I personally would not put wood-look materials adjacent to real wood. It may look like you were trying to fake it. I'd pick a medium tone color in whatever you choose because that will be easier to maintain and there will not be a sharp contrast with the wood floors nearby.

Ditto what Dianolo said. I think that would look pretty terrible. Your contractor's right that new wood can't exactly match old wood, but it can do a heck of a lot better job than porcelain tile can. Choose the same wood species as what's in your house already, use unfinished flooring so you can refinish all the floors at once, and it should look great. (If you choose prefinished wood it will never ever match--to make it look right you will have to refinish all three floors, i.e. finish the kitchen floor and refinish the other two, at the same time using the same stain and topcoat.)

The other problem with porcelain tile, regardless of what it looks like, is that it's very hard on your back. It's surprising what a difference the flooring surface makes to your comfort--you wouldn't think there would be that much difference between a hard surface (wood) and a super-hard one (porcelain or stone tile), but there really is. People with tile kitchen floors generally end up buying gel-filled mats to stand on while they prep, cook and clean up.

So basically I would recommend either using wood and refinishing all the floors so you get the best match possible, or using linoleum or vinyl in a color/pattern that contrasts with the wood instead of trying and failing to look like wood. If you feel absolutely compelled to use porcelain tile, get a style that contrasts with the wood (and get ready to buy some gel mats and leave them laying around your kitchen).

My vote would be for a mid-range grey tone such as slate to show off all those colors and compliment the metals. It sounds like the size of the room is on the large size so it wouldn't appear too heavy. I agree that the tile that 'looks like wood' would be a mistake - it really does not look like wood and reminds me of the butcher block formica counters and the laminated cabinet interiors circa 1974. It may be a current trend, just not my taste then, now or ever. We do use the fatigue mats at the sink and prep areas - glorious during baking season! Really, I'd be crooked and crippled without them. With such high-end appliances, I'd go with an equally impressive material beneath them.

Thank you! You guys are on the ball! Once everything is said and done, I'll post photos. Thank you again!

Well... I"m going to agree but disagree with the above posters. I don't think it would look right in your house next to the wood. That said, I have the porcelain tile that's a "wood look" and ADORE it. I didn't buy it to fake people out to look like wood; I bought it cause I like the tone, style, and look. Living in So. Florida, I've always had tile floors and maybe because I don't know any better, have never had back/knee problems or used a gel mat. Even so, I STILL don't think the floor would look right next to a dark wood floor. My tile is super easy to get clean, blends beautifully, and makes a real statement when you walk in the house. The house is tiny and all open, so we used the same floor throughout all areas except the bathrooms.

I agree that a gray toned tile would look fantastic. Just as a point of reference, here's my floor. We chose a lightish medium tone that my cab fronts blend into. In this small house, it looked better to us for a seamless low contrast look.

You can always run the new wood in the opposite direction from the old wood. Then, even if it doesn't match perfectly it won't matter.

But, you have to see what direction the joists are running first. They probably go perpendicular to the existing flooring, so if you install the new floor in the opposite direction it will be parallel with the joists, so you will need to add blocking between the joists to nail into. Or, you can always install it on the diagonal - it won't hit as many joists per plank (if 16" on center), but it will still hit enough and as long as you have a good 3/4" thick subfloor you'll be fine - just make sure they nail every 12" at least to make up for fewer joists per plank.