SHOP PRODUCTS
Houzz Logo Print
diytrying_gw

Please help with vinyl siding questions for contractor

diytrying
16 years ago

Have been getting quotes for vinyl siding. (Replacing peeling ugly style aluminum on top part of house and over garage, selling in a couple years.) The lowest is from a in-law's friend who owns a siding business. I guess he's used to them just taking his word for everything because the quote isn't very detailed and I haven't seen any samples of what he uses. I want to ask the right questions of him. Have been searching this forum and still have some questions if anyone is willing to help.

1)I think I see brands of siding people like: are there brands (or thicknesses) to stay away from?

2)What board length/width or does that depend on the brand?

3)I read soffits should be replaced with perforated soffit material and facsias with aluminum. Is anything else acceptable?

4)Don't know what is under the aluminum (house built in 1972). If it is felt paper or anything else, should it be replaced with Tyvec?

I have bookmarked some topics from this forum with general questions to ask a contractor but if anyone wants to give me more questions/answers, would love to have them.

Sorry for the long post. Thank you very much.

Comments (16)

  • candler
    16 years ago

    I'm having my house done, too. Less than an hour ago the contractor I'm using was here. I only need to resolve whether I want to use a heavier vinyl siding. I'll pass along my project with hopes it might give you a little more insight.

    I'm having my existing wood siding completely removed. Then the the house will be covered with sheets of 4'x8' by 1/2" thick styrofoam panels. This will go on the outside of the 4x8 sheets of felt board, which was standard insulation for my 1960's era house. I can see no reason to ever remove it.

    Some soffits have holes to allow air to flow into one's attic, and out the louvers, to keep heat from baking the roof (and maybe to keep the house a little cooler). My house did not have holes. He may cover the area with heavy screen looking vinyl material for comestic reasons. Glad you inquired. I'll have to ask.

    I like the Dutch lap siding a whole lot more than the plain. To me it gives a much better appearance and cost is the same either way.

    Board length is standard and cut by the contractor to fit. Most boards are double, one board above the other. Some are even triple. I have a sample panel on my desk. It is 9-1/2" wide making each "board" appear to be around 4-3/4". I understand that's pretty close to the standard.

    Variform and Royal Crest(royalsidingproducts.com)siding are the two I'm looking at. There's a couple of thicknesses in each style. The contractor says going beyond the norm doesn't allow for smooth seams. I'm may be going outside the norm and even beyond their two standards. I'm thinking about getting a much thicker one. It looks more like wood but seams will likely show more, and both material and labor will go up.

    If anyone has comments on what either of us have said I sure would like to read it. My decisions are not written in stone. I feel obligated to let the contractor know in a couple of days which direction I'm going. Thanks, Gene

  • rredogg
    16 years ago

    dirty,

    Take a look at the alside site. Not saying to go with their product but it will give you a couple of different looks to check out.
    http://www.alside.com/index.aspx?page=501

    Best of luck, rredogg

  • Related Discussions

    Need advice on questions for siding contractor

    Q

    Comments (3)
    That siding was called T1-11 and because most of it was not properly sealed and flashed it rotted. sierraeast gave you good advice. Another thing to think about now is the paint you will be using. Sherwin William's has a paint called Duration that is wonderful on hardiboard. I have heard of some people stating that their paint blisters on hardiboard on the South sides of their homes. My mother's painter recommended this paint and she was very impressed with the results. It is very thick that will not blister or peel. I have used it as well. It is more expensive than some other paints but I was happy with it. I had a problem with mold that destroyed my T1-11. I went with this paint once I had my siding repaired and I did not have any problems. Here is a link that might be useful: Paint info
    ...See More

    Vinyl siding color---HELP!

    Q

    Comments (7)
    Do you mean the horizontal siding is off, or are you referring to the garage doors? The folks over on the Decor forum often help in selecting house colors, so I'd cross post over there. When you post over there, include a closer photo of the front porch......is that brick? If so, I'd choose a color that compliments the brick. Below is a link to a recent discussion. It shows the difference paint color can make! Here is a link that might be useful: House paint
    ...See More

    question about replacing cedar siding before vinyl

    Q

    Comments (2)
    As a exterior contractor I wouldn't even allow it to be left on the house, and i doubt you would be able to sell the tear off for anything but firewood. PLEASE, do it right if your going to do it. Tear it off and put new house wrap or foam insulation on before you put your vinyl on. Seen to many jobs done wrong all at the cost of saving a $.
    ...See More

    Vinyl siding installation questions.

