Hi Dogbone10-- A few questions for you . . . First, is the 5 year warranty you are getting from your PB a special offer? I thought the ProEdge dealers warranty was only 3 years? I think you did the right thing going with the longer warranty on an existing pump. If you have read some of my other threads you will know this is why I will ultimately select one PB vs another. I just can't see spending so much for high-end equipment and fancy electronics only to have them fail in the first year . . . and if you know any one that has a pool it can happen. Since my pool will be for next season I am thinking I might have a chance. I don't think they will release it until January myself so as not to throw dealers into having to get up-to-speed, so to speak, until the off-season. Second, I am guessing you are referring to the fact that the pump might not be as quiet as some of the Pentair pumps. How far away did you place your equipment from the pool wall? How far is your run to the spa? I am thinking about going to the 26-50 foot range, but hope this won't hurt the spa operation. What size plumbing did your PB use on the Suction Side and also the Discharge Side? Third, I am thinking of requesting the same pump the 2 & 1/2 HP, is your part # SHPM 2.5 - 2? Here is a link that might be helpful: http://www.jandy-downloads.com/pdfs/pumprefguide.pdf Fourth, Can you please, please, help with information regarding your in-floor system as I am agonizing over this expense. What model Paramount system did you have installed. My one PB offers the current PCC200, but I do not know anyone who has this particular manufacturer's system, although I have seen much older pools (10+ that had working Paramount systems). It would be tremendously helpful to me to know if this was an upgrade to their circulation system that the PB might offer as standard or was it a total system add on? If I could get this system at a reasonable cost it would help me to finalize a decision to go forward with the pool at this time. If you would prefer to send more specifics directly, I set up a g-mail account so that I could corresponded with people on this site: NJFolks4@gmail.com. Fifth, would you mind sharing your other Jandy equipment choices of filter, heater, lights and automation and the size of your pool. Hope you don't mind me asking, but I am trying to coordinate what would be the best in some cases while not duplicating electronics, oh and energy efficiency to keep those bills down too. I have heard about horribly high gas bills for heating here in NJ. Wow, a lot of questions, so I hope this is not too much. THANKS for any help you are willing to provide.

Not all Pop Up systems are equal But in general, the VS-3050 is the better choice The SVRS has a lot more applications than as a replacement pool pump for older pools. New construction is one. Many places require an approved SVRS in place. The commercial sector isn't just water parks and swim clubs, but also health care facilities and hotels/motels with pools just to name a couple. The sensitivity of the pump is somewhat settable. It's rapid changes that trip it, such as the change between zones on some floor cleaning systems. Paramount has a transmission with bypasses that usually works fine. Without the bypasses in place, it does trip because the pump senses a dead headed condition between zone changes. Scott The controller recognizes the load characteristics on the motor during this situation but it doesn't know if it was on the suction or return side. It assumes it's on the suction side with a better safe than sorry shut down decision.

Chlorine, when energized, escapes the water and enters the atmosphere. This is off gassing. UV light from the sun will energize it. Cyanuric acid, aka CYA or stabilizer keeps the chlorine sort of busy so even if it does get some energy from the UV, it isn't enough to keep it from "playing" with the CYA in the water.This also can keep it from doing work though so having too much CYA prevents Free Chlorine. aka FC, from doing it's jobs of oxidation and killing biological pathogens. Generally speaking, you need about 5 to 7% of the ppm count of CYA for FC with salt cell equipped pools and 8 to 10% for all other forms of feeding chlorine to a pool. Too much CYA, and the elevated levels of FC are very difficult to make happen on a regular basis. If the CYA were 150 ppm, can you see trying to maintain a residual of 12 to 15 ppm? Drop the CYA to 30 ppm and 2 ppm of FC is much easier and costs less. Please note that salt cell equipped pools often have somewhat higher levels of CYA and FC to reduce the cell's ON time so it lasts longer. Generally, pools, when on, they either have a tablet feeder or tabs in the skimmer (generally not a good idea, BTW) or a salt cell which won't work without water moving. Pools get the most use during the day. Activity will cause some gas off too, in addition to the demands that sweat, tanning lotions, killing bio-badies, etc... place on the residual FC in the pool. These can deplete a pool pretty quickly if the FC isn't replenished as it's being used. You need to keep that residual FC in there. Running at night when nobody is there doesn't help the swimmers if it isn't there when they are. Without the UV of the sun, aka night, the FC stays put. The water is safe. I do recommend keeping the pump running whenever there are swimmers using the pool, day or night. Scott

Personally, I would not trust any tool from a manufacture that is trying to sell you a pump. That is why I developed my own spreadsheet using the data published by the California Energy Commission. The manufacture tools generally use gross approximations and tend to use unrealistic scenarios plus they don't show you how the calculations are done. You can download the CEC data yourself or you can download the spreadsheet below and do the analysis yourself. Unlike the manufactures web site tools, I built a completely transparent tool open for full review so I am not trying to hide anything from the user. But it really only takes simple math to prove the case of a two speed pump in some situations. Assuming decent plumbing and using the CEC data from Curve-C, a Whisperflo WFDS-24 will produce about 42 GPM @ 380 watts while an Intelliflo will produce about 30 GPM @ 140 watts for a difference of 240 watts. This may seem like a big difference but the money saved is not all that great. In a 15k pool and a turnover per day, the Whisperflo requires 357 minutes on low speed while the Inteliflo requires 500 minutes for the same turnover. So the Whisperflo uses 2.3 kwh/day and the Inteliflo uses 1.2 kwh/day or a difference of 1.1 kwh/day. Again, it sounds big until you apply the electrical rates. So if your electricity rate is $0.07/kwh to make up the $500 cost difference between the two pumps you would need about 6500 days (>200 months) of run time before the Intelliflo starts to be more cost effective than the Whisperflo. However, you can make the case for the Intelliflo by changing some of the assumptions. For example, if the electrical rate is $0.30 like in CA and the user was running two turnovers per day, then the Intelliflo will become more cost effective than the Whisperflo after only 750 days (25 months) which makes the Intelliflo the better choice. However, some POs need to run their pumps at higher speeds for part of the day to run cleaners and/or solar so that can diminish some of the benefit. Even though we have high electricity rates here in CA, I chose the two speed because much of time I run the pump at higher speeds for solar so the benefit of the VS was not as great for me. You can see my situation in Scenario 3 of the spreadsheet. I modified a 1 HP Northstar pump to create a 1/2 HP two speed pump but was able to do that for only $120 so it would be hard for any pump to beat that lifetime cost. Anyway, you can run all of these different scenarios using the spreadsheet. Here is a link that might be useful: Pump Cost Calculator