So you have the Broan 6" MD6T and you have it unfiltered, unconditioned, and ouputting under the fridge for conditioning purposes? So you are relying on the exhaust heat of the fridge to cool the incoming air? How cold did it get this past winter for you? How cold was that make up air? Detectable at all? Here we had -20 real feel in NY with the wind chill at times. It was brutally cold and cold often. I think I might have to put in a heated MUA. So update on Broan. The lady I spoke to today was completely useless. To make a long story short she had absolutely no idea how to use the Make Up Air Specifier on her site. It was quite pathetic and my impressions of Broan's customer service = suck. I spoke to Dean at Electro Industries at length about all the factors I'm thinking about. We went over two options - one using the MA-10 (10kw all in one 10" heater with damper, blower, filter, and current detector to control blower speed) and the less expensive heater unit EM-WX1025R. The broan MD6T comes with a 24volt 20VA transformer so I could then use the one signal to turn on both the Broan damper and the heater unit. Both options unit can accomodate up to 637cfm in a 50 degree temperature rise. It's a 10kW unit though and would require a 50A or 60A two pole (240V) breaker and its own dedicated lines (of course). I can take care of the electrical so no problem there but man I'm guessing my heating bill (which was astronimical last year) will be more than I can tolerate this year. Temperature Rise Needed/CFM EM-WX1025R 10000 Watts 80/395 70/452 60/527 50/632 40/790 30/1054 MA-10 $1917 + freight EM-WX1025R $800 + freight. I think that should be sufficient - it's better to have 50 degree air coming in than 0 degree air. I'm thinking that maybe I can get away with non-heated air if I can get fresh air to come up that old supply register near the range. The opening is closer than the fireplace but it might work if I put a blower in-line as well.

Unfortunately I think you have to delete it and make a new one. Hopefully you can copy paste your first post verbiage and pic into a new one and then delete this one. Sorry but I think it would get more attention that way!

Found this at the decorating forum - thanks!

Busy - Our original plan was to have cabinets built for the space above the cabs - but they were too squatty. (they are 42" uppers with 12" space between cab and ceiling) All new uppers were not in the budget (we also have another cabinet run that isn't shown in these photos — a wet bar) So, now we are simply using filler panels and crown. Homepro - unfortunately, we can't put an 8-ft door there. (well, I'm sure it can be done, but we won't do it - we are not DYIers - and we are already well above our budget with this project) We are painting the cabinets - so there won't be such a contrast between the cabs and the walls/door. Allison - I see what you mean about the door. That verandah photo does not have a door casing. I just looked at our door and it seems like a bigger job than we would like to tackle in order to deal with that (remove the trim). You can't just pop off the trim, as it's part of the whole doorway, if that makes sense. But I totally get it. Originally, we were going to tile the side walls - and decided against it (but that was due to the tile I had chosen, which has since changed). Now I'm undecided on tile. That will likely be another post. ;) Mtn - thank you. It's not that there is anything "wrong" with our kitchen. There are upgrades I want to make - especially appliances - as well as brighten up the space. The project morphed into something bigger than we originally intended.