You want to use clear silicone caulking, not a strip. Any kind of strip, no matter what the material or how squishy, is not going to give you the physical bond you need. Some strips, like the ones they use in window installations are adhesive, but they are also mating two surfaces (glass and frame) that are perfectly flat. With the variation you have, the strip will be very tight in some places and not so tight in others. It will also bulge out in the tighter places when you mount the sink, and, if you mount it far enough in from the edge to not see that, you will have an area that collects grunge. In addition, because of the variation, you will probably have water wicking in under the sink edge. Trust me...use the silicone adhesive. It will be much easier and give you a perfect seal.

Thank you, kudzu. I did state that we would also be using the clear silicon bead around the base of the sink, too, for exactly that reason - but it stands to reason that just using clear silicon adhesive would not be sufficient to fill in the gaps enough to stop any potential rocking if someone leans on the sink edge, as an example. The point of the silicon "strip" if it can be had is that it WILL take up the gap in the "valleys" yet still give a snug fit across the hills. Then the extra precaution is finally using the silicon bead at the base of the counter/sink edge.

but it stands to reason that just using clear silicon adhesive would not be sufficient to fill in the gaps enough to stop any potential rocking if someone leans on the sink edge, as an example.

No, it doesn't stand to reason. You may imagine it that way, but only because you haven't tried it. Kudzu is absolutely right.

I respectfully differ with you, jon. If you had in front of you my sink, sitting in the test hole we've prepared - then perhaps you would understand. It's quite clear (pardon the pun) that just a bead of clear silicone adhesive would NOT be sufficient. The primary purpose of the bead is for a "seal" to prevent water from leaking down below the deck from splashes & water residue on the deck, etc. - it's not to provide a tight and everlasting fit when having an irregular exterior profile of a sink. And, when we just went to a Home Show and visited with at least 6+ different granite contractors there and showed them pics of our sink, they totally agreed just using the adhesive would not be enough. Two of them recommended this silicon strip, having used it themselves for exactly the same purpose; I just can't seem to find it. Otherwise, one just cannot get a good, tight fit! I'm even thinking now, as a last resort, of perhaps using a toilet wax ring lowered into the opening, cut to size and not so thick, of course.

I think the link below may be what you're searching for.

If I understand correctly, you want to only line the granite cutout with the tape, then place a bead of silcone on top of the granite and around the edge of the bowl.

I have to agree with the others on the staying power of silicone caulk. If you've ever tried to remove a shower frame that is being held only by silicone on each side, good luck! One has to cut & pry the silicone in order to remove the frame.

I would stay away from wax since any residue is going to interfere with the caulking adhesion.

Also, be sure to allow for the thickness of the tape in setting your sink height.

Here's another link showing prices. I couldn't get it to direct link. http://cshyde.thomasnet.com/category/tapes-with-psa. Once the site opens scroll down to Silicone Strip & Stick Tape.

Here is a link that might be useful: Silicone tape

arlinek-
I still am not convinced that that is the best way to mount the sink. Let me suggest an alternative that may work better. As I understand it, there is a modest mismatch between the circle that is cut out in the granite and the outside of the sink because the sink is irregular. I would still argue that it is not good to use a silicone strip all the way around because I think you want a lot more contact of the silicone sealant where the surfaces meet. By putting in a spacer strip all the way around, and then caulking, you decrease the amount of area for the sealant to contact. Instead, how about if you place 4-6 squares of silicone filler material around the perimeter of the sink, mainly to cradle it a little so no part of the glass is bearing directly on the granite edge. Then caulk neatly all the way around. If you can do that, the sink will be much better affixed to the granite and there is less risk that it will come loose and rock at some time in the future.

Your way may work, but it gives me pause. Just my 2 cents.

It might help if you can post a photo or link to an advertisement for this particular sink.

When I read your initial description of the situation, it sounds to me as if the bumps and waves are on the very outer edge of the sink, i.e. most easily seen by looking straight down onto the edge of the sink. It also sounds as if you're planning to cut a rabbeted/stepped circle into the granite so that the lip of the sink is partially recessed into the stone, creating uneven gaps between the stone and the edge of the sink. But, I can't reconcile that image with the concern, expressed in your followup, that leaning on the sink might cause it to rock; the bumps and waves I'm imagining are along the edge, not underneath the lip.

In any case, cured silicone caulk is quite firm -- firmer, I suspect, than the 'gummy bear' sort of material you're hoping to find.

Consider that one wouldn't just place the sink and then caulk it; one would lay a thick bead of caulk down before setting the sink in place, bedding the sink entirely in silicone. This would be quite secure.

Here's a link to a previous discussion and the advice that was given then. It also has a pic of the sink in question.

Here is a link that might be useful: Bath Forum Discussion

Thanks for the link, Live Wire -- very illuminating.

Nigel, you understand perfectly and a GREAT link! And yes, Livewire's link shows my sink. My thoughts were to not line the entire vertical part of the opening (the granite is 1" or 1-1/4" thick) in the granite with the silicon strip, only perhaps the lower half or so (making it less visible, also), leaving enough room above the strip and the embedded bowl to fill in the rest with the silicone adhesive. I think it's an extra precaution worth doing. And Kudzu: yes, your suggestion might work, also, but I'm concerned that the blocks of silicone filler might show readily since there would be gaps without the filler and so that may draw attn. to the periodic squares? Dunno - will have to experiment.

arline-
With situations like this, it's true that you may just have to experiment, and there is nothing wrong with that. Sometimes I've concocted a brilliant approach for one of my projects...and then ended up altering it when I tried to do it! I think you have enough understanding of the pros and cons now and, as long as you have all the materials handy for any of these approaches, you'll hopefully come up with something that's secure and looks nice. Good luck.

It looks like the most important thing is to make sure the hole is conical, with the angle on the granite matching the angle of the sink as closely as possible. If the hole is straight-sided, it will be extremely difficult to get any sort of filler / sealer to stay in place.