    Q

    Comments (31)
    Well, looking at what I can see, it looks like the siding stops right at the top of the cement part of the foundation all around the house. . In the front of the house there is about 4 inches between the siding and the ground, so I think that is ok given the existing slope of the ground. On the driveway side the block of the foundation is at the same height of the cement and the siding ends right where the block ends, there is no way to put space between the cement of the driveway and the top.of the foundation block. The other side of the house, where the contractor put the siding below grade, it looks like the cement part of the foundation is currently below grade. So not sure what we need to do. I'm not sure we can re -grade that side to slope away from the house. The building inspector is going to look at the siding when he comes out to approve the permits for the windows, so we'll see what he has to say about what has been done and hopefully tell us what we need to do. I appreciate all the input from everyone here because it helped me understand what I need to look for.
    ...See More
  • kec01
    16 years ago

    for an alternate view, take a look at this article...

    Here is a link that might be useful: real issues with vinyl siding

  • candler
    16 years ago

    Howdy, Folks. I made my last post February 21 and it's been decision making time ever since. If it means anything to whoever started this topic and/or is reading it I'll pass along the following.

    One morning I spent three hours searching the Net. I came up with all sorts of information. National Standard for thickness of vinyl siding is .035. Contractors try to use at least .040 to .042. Most contractors think thicker siding is better.

    I've decided on .046 almond color siding in a double 4" D-lap. It looks more like narrow boards. My facia, soffiting, and window and door trim will be in an off white color called linen. My horizontal gutters will also be linen color and my downspouts will be the same as the house color, almond. I've not yet decided on the shutter color.

    My old siding will be removed. I'll take out the nails and stack it. Half inch styrofoam panels will go up over the black board and the vinyl siding will go on afterwards.

    I've learned a lot in the past month or more. All in all my experience, so far, has not been that bad. The contractor says it will be a little over a month before he can begin.

    I'll be glad to share with you whatever I can to help you along in your process. Regards, Gene

  • diytrying
    Original Author
    16 years ago

    Thanks, rredog, for the site. Was helpful to play with colors and styles

    Thanks, candler for both your posts. Just now getting back to it myself (my guy couldn't start before spring anyway).
    Couple of questions for you if you don't mind. Are your soffits and facsias vinyl. Vinyl soffits are in my quote (doesn't say what facsias are). I read that they weren't very sturdy. I'd feel better if you had seen the quality and were comfortable with them because I may not have much of a choice.
    Have you seen or have a description of your gutters? Are they all seamless now? Have been having a lot of leaks lately around my brackets so I think I'm going to pay the extra and get new gutters. My description only says "with screw in bolt brackets". (That's also one of my questions for him.)
    My main question for him is to find out what brand he wants to use so I can find out the thickness and board style. Appreciate your input on that. I had also researched thicknesses but it's good to know the good and bad of thicker.
    Mine is only going on the second story above brick. I'm in a real quandry about how many colors I'm going to end up with. Are your vents going to be linen? I have all white trim now but really wanted to try to get away from that. But have a front porch with white aluminum ceiling that isn't going to be touched (can't really see it much). Don't know if any other trim colors (posts and such) will look good in a color and don't know whether to get gutters in a color. Also have two patio doors with white exterior. Going to try to load pic of house in computer and play with colors.
    Appreciate your input and printed both your posts to use when I talk to my guy.

  • bill_g_web
    16 years ago

    This is probably a non-issue, but you might ask about the possible importance of structural sheathing beneath the siding.

  • candler
    16 years ago

    Hello, All. Somewhere in my reading process it was said facia (is it fascia - sorry about that) and soffiting vinyl are manufacturered thicker than normal vinyl siding. I did considered it a non-issue but thanks to you I've written it down to ask the contractor. If I can get thicker I'll get it.

    Going back a long ways a roof's overhang wasn't often enclosed except maybe for some guttering on the edge. The exposed rafters sure were a good place for wasp and hornet nests. In the 50's or 60's contractors began covering the area. I doubt if the words facia and soffit had come into being before then.

    Facia board covers the edge of the roof rafters and runs the entire perimeter of one's house. Where needed guttering is nailed over the facia. Soffiting covers the area beneath the roof rafters from the facia edge to the house.

    A few years ago I built a house that was left open between the overhanging rafters. This allowed air to flow from the outside, into the attic, and on out the ridge vent. Air flow was primarily to retard hot weather damage to the roof, and it kept the house a little cooler. Being the rafters were open the soffiting was preforated to allowed air to flow but kept out bees.

    Where I now live was built in the mid 60's. It does not have opening between the rafters. My current soffiting is unpreforated plywood, so the vinyl soffiting without preforations will be okay.

    My guttering will be seamless and I highly suggest it. I've had and heard too many stories about seam problems with the 10' section stuff. But I suppose it may have depended on how well it was installed.

    I talked to a couple of my kids (I'm widowed) about colors. I told them I wanted a color "standard" that would be acceptable for a number of years. Please rememeber, this is for me and not a recommendation. I have white vinyl windows. They said the facia, soffit, window trim, and door trim should be close to the same color as the windows. They said from their observations of new developments that's generally the case. So, I chose that color a little off white, called linen.

