram is loud. The water valve is just plain old loud. Not sure why a water valve has to be loud! i was think of putting a carpet remnant underneath, and cutting a big piece of styrofoam to put beneath the door. Heat displacement versus sound will be the battle.

ulinesalesguy, 1.) not to nit pick but: If you add the icemaker option to your lower drawer you will lose that space for storing ,say icecream, but this it's a zero sum game when you add an icemaker to any freezer you have to give up storage space. This is not an advantage or disadvantage, or limited to your product only. Secondly, 2 cu. ft. isn't much and it's lees when you have an icemaker in there. Good for storing frozen drink mixes, a few mugs and some martini glasses, but hardly enough freezer space for a family's deep freeze needs. And, it's two tiered, again great for organizing bar stuff , not so good for everyday stuff. If it's 2 cf without the maker - I apologize, but the storage space is still limited for a family freezer. If your top drawer was a freezer too, you'd be in a better position. 2.) Re: the installation ease - the newer models are easier than the previous generation but on everything else you are either way biased or just plain wrong! 1. in order to level you units one must pull the unit out of the opening multiple times in order to get it level because you Do Not Provide rear leg adjustment from the front of the unit ! 2. Your toe kick vents do not allow cabinetry toekick to be placed in front of them for a fully integrated install. Even if we went to the trouble of milling vent holes in our kick lik shown in your after the fact toekick section, it would still be well to far forward to be of use. Toekick recess is typically 3-4" and with your set up 1 1/2" is about all you'll get at the end of the day. Furthermore, milling the slots in veneered toekick on either plywood or particleboard substrates leaves unsightly raw wood showing in the cutouts. This eliminates 99.5% of any euro cabinet makers from the game , most of who's customers are looking for a fully integrated look. 3. Your water hookup is at the rear - again the installer must have all the connections completed before the unit is placed back in the opening, and has to hope he doesn't kink the line while doing so. Our guys find that front hookups are much easier and less hassle. I agree this is personal pref., but I and my guys have put in everyone's units and we like what's easiest and are not wed to any particular brand out of necessity. 3. The overlay panels are still not as easy as a SZ or other brands that use a bracket system. First I have to disassemble the handle and gasket to get to the mounting fasteners. On the SZ, you just remove some tape and open a bag of screws that are provided. Secondly, we have to have a 1/4" backer panel made to a specific size that tehn must be attached to the 3/4" drawerfront and then slid in the track and then the plastic plug screwed on and then massaging the gasket back into place , which if done in a hurry or sloppy is going to cause an air leak and a service call. After that the panel dance starts: lining up the panels with their adjacent cousins is near impossible. If the installer wants to adjust it by moving the position of the 1/4" panel he gets to remove the gasket and the screws and repeat. He could also pull out the drawer and start fiddling with the drawer runners themselves, but that's not particularly easy and screws with the runner's geometry which isn't ideal either. On top of that, your standard gap between drawers is 1/2" ! No cabinet makers have a 1/2" between panels - it'd look ridiculous. 3mm (1/8") is what we typically use. The SZ by comparison can be level entirely from the front while the unit is in it's opening. The water hookup is in the front of the unit too, so the hose binding is not a problem and he can see what he is doing at all times and easily verify leaks. The panels uses two brackets the installer fastens to the drawer panel based on an included template, and the brackets mate to slots and screws that allow vertical and horizontal movement to align them with adjacent panels. No messing with the drawer runners is necessary. No additional backers are needed to attach the drawer panel to the unit. Installers don't need to think about or go looking for screws to attach the panel - they're all included. Lastly, and most importantly your units have NO ATTACHMENT provision! They are free standing which is fine - except if you are trying to fully integrate. Units that move lead to mis -alignment of panels which lead to unhappy homeowners and service calls for us. Doug - I'm not looking to slam U-Line or say it that the SZ 700 series is a better product, or pick a scrap here. I simply don't think you guys have a product to meet lalitha's needs IN THIS INSTANCE. I also don't think your units are easier to install than competitors, and I'm not alone in this regard. In this regard I think I/ we are in a good position to comment on this subject as we have and continue to use all brands so we have a good sampling out in the real world. It simply depends on the particular customer's need and the product itself with regard to ease of installation. I think U-line makes some very good products and I have one in one of my homes. I think their 2275 double drw wine captian is THE CAT"S MEOW. Also, the SZ drawers have limitations too! Only come in 27" which is a HUGE problem in many wet bars especially from a design perspective as nothing else is that size and it screws with symmetry. Their same mounting system that makes drawer panels easy at 27" becomes a hindrance when applied on the 36" model. The panel's size and weight become unwieldy for one man and cumbersome for two. BSH's and Miele's hanging bracket arrangement is much more installer friendly - though neither has all drawer models. todds - the FP drawer is a rare and quirky bird. Not a mainstream product and I have never been a fan of multipurpose machines - they never do anything well. Plus, what are you going to do with all the ice cream whn you switch it to a beverage drawer for the party??? These things sound good on paper but rarely work in practice. I have no long term experience with one so cannot comment with much depth or authority on it. I am glad it is in the marketplace though.

Sharp has a patent on the technology in their drawer micro, so you will only see them made by or possibly under license by Sharp until someone invents something new to compete -- but Sharp seems to be the only one doing new things with micros these days. You definitely don't need to spend more for another name on one unless you have a highly stylized kitchen where that different front will really make a difference in pulling all the details together. For most of us, appliances are tools, not the jewelry. The size is the same because Sharp introduced the drawer in the 30" width with all that trim to fit under ovens and warming drawers. The 24" version came out within a year, if I remember correctly, and now that seems to be the most popular size. The working parts are all the same. As far as regular ovens, the interior sizes have changed as insulation has improved. I have had a 27" oven I couldn't fit a full size cookie sheet into and another that I could. I probably could have stayed with a 27" oven, but I went to 30" to be sure I had interior room and because there were fewer 27" models out there and I didn't want to be faced with not having options when this one needs replacement.