Removing 1/2 of a load bearing wall

16 years ago

We live in a ranch home but it's not a normal ranch floor plan (it's built into a hill - basement is a finished/walkout). Our upstairs living room is 12'x15' and opens to the "dining room" in the front of the house which is also 12'x15'. Between the two rooms is a wall that we think is load bearing. The wall has a large opening for the living room, and another door to our bedroom.

We're looking to make the living room a bedroom 9x12 by adding a wall 9' from the window. This leaves us a space of 6x12 however if we can remove 7 1/2 of the load bearing wall 4' on one side, 3 1/2 on the other to either side of the current opening, the space would open up into our other room and that room would be 18'x15'.

Not sure if this makes sense. I have pictures but can't figure out how to upload them. We know we will need to hire someone to do the tear down/beams, but otherwise plan to do the new wall/door ourselves with the help of family.

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Comments (6)

Jon1270
16 years ago
You can't upload pics to this forum directly; they need to be hosted on someone else's webspace (look into Photobucket) and linked to in your posts.
brickeyee
16 years ago
When a portion of a load bearing structure is removed the weight is transferd to what remains.
The foundation under the ends of the opening must be checked to make sure it can handle the increased point load.
Ever notice the pilasters at each end of a steel basement beam?
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Ok. Let me try this again. I have color-coded the drawing to help explain what I am asking. What I am trying to accomplish is to have the benefit of extra space without totally removing the load-bearing wall. With the island I would like to put in, I won't have a wide enough walkway if I line the load-bearing wall with cabinets. However, I was thinking that I might be able to keep the support from the load-bearing wall, place a pantry, closets or cabinets around the supports for that wall, and create a non-load bearing wall behind it. Sort of bumping the wall back without losing the structural integrity it provides and without the cost of removing it, especially because I would need to put up another wall between the dining room and kitchen, even if it is not as long. Otherwise, there is nowhere to put the fridge. This means I would lose some space in the dining room, but we don't use it more than 1-2/times per year. I am attaching some photos of my very ugly current kitchen to give you a better idea of the current layout. At this point, I am wondering if this idea has any merit before I move into other floor plans for the space. I really, really want the big island but am not sure if it is feasible. 1. View from dining room into kitchen: view from front hallway near stairway 3.kitchen from family room 4. view of load-bearing wall from kitchen toward the dining room 5. another view of load-bearing wall 6. from garage entrance into kitchen 8.from bay window area toward load-bearing wall If there are other views you would like to see, please let me know.
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Your picture seems to show 2x4s, a doubled sill plate, a gap, then a header. If that header spans from an exterior wall to an exterior wall, the 2x4s and doubled sill plate aren't doing any work other than holding up drywall.
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If you are looking at LVL beams, you should have a table similar to this one, which gives you the guidelines for height and width of beam required. https://www.weyerhaeuser.com/application/files/8514/9517/9127/1484260463_TB-551.pdf Based on my reading of this table (maybe I'm not correct) you may need quite a bit taller or thicker beam for the span. You also need to determine how the load transfers to the floor underneath, and verify that it has sufficient strength. The original wall had multiple points in the floor evenly supporting this area, and now you will have a post that puts a much heavier direct load on a small area. You may need a basement support below, or thicker concrete under that post. Do your calculations and plan, and then hire a structural engineer to verify the calculations and sign off on the plan. This will reassure you, and keep the AJH happy. The reason I suggest getting the data together yourself first is that engineers don't all work on this type of homeowner construction job, and its better to simplify the question for them. If the engineer has to find the load tables for your specific brand of LVL beam, and do all the other data gathering himself/herself (find data on supports under the post, etc.), it will take that much longer. Bruce
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Removing the wallpaper in the kitchen would be a big improvement. Wood is ‘in’ plus is classic, and the cabinets look to be in good condition. With a warm white paint on the walls and new countertops, this kitchen would be very nice. And add some under cabinet lighting, if it’s not already there. Maybe down the line, a floor update to wood or wood look vinyl planks or even stone look LVP - but I don’t know if that is even necessary. Personally, I would consider doing these minor kitchen updates, prior to moving in. These couple of changes would make a big difference. As far as the wall:: Personally, there is no way I would remove it. Not only is it load bearing... but it serves an important aesthetic function. Open concept is really a bit overdone, at this point. Everyone is not interested in sitting in the living room and looking smack into the kitchen. Plus, with your setup, I think you would also have a grand view of the kitchen from the foyer - without that load bearing wall there. I would personally have zero interest in spending a ton of money and tearing up a house for the end result of less privacy and less graciousness. But it is a matter of personal preference, of course.
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gris388
Original Author
16 years ago
Here's a link to the picture of the room/wall.

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c334/grisxgris/100_1547.jpg

Brickeyee, I'm not sure what pilasters are? What should I be looking for in the basement?
igloochic
16 years ago
You can look at it all day long, but in the end, to get a permit, you're going to have to have a structural engineer make the decision. I'm altering/removing two structural areas in our home and what we had to do is get the plans (if you don't have them the county will) and have a structural engineer sign off on either a removal, or suggest an alternative (ie posts). It only cost a couple hundred dollars and saved us years of looking at an ugly post :)
mag77
16 years ago
>

Sounds like a good plan, if you hire folks who're licenced, bonded, insured and pull the necessary permits.

John
mightyanvil
16 years ago
To post a photo:

go to http://tinypic.com (it's free and no sign up is required)

select "browse" and go find your jpg, png, gif, or tif photo file and select it (it will be automatically downsized to 250K)

select the "upload image" button

copy the contents of the "HTML" window and paste it into the text part of your message.

Now preview you message. If you can see the photo, submit the message.

If you are unsure of yourself try all of this first at the test forum which is linked at the bottom of the main forum page. You might have to play with the dimensions of the original photo to keep the downloaded version from being too large since that sometimes stretches the text of all messages to the right (possibly off the screen)

It is also possible to copy the contents of the URL window and to then paste it into the "Optional Link URL" box. You must also type a description in the "Name of the Link" box.

Good luck

Removing 1/2 of a load bearing wall

Comments (6)

Jon1270

brickeyee

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gris388
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mag77

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Removing 1/2 of a load bearing wall

Comments (6)

Jon1270

brickeyee

Related Discussions

gris388Original Author

igloochic

mag77

mightyanvil

COMPANY

BUSINESS SERVICES

GET HELP

CONNECT WITH US

gris388
Original Author