Freeform vs. rectangular pool
15 years ago
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- 15 years ago
- 15 years ago
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Pool size actual vs plan
Comments (20)Hey folks, Thanks for all the feedback. I pretty much knew the answer when I posted, but just wanted some feedback. The pool is absolutely beautiful... very nice workmanship, very thick flagstone vs what I have seen in other pools, and the spa is very, very nice. That said, I couldn't help but feeling like I wasn't getting what I paid for when I posted this initial thread. I really like the pool builder and have seen much of their work and talked with personal friends before making the selection. Smaller company, not a national or even regional company... local guys. Followed back up with the PB and that turned out to be a mistake. Won't get into details, but severely offended them and after a very smooth process to this point, including all payments on schedule, they said they won't finish the pool unless I pay everything up front now. I guess concerned that I would short them on the last payment due to the spa issues. PB said that I am blowing it way out of porportion and nothing is exact. Easily could be 4 inches off on one side and the other and my expecations were totally unrealistic. Needless to say, it has been a rough few days. PB backed off on the statement that they will not finish the pool, and things are progressing back to terms of the contract. No real resolution other than that... a little disappointing, but as I said, it is a very nice pool and they have really done a great job to this point...except for the obvious. I guess I am a bit anal on all this... yes, I pulled out my tape measure and measured a number of key things including width, decking (where I found another small problem... 1 foot short in an area... but caught it before poured). Guess I am just a difficult customer. Heck, I measured my LCD when I got it home too... I figure if I am paying mid 5 figures, I have the right... and even the responsibility to get comfortable with what I am paying for. It wasn't anything personal at all... just my nature I guess. At any rate, at this point, it looks like we will have a fabulous looking and solidly built pool with a beautiful 6' 3" spa rather than a 7'. A little bummed, but I'll get over it. Thanks for all the posts. Regards....See MoreFew Decisions: Salt vs No Salt, Infloor vs Non Infloor
Comments (13)mudn...yes..ours is a PV3 system. There are 3 different heads that can be installed in each opening in the pool floor (small, medium and large). The only differnce in each head is the opening, all other dimensions of the head are identical. The small heads (small openings) are for steps and other more complicated features under water. These areas are engineered to have a higher concentration of heads to get the hard to clean nooks and cranny's present in these more complex features. The smaller heads have a lighter jet action and are also good for placement near the perimeter of the pool in shallow water to prevent splashing when the head is blasting right at the perimeter of the pool. The larger heads (larger holes) are for cleaning larger areas and allow more water to exit and creates a stronger jet. These are typically found in the deeper ends of the pool where there are large flat surfaces to clean. The medium heads are for heads near the perimeter of the pool in deeper water and for areas of the pool that may have more curvature and slopes. Paramount will get a design of your pool from your PB. They will then engineer the floor cleaning system by specifying location and size of each head in each zone. There's typically 6 zones in their design and this is determined by the 6 port valve that comes with the Paramount system. More zones are possible by placing more than one multi-port valve in the system. This is usually for larger pools and most pools only have one multi-port valve and it will be 6 zones. Paramount will look at the shape of the pool floor and shapes of the perimeter as well as depths, steps, beaches, tanning ledges and determine the proper location for each head in each zone. They will also specify the size of head for each location. This is all on one print and I would ask you PB for this print once it is complete. After the rough plumbing is complete, I verified each head location with a tape measure and had their locations changed accordingly on a few heads. After gunite, I then inspected each head location and looked at how it would be projecting it's jet to see if it would reach the places it was intended knowing what size each head was to be in the end. This was an important inspection because we had a step added near our beach during gunite that was not on the original plan. We also added a grotto bench in front of our waterfall which was not on the original plan. Both of these additions required a change to the specified head locations and sizes. The modified plan was sent to Paramount and they recommended new head locations based on the new features that were added. This involved chiseling out channels in two areas of the gunite and adding a few more head to reach these new places. Morale of the story, if you make any changes during gunite, which I understand is pretty common, make sure Paramount has an opportunity to review the changes and make the necessary updates to their engineered system. This will require a litte extra work with chiseling and such, but the end result will be a floor system that performs as it was designed. Finally, during start-up, the start-up person will be the one who installs the heads into each opening by swimming to each opening in the pool floor. Make sure