We have evaluated the some of the benefits and construction issues of the pipe proposal. Now I would suggest advertaddy investigate the possibility of surface drainage. Some reasonably accurate elevation data will be needed to prove the viability. To do what I propose, he will need some materials; a few 2ft stakes, a nylon string line, and a string level. A string level is not a precision instrument and I am not fond of their use where accuracy is needed. But for short distances, and for this case particularly, I think the careful use of a string level will be sufficient. Rather than collect useful data over the whole of the project area, this preliminary study will be concentrated on only the critical grade points. In the graphic above I show the location of a string line that can be used to gather the information needed. Begin at point C by locating a space between fence boards that aligns with the back 6 inches of the patio. At the space between boards drive a wood screw about 1ft above ground level. Tie on a string line and stretch it out toward point B. Select a location for a stake at point "B such that the string passes over the patio near the back edge and also aligns with the jog in the house as shown. Attach the string level at the mid point between B and C. Stretch the string tight and tie to stake B with a loop. Adjust the string height at stake B so that the string level indicates the string is level. Install stakes at A and D. Extend string lines to the end stakes in a like manner with all lines at the same level. Measure the horizontal distance for each line segment. Begin at stake A. Measure the ground to string distance. Move 5 ft down the line toward B and take another measurement. Continue this process until you are near B. Begin anew at B and start the 5 ft intervals from there. Do the same at C and make a last measurement at D Record the measurements in this fashion A-? +5-? +10-? B-? +5 -? +10 -? +15 -? To correct the details of the base map, take measurements as shown in blue.

Thank you for the response so far. I am new to all of this... but basically the house faces in a SE direction so the side of the house is a South to south west direction. The downspout dumps out about 2 feet from the property line and when there is heave rainfall it runs towards the front of the lot along the property line. This water is joined by the water that is dumped from the sump. During July we were very fortunate(uncharacteristically sp?) to get a lot of rainfall and my property line had roughly 2 inches of standing water when you stepped in the ground around the downspout and sump pump discharge area. When its relatively dry out there is no standing water but the ground is moist. No matter what route I go I will be running a rock type bed from the pump towards the front of the house I think. This will divert any major rainfall from causing problems on my neighbors property, plus he has a significantly higher grade than I do. My rambling is done I think. This is kind of like a thinking out loud session. Thank you everyone. Now I need to find a "Rainfall" rock scape concept to build around the sump pump discharge pipe. IF anyone see's something similar to this let me know and grab some pics please.

I am a pool builder myself and after reviewing your quote I would say it is a very fair price. Considering the waterfall, upgraded systems (pump, controls, lights) and sprinkler repairs (which can easily add $1500.00) you should be fine with this bid. I would get at least 3 bids for any project, and compare apples to apples "where possible". Ask for recent and past referrals as well. Even go look at a couple of the builders jobs, something other than just pictures ! And when it is all said and done see if the builders sales rep will also be on the job site, we do not have salesmen ourselves . . . the person selling the pool, "builds the pool". We are designer / builders and find that our clients enjoy knowing that! Enjoy your new pool !! Here is a link that might be useful: Blue Lagoon Pools

Ah this is what I had imagined First things first, I suggest you up your pipe size for the supply to the filter and YOU WILL HAVE TO for the GRAVITY feed from the filter to the waterfall. The pump should take up to 40mm hose, NOTE hozelock hoses tails are metric in OD with an imperial 1.5"BSP thread. A lot of hose is still imperial, up to 1" metric=imperial but 32mm=1.26" and 40mm=1.57". Fitting 1.25" hose onto a 32mm is a wee bit of a struggle but 1.5" hose on a 40mm hosetail is a swearing match, it can be done and is best done by getting a piece of 40mm pushfit PIPE, not hose, and filing a 1 in 10 or 1 in 15 taper on one end right down to the bore of the pipe. Heat the hose with a hairdryer, £5 from argos, and twist the hose onto the pipe, the diagram below shows how to twist the pipe and hose so that the helix of the hose opens as they are twisted, if your helix is the other hand than swap the directions of rotation a little bit of plumbers silicon grease high up the taper will help. Once the hose is well on the pipe let it sit for a while to take a set. Cut of the smaller unused hosetails and file a slight taper on the hozelock hosetail. Take the pipe out using the same twisting action and fit the hose over the hose tail. Alternatively buy an Oase aquamax hose tail as that should fit. I normally use a Hozelock hose tail on an aquamax pump. Why do I say up your hose size, small bore pipe has a high resistance to flow. I have a hose "pipe loss" chart presumably form hozelock as it in metric It quotes the following losses for 25mm/1" hose 1591lph 5 cm per metre of hose 2273lph 10cm per metre of hose 2386lph 11cm per metre of hose???? 3409lph 21cm per metre of hose for 32mm hose 3409lph generates 7cm per metre of hose and 40mm hose generates about 3cm per metre of hose. I guess you know what follows but I include it for 'completeness'. The pump sees the friction as added lift and that cuts down the flowrat, you are paying for the wasted energy via your electricty bill. It is up to you whether you up the supply side but the return is a different kettle of fish, the head that pushes water from the filter to the fall is the drop in water level from the surface inside the filter to the surface over the water fall and that is finite. The hose connecting the filter and the fall isnt bothered by whether the flow is pumped or gravity driven, its resistance will be the same as listed above. So, say you have 8 ft of 1" hose and a flow rate of 2273lph you would require the level inside the filter to be 1.6ft, 19.2", above the level over the fall and at a guess more because that will be into the media which its self will add slightly to the required head. For you information, I am setting the plant pond up with a filter system, that will have gravity feed to a...