Interesting conversation. Although the first video was scary to watch, I watched it again and did notice the first house wasn't even completed which to me leads to the interview to be inconclusive. You can't compare a finished home to a new home under construction with just wood framing and then say the new home burned down, it just doesn't make sense or maybe I overlooked something. I don't have my house covered except for windows and roof but I do know it would burn down faster than my neighbours house which is 60+ years old because my home is essentially *naked* and I would have nothing left if both our homes were to have a fire. As for insurance, my insurance company hasn't asked anything about our trusses vs. traditional lumber so my premiums would remain the same. I was pretty concerned about this whole thing after reading it yesterday and called our city inspector (who's also a friend) and asked about the pros/cons and his response was "if new homes have this problem which he hadn't heard of, older homes have others you may not have such as old electrical issues so there's concerns about everything causing a fire in any type of home". Not trying to argue with anyone but essentially everything in our homes are a fire hazard that can bring down a house in a matter of minutes. As long as everyone is out safely, that's what we all have insurance for.

Sorry Houseful - I was away this weekend and I just saw that you had asked for pics... Now maybe we'll bet you hooked on this forum?!? (It's a wild and crazy bunch!!)

Piece of cake. I do encourage the use of a mesh cover to keep weight at a minimum. The weight concern, IMHO, would eliminate using a Merlin Smart Mesh as these covers are both heavy and have almost no stretchiness like a Loop Loc or Meyco brand cover. I'm not knocking the Merlin Smart Mesh. Its a fine cover but in this application, it isn't appropriate. I think Performance Covers has a similar model, I think it's the ProMesh grade and would be equally unsuitable. Put an automatic step pump on the deep end swimout's 1st step. I like the Rule 1800. The latest edition has improved water tightness, a low profile. and a 3 year warranty. This will keep the water level off the tile reliably. Please run the discharge end of the hose away from the house, walk ways, driveways, and down hill, away from the pool. The wall is too high for an "up and over" the wall cover. You would not have a warranty and a healthy snow load would prove problematic. Most quality manufacturers want there to be no more than 18" from the water line to the bottom of the cover. There is a solution, as long as the manufacturer can make it so there are no opposed snap hooks on strap lines. There must be a full sized spring on the other side opposite a snap hook to meet the ASTMI/ANSI standard for a "safety cover". Tile wall: Home Depot carries 1/2" tile and glass drill bits. Drill between tiles to form the initial cut into the tile edges. I would likely put them at the bottom of each of the blue accent tiles to keep them even and uniform looking. Then a 3/8" bit light hammer drill 2.5" into the gunite. Set the anchor, attach the removable eye bolt (but here I suggest they be left in), run the stainless cable, and attach the cover. As long as the tech has done raised surfaces before, this will be about as easy for him as it gets with wall anchors. The cable should be at least 3/16" thick but 1/4" is preferred and MUST be stainless. Dry laid Travertine deck: Core drilling 1" holes in the correct locations, then hammer drill a 3/4" hole inside the 1" through about 10 to 12 inches into the base material under the Travertine tiles. The cover manufacturers make a 15" aluminum pipes that hold an anchor and that is hammered into the 1" hole. I like to add a 2' long piece of #5 rebar for extra bite but it isn't required. Still a good idea, none the less. Use masonry collars. They will protect the deck from the steel installation and removal tool/pipe and look neater, effectively hiding the edge of the hole. They tarnish to a deep brown but won't corrode or stain the decking. If the curve of the wall prevents the placement of a spring being opposite a snap hook end, i.e. two snap hooks that are directly opposed, the manufacturer would label this as non-safe because it doesn't meet the ASTMI/ANSI standards for design requirements. That doesn't mean it wont hold a snow load or a person or last a long time! The use of two turn buckles on the cable ends, instead of the customary single, is suggested to provide the cable slack for initial connections and for tensioning later. Feel free to PM me if your builder's or the installers want to discuss these projects. These covers won't be cheap. The raised wall treatments, for example, from Loop Loc (I am a L/L dealer but the plug is not meant as such) are about $100 per linear foot of raised wall extra. The pipes for the deck anchor are an extra $15 and the core drill rental and extra bits will run another couple hundred. All told, it winds up adding up. I would expect Kate's pool to run about $6500 and barba's about $5000. They will keep accidents from happening, the number one reason for installing these covers. The neat appearance and durability, when compared to a tarp cover with water bags and the way leaves blow off are secondary but important bonuses. Scott

I just found your blog while doing my initial research on pool builder (found it in your Yelp review). I loved reading about your experience and seeing the pics along the way! Thank you so much for the wonderful insight. I have to say that your pool installation has made me so excited to pull the trigger on our own, and now when I need a break at work, I go to your blog -- my new "Happy Place".