Thanks for the replies! Here's another example of the before/after of what I'm trying to do - although my staircase is open on the entire side where the "kneewall" needs to be cut down (like the first link above) versus just 5 stairs. http://www.mitrecontracting.com/stairway-remodel.html. I did find out that they do plan to just cut down the kneewall and put the new treads over the "newly exposed stringer" (from estimate). The estimate is just about half of what the full replacement quotes. One of the other estimates says: "Remove existing stair & rail systems, stair back. Cut access hole to get under lower section if needed and cut down existing rake wall and install new [list of new stair info, including stringers, treads, risers, etc.]. Here is a link that might be useful: Before/After Example

Thanks for replies. Well this guy says he only sells wood but found another guy who sells and installs hardwood. This new guy says he's an Armstrong dealer so he only has Armstrong woods. He said he ordered a lot of them and has extra and returning them would cost him 15% restocking fee so he wants to give them away with very little margin. He doesn't have all the wood that Armstrong offers but only around 6 or 7 models like 3" Gunstock, some dark 5" hardwood and few engineered 5". He doesn't have the EHS5301SL that I mentioned but has similar wood in little darker color. If I buy wood from another person, his installation will go up. So I'm limited on the choices but probably getting good deal. Warranty is 1 year on labor and 15 or something years on material from Armstrong. I haven't checked him being Armstrong dealer papers but will do that once I decide to do the work. Oh, he also said that if the subfloor is not leveled, each area will cost $50 prep work. Hmm.... This post was edited by Yogiman2003 on Mon, Oct 28, 13 at 14:21

ok, this is an area where I actually know something! I sold and spec'ed hardwood for a custom shop before my mommy-life. The information you are getting here is correct. Engineered floors will give you 1-2 refinishings ON A PERFECT SUBFLOOR. One of the issues that sometimes arises if there are inconsistanies in the height of your subfloor. Because there is thinner wood wearlayer (before you get to the engineered wood) there is the chance that you can damage the floor irreparably when you sand it. Now I only saw this saw this happen twice, once on a loft job and once in an older home. The loft was more subtle as it was over concrete, the old house more obvious as they were DIYers and picked engineered flooring to try to negate their irregular subfloor (they neglected to tell us that that was why they chose engineered, we would have talked them out of it had we seen the floor first) Neither of their claims to the manufacturer were fully settled because both times they did not follow the guidelines for floor prep. The loft job was also a materials only job for us with their GC laying the floors but he insisted he knew what he was doing. A good engineered floor will not be cheaper than most of your nail down options because the production costs are higher. Now having said that, GOOD engineered floors certainly have their place in places where you can't put traditional hardwood due to height restrictions or concrete subfloors. My boss had a great engineered floor in his basement and it survived a flood remarkably well (it was ash, Kahrs brand out of Scandinavia and one of the beefier engineered floors and one of the pioneers) My Grandmother also had a Kahrs floor in her ground suite condo and she LOVED it and I was impressed by the milling. I'm considering it for our basement because it's warmer and less echo-y than laminate There has been a lot of 2nd rate engineered flooring coming out of China and being labeled for all sorts of different companies. You should be able to tell an engineered sample because the layers are sandwiched together and the tongue will be a different wood than the top (showing) layer. Distressed finishes are usually more expensive because of the extra step in manufacturing to make it distressed. That is different than just getting a lower grade of hardwood like a rustic or tavern grade (in solid hardwood). Those grades have more character but they often don't carry a warranty and generally have a higher waste percentage. Another thing to think about---if you ever have to replace part of the floor, you will always be able to replicate 3/4" thick hardwood but engineered floors are more like tile, they change and get discontinued over the years. You could go pre-finished, save the hassle of site finishing but with the thicker wear-layer a 3/4" nail down floor offers. Only you will know if you can handle beveling or not. The changes in milling the last 10 years are huge. The bevel in your better milled wood is tiny. I like Canadian mills, Model or Mirage for pre-finished. Remember that if you ever re-finish, the bevel will disappear and you will, essentially have a site finished floor. One benefit that many people don't know about? With a prefinished tongue and grooved floor you can have a good installer cut out a single board (or more) from your floor if it gets damaged which is why we did a fair bit of pre-finished in new homes since inevitably we would get call-backs at move in to repair trade damage (@#$%^ plumbers and their big wrenches!). Prefinished hardwood deals the best with shinkage and expansion issues because the finish is on individual boards. Site finished floors are more labor intensive but the materials are cheaper (apples to apples). They are what many people consider the gold standard however there are more steps and you don't always know how it's going to look until it's done. There is more chance of finish contamination and trade damage during the rest of the building process. We refinished 100 year old floors. I loved the idea that there wasn't 4 generations of carpet and crap in the landfill. Definitely a forever floor and it can usually be re-sanded for all but the very worst water damage (think entire house under water for a few days) If you are going with a wide plank, keep in mind your species and humidity level (and your ability to keep humidity stable). The wider the plank (with 3/4" thick flooring), the more obvious shrinking and expanding will be. If you take a 2" wide board and it shrinks 2%, it isn't very noticeable. If you take a 6" wide board and it shrinks 2% the gaping will be more noticeable and in the case of a site finished floor *could* pull your finish apart. You'll need to find a flooring contractor in your area with lots of experience. Most of the best hardwood shops ONLY do hardwood. Beware of carpet shops and many of the big box stores in many instances. Make sure they are accredited with the NWFA (national wood flooring association) http://www.nwfa.org/member/ good luck!

I've thought about both those things, but both are going to be expensive, either in immediate construction costs or long-term electric bills. I was hoping to find someone who'd actually tried this or had some scientific information about the insulation properties of wood vs carpet+pad. Edit: More googling found these 2 sites... http://www.houseneeds.com/learning-center/pex-tubing-radiant-floor-heating/flooring-r-value-different-materials http://www.radiantprofessionalsalliance.org/Pages/FloorCoveringR-ValueChart.aspx So while hardwood and carpet+pad have dissimilar R-values, that difference seems pretty negligible compared to the total R value of the underlying plywood, insulation (either R-19 or R-30), and sheetrock of the garage ceiling. I think that while a hardwood floor will feel colder, the room itself shouldn't be any colder. Thoughts?