Thanks Gladys1924--always good to know first hand info-- I have looked for over two hours today trying to find a tub to fit where the shower is now but even if we give up the linen closet on that wall to gain more space (and maybe not be able to place it elsewhere) I don't think it is doable... Can someone recommend a website that explains the difficulties in relocating a drain for tub or toilet or shower that is in a concrete foundation? Or can anyone give an idea of the cost to do something like that--- might be worth 1K to really get an improved layout and use less expensive materials... I posted this question about giving up a tub and only having a shower in master bath on local website in my FL area and everyone that responded (many RE agents and flippers) were in favor of giving up the tub for nice shower... so I don't know that it would hurt resale value at all...

loves2read having an energy audit on the home you are proposing to purchase is an investment. not only for the cost of the audit, but also for the work that will become apparent once the inspection & testing is done. granted the rating information will be your information to choose when & what items you want to address, but for you at this time, a simpler request would be to ask for copies of utility bills & question the homeowner about temps set on tstats for a starting point. if the homeowner is moderate with temp settings & costs are high..then would be time for you to consider an audit..or keep looking. I won't get into all that I don't agree with in some of the responses..hey life is short!..but I will say that most HI's that I know don't check head pressures & wouldn't know a what a delta t was if it bit them..sadly the same goes for many hvac companies in my area. HI's for the most part work for the reality companies and are a bit biased so they can get the next job..again just my experience with HI's, few are independent--as in work exclusively for home owners. I am a big fan of zoned systems and while you may think that you would save $$ by stopping air supply to the upstairs areas, it really is best to allow some air flow & movement in these areas. setting tstat for minimal air flow is a better concept for our hot humid climates. If I were inspecting, testing & making recommendations for an existing home, these are some of the things I look for & recommend. upstairs areas..walls shared between 2nd floor and attic. insulated? sealed? using a foil/foam sheating board serves several purposes. one it adds an additional insulation value to the wall, two it reflects heat back into the attic instead of transferring it into the upstairs areas,and most ..stops air movement. radiant barriers can always be added, several products on the market, but what I have in my home is a one sided foil paper installed to the bottom of the rafters with the foil facing into the attic space. these two items will make a huge difference in comfort, and utility costs. stopping the excessive air infiltration will lower utility costs, although it will take time & effort on your part. a good hvac company can balance the air flow with a balometer ..fyi, I often use one myself on both new & existing homes, but that is getting more into home diagnostics than the rating service. a good energy audit will take 2 to 3 hours depending on the size & complexity of the home, and the compexity of what you require. my minimum charge on existing homes is $500. for a basic test & inspection. best of luck & if I can help to anwser any questions drop me an email, as I don't get here as often as in the past.

Love your bathroom! One more question about the Mendota, please. How do like its water depth? Do you guys use it to take baths or just showers? I'm back and forthe between the Mendota and the Bellwether. I wish, Iwish, I wish, there was someplace that carried both and I could just see and measure for myself. According to the Kohler provided specs: The 60 x 32 Bellwether is 15 1/2 inches high, and the water depth is 11 5/16. The 60 x 32 Mendota is slightly taller - 16 1/4 inches, but the water is 10 7/8. I'd prefer the Mendota because the Bellwether has that sloped front end which shortens the basin, so you get an extra 2 inches in the Mendota. I just don't know what to do.

Thank you all for the support with this drama. I need it. So this KD's list of changes say only this for the countertop: "MAKE ALL NECESSARY ADJUSTMENTS TO C/TOPS IN KITCHEN". So I wrote back, saying this leaves way too much open for interpretation. I would like specifics in writing, for both of our sakes and the builders'. Such as, the countertop overhang will be even throughout with up to 1/8th inch variance (now it's anywhere from 7/8ths to 1 3/8ths). And, the overhang will be a minimum of 1 1/4th inches, for example. Things we should have had in the first place, and what I wanted and requested, but they went ahead and did their own thing. Her response: "We will make adjustments as necessary. Please just let me take care of this, and I'm sure you'll be satisfied with the final results." What???!! I contacted the builder, who said, " I was assured they are addressing your concerns so we will move on to things we need to do at this time." The builder has been cc'd on the email exchange above, but has remained silent on whether they think it is a good idea for the countertop company to actually specify what they are going to do. kirkhall, countertops and cabinets are already paid for, unfortunately. If this wasn't through a builder, I never would have paid for work 100% in advance. Also, I asked for specs and design in advance, several times, and never got them. loves2read, we went through several of their houses early on, but none recently and I don't remember the countertops. I'm pretty sure if we asked now to go through a few houses, they'd know exactly what we were after. I've tried to find some pictures of laminate clipped corners online and was having some difficulties finding good pictures. So the way it is going is that the countertop people told the builder they would fix it, and the builder said "okay good", and that was that. I am the one asking for how exactly and specifically they plan to "fix" it. Autumn, I thought 1.5" was industry standard too, and I think it is for granite. Laminate though seems to vary, and some places really do 1", although that makes no sense to me and I don't think it looks very good w/ full overlay doors. I called Home Depot and they said usually they do 1" overhang-- 25 inch counters. So I fear I may be stuck with the 1" overhang if they do manage to make it even. I try to get everything in writing, but the agreement on 1.5" was verbal, and she is claiming she never said it now. Which is why I did request the design template, which she didn't give me. ANYWAY, I feel you Autumn all the way as I am very detail-oriented too. It is really hard for me as well to let go, and I am especially hard on myself when I think I picked the wrong thing or let something go that I wished I hadn't, ect. And you DO have a gorgeous house. :-) Isn't perfection the enemy of good? The pursuit of perfection is also the enemy of happiness, in my opinion. Though I do it anyway.... The builder has been really good about fixing other sub mistakes. It is this KD, who is in charge of cabinets and countertops, who I've had issues with since the beginning. The builder's manager, who is our primary contact point, seems to be pretty good friends with her. And there is the issue right there. And why my battle is probably a losing one. But just venting and having your empathetic "ears" has been so very helpful. Thank you so much.