like a pocket door...but outside the wall
our_first_home
17 years ago
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sierraeast
17 years agosierraeast
17 years agoRelated Discussions
install pocket door in new wall build in front of existing wall??
Comments (17)Well, I opened the wall Friday and I found two heating ducts in the way in one wall and two supply pipes and a waste pipe in the other, so the usual pocket door is dead. Guess what else I found, two splices of 15 amp lines, and not the first time I've found shortcuts and outright code violations in this house. I won't say who built this house but it rhymes with A$$hole Bros. Matt, the doors I want to hang weight 100 lb. Do you think that on the wall track who gave me a link to is robust for long term track stability? The instructions claim good for 150 lb but I'm paranoid. Perhaps to be totally safe, should I construct a new frame from whense to hang the track in the usual fashion. Or am I just being an old woman. Don't want to open up the wall in 10 years to fix a sagging track. Brick, I'm a little confused. By 1X lumber, do you mean frame the wall next to the door with 1X2s and then attach 3/8 plywood to it, finally cover with 3/8" drywall? Or would the plywood go first and then the 1X2s to attach the drywall? Thanks!...See MoreBlack Interior Doors...but there's one little issue.
Comments (24)I do like the look of the dark wall. However, the views from the back of this house are really great. And when I was choosing wall colors what I found was the darker colors around the windows (for the back side of the house) took away from the view. Hard to describe. With the dark walls, you saw the dark wall and window frames. With the light walls, you see "view". Here's my breakfast area, maybe you can see what I mean. I think I'll just put the black doors on the back burner for now. Thank you for the mock ups, they are so helpful!!...See MorePocket door wall material options for tiling
Comments (2)We have installed three pocket doors. The metal-clad "studs" that come with some pocket door kits may be okay under plasterboard, but we decided the flex in them is not to our liking and is way too much for tile. On the door in the tiled bath, we purchased three floor-to-ceiling steel bars, about 1 1/2 inches wide by 5/8 inch thick, and set them against a sheet of 3/4 inch plywood with spacers (between and on both edges of the plywood wall) made of 3/4 inch plywood. The bars are held in place (in the channels between the spacers and edgers) by metal straps secured to the plywood (which is 3/4 x 2 = 1 1/2 inches thick). We raised the plywood-metal bar wall as a unit, securing it by screwing through the end tab of the plywood sheet into 2x4s at the top, bottom, and above the door track (the steel bars and plywood spacers sit on the edge of a 2x4 lying flat on the floor). We had to be careful not to screw where the metal bars were attached. This gave us the stiffness we wanted--the wall seems immovable and without vibration even when pounded with a fist. For the other two doors, we sacrificed a few inches of room space and just built a full stud wall on both sides of the door. These walls do not seem as stiff as the wall with the metal bars and tile, so we cannot say how tile would fare, but we are satisfied with the solidity of both. Because we wanted to keep the edge of the door visible when fully open (to leave the door pull visible and accessible without needing hardware at the edge of the door) the wall on one side is shorter than on the other, and the door protrudes beyond both inside and outside walls, so it does not look as massive as it might have. BTW, we paid extra for the commercial-grade I-beam pocket door tracks, which will carry a 300 pound door. Over time, the track on the base model seems to splay and cause the door rollers to bind (we have seen this even on the brand new houses of friends) but our I-beam pocket doors have been rolling smoothly for four years and counting. The cost difference is not insignificant, and we had to find the product ourselves and convince our builder to use it, but in the end, even he was impressed. All of this might have been overkill, but worrying about popped tiles, having seen many failed pocket doors, and not wanting to get into the walls again, we cried once and are very happy with the result. Hope this helps. Here is a link that might be useful: This is the I-beam track, which I think we bought cheaper elsewhere...See MoreClosing an exterior door (but not removing it)?
Comments (13)Sorry for the confusion. Here's an (imperfect) floorplan of the house. You can see the area in question in the middle of the image, on the righthand side. Again, this floorplan isn't precise, but you get a rough sense for the layout. I've lived here only a couple months so I haven't personally put any appliances in the basement. But I assume one would carry them in through the front or back door and then down the stairs, navigating tough spots by standing the, say, water heater up vertically. If I add a pantry in here, I still think there's room to take in and out old appliances in the outside entrance to the basement (not pictured on the floorplan). What concerns me is this 3x3 landing rule. Is that part of the building code? So if I added the pantry I'd run into problems whenever I wanted to sell the house?...See Moreabnorm
17 years agomag77
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17 years agosierraeast
17 years agoabnorm
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