Sure. The metal we selected came from Drexel Metals Corporation, 204 Railroad Drive, Ivyland, PA 888-321-9630. The name is "Metallic Copper". The other metal manufacturer that offers a faux copper is Atas, and it's called "Coppertone". Avoid that one, it doesn't have the metallic finish and doesn't look as authentic as the one from Drexel. Not sure if you are in PA, but the company that did my roof was Radick Corporation, and I highly recommend them. Their work was superior. Lee Radick is a man of extremely high integrity, just a wonderful experience - they also capped all of our wood trim, rafters, soffits, and fascia with metal for a totally maintenance free exterior. Good Luck with your project!

Did they place a water and ice shield barrier on the edge of the roof to three feet past the wall line? Your roof is not similar, only the material is. Original roof was solid from eave to ridge so any ice formed would just keep backing up the roof without penetrating. New roof is pieces which allow the ice to form and move underneath and then leak in the house.

this has a lot to do with if you can secure the new roof to the roof deck and that has a lot to do with how your house was built. Some metal roofing MUST be placed directly on top of a solid, smooth, roof material. Others can be installed with an air gap between the old roof and the new metal roof. Wood strips (purlins) are placed over the old roof and attached securely to the roof deck. The new metal roof is then attached to these wood strips. I think this would be possible for you to do. However, I would think that maybe removing the roof would be worth your while, as you may get some money for it because many metals are very expensive right now and companies are willing to buy and recycle it. Removing a metal roof would be easier than removing an asphalt roof also.

I won't comment about the engineering aspect, but have first hand experince dealing with house that has roofs over roofs. The old roofs were not removed, and trying to run wires or climb around in the attic can be a real chore. Removing the roof a section at a time once the new roof is up will only work if you plan on removing the ceiling and then dropping the chunks of the old roof into the room below, and that is still a pain in the behind. Our house started out as a 9x12 rectagle with a 12/9 roof pitch (yes more than 45degrees). Then another room was drug on to the property and the two attached. The second is 14x20 and had a 12/12 roof pitch. These two are T'd with the first section butting up to the side of the second section. THey were set about 6' apart and the first section was extended to meet the second section. Both of these are one level. Than a third section was built (1&1/2 story) that T'd off the second section. That section is 16x22 and has a 12/12 roof. The peak of the roof on the second section is about where the short wall ends on the second floor of the third section. This third section stuck out about 4' on the side where the first section was, and formed a small area between. THis was closed in and became a closet, and the roof was extended to cover it, but was flatten way out to match the eave lines. This part had extensive water damage from long ago. Then a porch was added to side of the first section, making it much wider. A new roof was built that extended from the original peak over the new section so now half the roof has a 12/9 pitch and the other side has a 3/12 picth. The old roof was left,including a layer of shakes and two layers of shingles. At some point this porch was closed in and turned into living space. Then a second porch was added off the second section, and the roof line was change to a 4/12 pitch. To keep the house from looking really strange, the roof line on the side connected to the first section was changed to a 4/12 pitch also, with the new roof going from the peak of the second section and extending out over the second roof of the first section. The small part over the second section that is on the other side of the peak of the first section was extended out to the end of the little square section between the first and third sections, that roof line has a different pitch than the other sides. That part of the roof had a swale and bounced becuase the people that did it made a big mistake. They cut the rafters so they were only 2" where they rested on the wall - we found that out when we removed the ceiling in that area. DH and I added an addition that T's off the other end of the first section. It is a few feet higher as we wanted a basement and have a high water table. We live in an area prone to tornadoes and really wanted a storm shelter - and I didn't like having to deal with an exterior entrance to deal with frozen water pipes in the small cellar the house had. We also built a cold roof over the existing 1 1/2 story section. That did not change the pitch but dealt with the poor insulation and ventelation problems. We also rewired and replumbed the entire house (it was not originally built with either, btw) and I spent a lot of time crawling around under the different roof lines. I had to cut out a decent sized section to gain access to some of the old wires (we vaulted one ceiling). That was a lot of work removing shingles with small tools (no room for a big shovel up there) and handing them down bucket by bucket through the small access panel in the laundry room. Only good thing is I was only a few feet from the access. Cathy