    My downspouts will be the same color as the vinyl siding -almond. My guttering will be the same as the trim - linen. I know what you mean about getting away from the colors you have. At my age my vision is probably a little shorter than most of you readers. I'm doing more what might be acceptable to others whereas if I were younger I may or may not have other thoughts.

    Screw in bolt brackets for guttering is typical, I think. Sure is better than nail in. The brackets expand the width of the gutter with a screw going through them, through the vinyl facia, through the facia board, and into a rafter. I'm not familar with any other type of supports.

    I'll keep reading this topic for a while, Folks. I'm trying to gain enough knowledge to ask the contractor the right questions. Regards, Gene

  • diytrying
    Original Author
    16 years ago

    Hi
    Bill, if you check in again, could you clarify "structural sheathing"? Would that be something other than a flexible wrap like Tyvek? I talked to my contractor and asked him what he thought was under the present aluminum. He said probably tar paper. He is going to put "1/2 Dow styrofoam insulation" over that. I've had no moisture problems over the years so I'm assuming the paper under now is breathable. And the styrofoam is to add a smooth finish and some rigidity but doesn't breathe. Is that correct?
    Candler, sounds like we are similar. I'm a widow (also with not great eyesight). I'm trying to plan colors that would be acceptable for resale cause I won't be able to take care of this house by myself too many more years. I really depend on what I read here for help.
    As far as colors, I feel better in that he's using Certainteed and I already have a sample folder to look at. It's .044 so that concerns me a little for over the garage. The folder shows lots of white windows with contrasting trim and siding so sounds like you've got the right idea. My big quesion is coming up with combinations of siding, trim and paint that will work with the red brick bottom and front porch columns and windows.
    Thanks for the info on the thickness of the soffit and fascia (picked that spelling up from a previous poster, don't really know how to spell it - as long as we know what it is, right?) and the seamless gutters. I was just concerned I would be replacing sturdier aluminum with something flimsier. He's coming out next with gutter and siding samples so I can get more info. I'm actually starting to look forward to picking some things out. Thanks again for your help.

  • candler
    16 years ago

    Good morning, Folks - The contractor indicated fascia and soffit vinyl comes in only one thickness. I've not attempted to get more information.

    My 1/2" Styrofoam panels will have silver foil on one side. That would retard it "breathing", I'd think. I'm sure the blackboard siding beneath it does.

    I've selected louvered dark green shutters nothwithstanding that's the most common. I wish I'd had a larger choice. Seems I was stuck with either a dark brown, a dark burgandy, or the dark green. Everything else seemed a little light.

    The only brick at my house is half way up in the front (about 4' high). After all is done I may give thought to painting it. We'll see.

    The contractor said it would take about 1-1/2 weeks when he gets started. That may be in mid April. For whatever it's worth my price went up $700 by preferring the .046 thickness rather than the .040.

    Seems we're moving along doesn't it, DIY. I wish you well. I'll be interested in your progress and thoughts. I'll monitor this site in case you post something new. Gene

  • diytrying
    Original Author
    15 years ago

    Met with my contractor to finalize colors. He gave me a folder with samples for a .046 Certainteed, not the thinner I originally thought he was using and he had gutter samples. We went over the whole house again so I could be certain everything he was doing since I didn't see things like louver covers in his original quote. I'm also getting him to install gutter covers on the top gutters and paint around the whole house fan casing. Fortunately, a friend of ours (and his) is a painter and he said let him know the colors I chose because he has lots of paint that matches because they do work together sometimes. (Turns out his house and the contractor's are both done in the color I chose - Savannah Wicker.) My trim and gutters will be Light Maple or Summer Wheat, whichever is a better match. Much of my gutters run down the brick and the porch posts so I think they will look better in the lighter color. After it's finished, I believe I'll have to paint the front porch posts, and trim to match because it butts up to the fascia over the brick. Then I'll have white windows (old wood)and an white aluminum ceiling on the porch so I'm hoping that doesn't look too bad. I will probably keep my old black shutters cause they don't look bad and he said it'd be about $90 a pair to replace them. We'll see. I plan to be here the whole time he's working especially when they see what's under the existing siding and to see what shape the shutters come off in. Candler, seems we are on a parallel path...my guy is supposed to start next week. We've had so much rain though, I'm not sure. Good luck to you...

  • Katie S
    15 years ago

    The colors sound great-- that should look really nice!

  • candler
    15 years ago

    Hello, DIY, and Others. I've not been on THS in a good while as you can tell. I sort of run hot and cold. I like to read questions and answers about houses. I don't really have anything that keeps me doing whatever.

    I hope your project is going along just as you had planned. Everything you spoke of, from colors to materials, made very good sense. I hope the project is underway or finished.

