NOOOOOO!

This is not what you want to apply over unfinished wood. It does not sink in and emphasize the grain, it sits on top and hides it. That's actually what its made for-- to replicate wood grain on non-porous surfaces [both finished wood and painted materials].

It can be wiped on textured [wood grain] masonite type doors in a way that leaves more color in the sunken areas. And it is useful to shift the color of an existing finish without stripping [though frankly, there are better ways]. The heavy body allows you to 'pull' lines of 'grain' with a course brush or wipe-off rag. It is far more difficult to use than real stain.

A normal stain like minwax or Cabbot will do a far better job. Just follow the instructions on the label, and once you have the color where you want it, apply a protective top coat in your choice of gloss.

I'd very strongly reccomend you aquire a few peices of wood or veneered ply of the same species as your cabs. Practice on them, learn how the stain will interact with the wood, and adjust your technique accordingly. Some stains are completely different on one species than the next.

A common beginner's mistake is to assume you are married to the color that comes out of the can. But colors from the same product family can usually be mixed [careful of Minwax' red mahogany and other shades can't be used with certain top coats-- better to leave them out of your DIY receipe], just measure and label carefully, dispose of any failed experiments appropriately.

You can also shift the final color by adding subesquent, thin layers of stain on top of your first. This is often an easier way of getting the color you want than messing with mixing liquid stains.

I'd reccomend against Polyshades or similar one step products-- they can yeild a good effect, but limits your ability to control the color.

But this is why you absolutely must practice on scrap wood before starting on your cab. You really can't choose a color based on the label or the dusty little sample boards down at the lumber yard.

Thanks for the info. I would have had a mess with the Gel stain. I will follow your advice and go with regular stain.

I would agree with oruboris in that it is critical to test the stain on samples to understand its effect. Some wood is very evenly grained and absorbs stain at a relatively equal rate. Other woods, including pine and cherry, are known for having heterogenous absorptive properties. Staining these woods can lead to a very blotchy looking finished product.

I suspect there may be differences in what is meant by a gel stain. I've built a number of pieces of furniture over the years. Some I've stained using a gel stain and perhaps it was the stain I used (minwax) but it did not hide the grain at all.

In addition to testing samples, I think you could bring a door to a local woodworker and get his/her opinions.

Hi,
I used Bartleys Gel stain on my oak cabinets. The stain was over "pore filler" so there was very even (no) penetration.
I also used gel stain on pine beadboard, to get the color the same as the century-old floor. Again, no problems, because I know what I'm doing. Sanding sealer would have the same effect as pore filler, making the stain more of a toner/glaze process. In that way, one has complete control and can wipe it all off and start over if need be.
Gel stain can be a handful if the conditions are not met. I once stained an oak floor with it. It took two guys, one to apply, one to wipe, because on large areas you cannot keep up with the drying.
Cabinets and beadboard with gel stain:

Casey