>>read the bible... it didnt answer my questions on bringing back a chemically damage lawn, or what the consequences of applying a super shot of nitrogen would do to an already damaged lawn. It doesn't really deal much with incidental problems (because there are so many). In this instance, over-application of Image caused some chlorosis. Whether it's blocking photosynthesis or chlorophyll production or iron uptake, I don't know, but the fact that the company recommended Ironite suggests it's blocking chlorophyll or iron uptake. Time is really the only cure for that, plus treating the symptoms. Milorganite will help with that, although it's not going to be the magic cure it can be on chlorotic lawns that aren't otherwise stressed. Flushing with water might help, but it takes quite a bit--usually three inches per water application, repeated several times in a reasonable time span. Three inches of water is fifteen hours with a standard oscillator (variable timings with an in-ground). Since I can't find if Image is soil binding or water soluble, whether it'll help at all is unknown. Super-shots of nitrogen are handled fairly well by Bermuda lawns, that I know, but there is a definite limit. On damaged lawn, I'd target 1 pound per thousand of nitrogen (synthetic) or slightly less and not stress it--but I'd also keep an eye on it and feed it again any time past the 2 week mark if it looks like it wants more to eat. Or, less but more often, roughly the way people eat when sick. I'm not a fan of excessive nitrogen on any grass at any time as that excess tends to end up in the air as an NOx compound or in the water supply, causing eutrophication in streams and lakes. I have no objection to normal amounts applied more often if the grass or gardens require it--air and water escape is far lower in that case. Still, there are cases where breaking that rule makes sense. A stressed lawn of any species isn't one of them, it's not going to be a super-heavy feeder at any particular instant, although to restore it feeding more often will probably be required to keep a steady flow of N into the grass and encourage it to spread into any dead areas. Bermuda is very happy to spread aggressively in warm weather when well-fed, so keeping a constant flow for the rest of the summer will certainly help with that.

I'm smiling here...I have a friend who runs a dairy and he told me (us) once that they sell more Hagen Daz out of the C-stores than anywhere else and wondered why. Turns out it was Mom and Dad who bought the 4 liter pail of cheapo ice cream for the home freezer so the kids could do their thing but once the kids were in bed...Dad was off to the 7-11 for a small Hagen Daz for he and Mom to share as they snuggled on the sofa watching the movie or whatever. But it had to consumed that night, hence the smaller package. Can't let the kids know about Hagen Daz or you are in the poorhouse!

I haven't read all the posts so if this is a repeat of what's already been said I apologize. Have you tried changing out your lighting to reveal bulbs if you don't have them already. They can make a huge difference in how a paint color looks. Just recently my reveal bulb in my pendent in my kitchen burned out and all I had on hand was a daylight flourescent. I like those bulbs and have them in my lamps. However, when I put this one in my pendent in the kitchen it turned my walls a muddy ugly color. I had to immediately take it out as it made me ill to look at my pretty walls so ugly. Needless to say the nest day a reveal went in. Also do you have items in the room yet or are you just judging the paint by itself? Furnishings and other decor can make what you think is an ugly paint look very good. Not sure if this is the case with yours but thought I would mention it. Good luck and I know how you feel, been there, done that to the tune of $100 in paint and many wasted hours.

Thanks so much, paintguy! I think my problem may have been that after I cut in with a brush, I painted most of the ceiling with a 1" nap roller on an extension pole. ( I did get the good Purdy one.) I will say it got heavy fast, so I probably applied different pressures. Then I'd go to the ladder and shorter poles. And then, then next day to finish I used a 3/4" roller, and for touch-ups I'd grab a brush. As far as the paint not sticking by the crown, I suspect the old caulk may have been silicone? Glad to hear I don't need scaffolding! And I would call in a pro, but I thought this would be an easy enough job that I could tackle myself, and save the pros for actual construction stuff. I guess a pro would have finished long, long before I ever will, tho! So...maybe different applicators and different pressures are the problem? Sometimes in certain light it almost looks like I used different sheens, but it's all the SW ceiling paint, Wool Skein. I think I'll call this the first coat, and go over it all again with the same roller nap! Again, thanks so much!