Hi, If you look at the reference the author is using in the article you linked to, there is a link to a picture showing you how it is done. Here it is: Here is a link that might be useful: Putting on Plastic

@ci_lantro 1) smaller sink - NO. Clearly you don't cook. Or at least you never do dishes. Plus, I have no idea why you even suggested that to start with. I don't NEED to put a smaller sink there because there is already plenty of room for a full size sink. A "smaller" sink that is still big enough to manage a few dishes isn't going to give me more than a few inches of extra countertop space at most. The ONLY reason to go to a smaller single bowl sink would be if there isn't enough space at the corner for an angle-mounted full size sink. But I'm 90% sure that there is, without cutting into the drawer unit next to the fridge there. I may have to cut into the stile about 1/4" though. I'll know better when I get the existing countertop off. Angled wall cabinet is not a problem as it can easily be cut down - or rather "up", perhaps. Remember this is actual wood, not the MDF crap that is all anybody can afford these days. As I said in the OP "I may or may not have to shorten that corner cabinet where it would hang out over the new sink area." I know, it was super long, but that cabinet is not an issue. I can do the same to the wall cabinets to the right there as well, if necessary. If it's a problem, it is easily fixed. In fact regardless of what else I do, I WILL be semi deconstructing that cabinet anyway to install a lazy susan as it is virtually useless as-is. 3) CANNOT move the fridge as you say without losing ALL the upper cabinetry on the opposite side of the room. From the OP "The entire expanse of wall cabinets along the long wall is one big long open space inside, ditto the 8' of cabinets on the opposite wall." Plus, the fridge is WAY deeper than the dishwasher and would stick out too far there. I didn't post a pic of that but it is next to an exterior door and putting the fridge there would block the passage through there. That wasn't mentioned in the OP simply because the fact that there is a wall cabinet over there (single unit 8' long) precludes doing that already. 4) putting a corner sink over the current "dead space" is an excellent use of that space. Since "under the sink" is already pretty much dead space. But if I WERE going to replace cabinetry there is no way I would leave that "dead space" dead, I'd at least put in a lazy suzan corner cabinet. "Dead space" should NEVER be left "dead". Unfortunately the kitchen backs onto the bathroom there (the toilet is on the opposite side of that wall) or I would have seriously considered cutting into that wall (NOT a supporting wall) from the back and gaining access to that space that way. Honestly I think those L corners are the best place to put a sink with the least wastage. Plus that space all the way back in the corner is already too hard to reach when looked at in the context of "working" counter space. Currently it just collects kitchen "driftwood" until I get fed up and clear it out again. But it is PERFECT for putting dishwashing accoutrements behind an angle-mounted sink, that you only need to get at briefly while doing dishes. In fact if this works out I'll be making a triangular dish draining "rack" to go there with a dish draining mat under it. PERFECT for doing dishes and not taking up otherwise usable working countertop space!

Does anyone have a pic with stone wrapped on the sides and built-ins? Because I see that as contradictory the way I see built-ins usually done. The built-ins need to attach to something and while they could be designed to attach to stone, that would be a fairly custom thing to do. Now if they are just shelves like the inspiration photo, then obviously stone on the sides is straightforward and easy. But to me- that is not a built-in. I just realized that we have window seats next to (and attached to) brick. There is basically a caulk line. It is painted brick so I think that is a little easier to have it look right - but I could see it with a flat cultured stone also. Not sure I would like it but I could see it. Don't really love it with the brick but it is only 18 inches off the ground. We purposely designed the fireplace with windows on either side to make sure that no one put built-ins in this house for the eternity of its existence. Because of what chocolatesnap said. There also happens to be an ad next to this thread with a pic of white subway tile in a kitchen. Ugh.

the foundation was covered in spray foam by a previous owner, and, well, our engineer told us we needed to remove it for the health of the foundation. High-density closed cell polyurethane spray foam is the recommended insulation by Dr. Lstiburek of Building Science Corp., one of the leading building scientists in North America. Here's how Dr. Lstiburek used spf on the rubble foundation of his own home. So what was the rationale your engineer gave for removing the spray foam? I've used spf on new builds, including the foundation. The only concerns I've seen reported are with inexperienced applicators and with the less than climate-friendly blowing agents in some of the older formulations. The only problem I experienced with the foundation spray was twisting finish trim as the homeowner didn't keep a properly-sized dehumidifier running 24/7 as recommended. As for the recommended insulation strategies: All the options but #1 seem like overkill on party walls and noticeably reduce usable floor space. Without an air barrier on the outside of the existing timber walls, the moisture drive to the interior will be trapped between the timbers and the interior air barrier/housewrap all the proposed options include. Instead of an impermeable barrier, consider a smart vapour retarder instead.