    I've not heard from the contractor. Our last meeting was about the third week of March. He said he would get started by around mid April. I've not heard from him but plan to call him next week.

    As for materials or price nothing has changed, at least on my part. I'm a little surprised at his inaction. He's been a staple contractor in my area for thirty or more years. I think I knew some of his relatives.

    DIY, let me know how things are or have turned out. Thanks, Gene

  • diytrying
    Original Author
    15 years ago

    Hi Gene and others,
    Hope you've heard from your guy by now. I know you want to get going. My experience turned out to be great and we had perfect weather for the work. He did all kinds of extra things at little to no cost and kept me informed of the costs the whole time. He went $500 over his original estimate but that was before extra materials like gutter guards and not knowing how much my colored gutters would be. (Remember, he is a friend of my ILs, though, and probably afraid of my MIL!) The only thing I'm not totally crazy about is there's not quite enough contrast between my siding and the trim and that was my pick. I didn't want too much because of the busy look of the brick on the first level but I didn't get quite enough. Sounds like yours will be better.

    His crew finished in 6 days and he came back several time to perfect things himself. He came back today to pick up his last payment because it is raining and he wanted to make sure everything was working. For example, I had some downspouts awkwardly fitted into extra pipes, "trays", etc to lead the water further away from the house and into flower beds. He fitted the new downspouts into those perfectly so they look very neat. I have an added-on patio that the support posts/beams went into the old siding and the new couldn't be cut to go there without it looking terrible. He brought wood and had it cut to fit there (1/2 day's work) so now it blends in with the rest of the patio wood. He had to take down the patio cover (about 20 pieces) to work so he washed all that before he put it back up. Then he said, as long as he had plywood platform there, he'd wash all the windows on the outside! So, I was forced to clean inside! He installed gutter guards and screens in the downspouts and he painted my whole house fan vent to match the trim perfectly and he swept my driveway, patio and inside the garage where he had his tools stored! A couple of guys in his crew paint so they are going to give me an estimate on painting my porch trim to match. When that's done, I'll post pics... Good luck to you; I'll check back..

  • candler
    15 years ago

    Howdy, Folks. DIY, I'm very pleased the project was done to your satisfaction. I'm looking forward to seeing pictures.

    You offer a fine informative discussion of what's been accomplished. All in all, what you've said has been helpful. Being widowed sure limits "hashing" things out, doesn't it, DIY.

    The contractor said he will likely start next week. I can't say I'm really looking forward to it. I've never liked change. I'm looking down the road so the kids might get a better buck for the place. Or, it could be I may hit the road and get one of those car stickers saying I'm spending the children's inheritance.

    DIY, what size gutters did you have installed? I don't recall that I discussed it with the contractor. If he's doing the 4" I'm inclined to go with 6" even if it may costs a little more.

    A few weeks back I went around the house and took "before" pictures. I've a small digital camcorder and I might do a short movie, too.

    On taking down the lights just outside my doors I found my cedar shake-a-ply shingles are more brittle than expected. I had hopes of salvaging a lot of it for a resell. We'll see.

    I have five double flood light units under my eaves. I'm replacing the receptacles with white. They now make a florescent (sp>) flood light which doesn't get hot as my old ones. They consume a lot less electricity, too. I know halogen lights are brighter but for my purpose these will do just fine.

    Again, if you can post pictures please do. I might be asking down the road how I to do it also. Regards, Gene

  • diytrying
    Original Author
    15 years ago

    Hey Gene,
    Just a quick note....I got 4" gutters but the other day, it rained pretty hard for awhile and mine were full. Flowed nicely and didn't have any splashing but the downspout screens are new. Now I realize I'll have to clean those, esp in spring, more than I want to. 6" definitely sound better.....

    I primarily did mine for resale, also. I considered it the only big thing that really made the house look bad. My house is not all that great but, I really do like the way it looks so much better now.
    Good luck...

  • candler
    15 years ago

    Good Morning from Western N.C., All. I've picked up the outside flood light receptacles and bulbs. Wow, around $150. Didn't realize that. Oh, well. My others have lasted 43 years.

    DIY, I mentioned larger gutters to the contractor. He said they would look ugly. I went to a house that had the larger ones and he was right. He said the current standard for gutters are a little larger than what I have, and the down spouts will be larger, too.

    Today I'll examine entry light choices. With an almond siding one of the kids recommended black, a dark brown, or a "burned brass?". We'll see.

    With a 60's era ranch style there's not much else I can do for the exterior. They're starting Monday and today is Saturday. Maybe a new appearance will give me an incentive to try to create landscaping and afterwards maybe some inside painting. Maybe not.

    I imagine they'll install downspout screens. If the down spouts are large enough I may just ask them not to. I've never figured out why they have the screen where the gutter connects to the down spout anyway.

    I wish everyone a very nice life. Gene