you have the blue print with you at this time. This is when the right head size gets placed into the proper location. My start-up guy said he has been doing it so long he can tell which size goes in each hole just by looking at it. He was surprised by some of the sizes that were called out on the print when I was telling him which size went in each hole. After all that, adjust the pressure being delivered to the cleaning zones to about 18-22 psi recommended by Paramount(some zones will be different than others because of different size holes in each of the heads of that zone). There is a gage at the top of the multi-port valve to tell what the pressure is. I had a bypass valve installed upstream of the multi-port valve to allow the pressure to be adjusted for optimum performance and efficiency. The MDX drain will be plumbed in parallel with the skimmer and SDX drain. You will be able to balance the flow between skimmer and drains by closing or opening the port in the skimmer. Closing the skimmer port will cause more suction at the drains and less flow at the skimmer. After a few weeks you will find a sweet spot allowing the skimmer to do its job as well as the main drain suction to be adequate to suck in debris that is passing near it. I run our system at high speed (18-22 psi at the multi-port valve) for 2 hours per day to ensure each head has made a complete revolution with proper jet action to do its cleaning job. This also provides good skimming action. The rest of the day is spent at low speed cycling the heads and delivering clean, chlorinated and sometimes heated pool water to the floor of the pool. Well that was a long explanation..maybe too long...but wanted to share my experience with installation and setup of the Paramount PV3 system for those who may be considering one. We've been happy with it's performance and haven't had any problems or maintence items for 4 swim seasons now. It just does it job without being seen. The appearance of the pool is always clean without unsightly hoses and cleaners in the pool. Everyone always comments "How do you keep your pool so clean" Hope this helps!...See Morepool questions (and answers): friend vs contractor
Comments (2)Where are you located roughly? Here in NJ, I am not a big fan of automatic covers. the things that can go wrong with them outweigh, at least in my opinion, the positives. Yes, they can, when used on a daily basis, improve safety and reduce chemical and heating costs but on the negative side, the mechanisms can break, leaving a cover 1/2 rolled up, often aren't configured for use with salt cells, cost plenty when the cover fabric needs to be replaced periodically (average life is less than 10 years), and aren't as strong as most safety covers used for Winter. The chemical usage isn't that big a cost, certainly not enough to justify it. Heat can be saved with a solar cover at night for a lot less. Automatic covers can have snow loads play merry hell on tracks and cover material. Rain will carry debris into the coffin and clog its drain. Unpumped rain will seriously wear the spooling mechanism because of the weight so an automatic pump needs to be set. A hole in the cover will let pool water out. You still need a fence for the yard. There are added installation costs such as stainless hardware and extra bonding needed when a salt cell is used. The costs will vary with the size and shape of the pool. Here in the Northeast, plastering, regardless of the material used, is best done in the Spring. The cement used hydrates, raising the pH. Left unmonitored over the Winter, scale is far more likely to form. The more time you have to monitor it, the better. This process slows with time so the more time you have to monitor it, the better. The Sun provides all the UV you will need with an outdoor pool. Adding it to the return flow is more money in their pocket only. Nothing reduces the amount of free chlorine needed in the water. You can only augment it. Chlorine kills everything. Yes, there are a couple things that can take some time but residential outdoor pools have such a small risk of being contaminated, it doesn't make sense. Large, public indoor facilities and water supplies are at a greater risk because of the lack of exposure to the Sun. UV cannot be used as a primary sanitizer. It doesn't leave a residual in the pool which is where its needed. Go with the MasterTemp 400HD. Its just bulletproof, unlike the Raypak. I prefer the Quad series of filters over the FNS Plus series. They are typically a bit larger and easier to clean. All finishes use cement to bind. A big part of cement is calcium. Water can draw calcium out from the cement. The less cement exposed, the longer the finish lasts. Plaster dust also has calcium. It tends to be softer too. Quartz can improve things but is dependent on how much is used in the mix. Pebble finishes tend to have the aggregates more exposed and thus last the longest. Compaction needs are dependent on the type of pool and construction method used. Six inch lifts are expected usually. Scott...See MoreFree form Pool Coping Square Edge vs. Round Edge
Comments (3)I can't speak for pre-cast concrete, but we have a pool with natural stone coping which obviously can't have a rounded edge. It is free form, too, and the chiseled edge looks great, so I don't think the aesthetics of straight vs round should concern you. As for leaning your neck on it, I would say the amount of time people use the spa vs the amount of time people spend hanging out by the pool at the fire pit pales by comparison, and the way it will feel wouldn't be my first consideration but rather the way it will look....See More- 15 years ago
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