I like the idea of the craigslist stove and swap later. I tend to get very frustrated on things like this. But alas I'm trying to work the system properly to succeed. I will happily let you know the town, just give me a few weeks to get it all resolved. I don't want us to be bad mouthing my inspector while I'm still trying to get it done. It's a suburban Boston town just on 128 near rt 2. Thing about the inspector is that I respect the guy for trying to make sure all is safe but auto ons and grease clear outs on ductwork and the wanting my MUA install validated by building sciences energy raters has all come back ok, but at the end of the day he just has a nasty gut reaction I think to a really big btu stove in a residence and all the conundrums that come with it. Trevor I will give you a call, you and Eurostoves have been great but I haven't engaged you with this issue yet because I didn't want to be too much of a bother, but seems like it's time to get some reinforcements.

bev first off, good job on your air sealing. that is a very important first step of any enclosure, and like you implied with your builder, most builders tend to not care of understand the importance of it. A few months ago I co-presented an energy seminar and changes between IECC 2009 and 2012 and expectations of code enforcement to a large group of local builders. The responses were ridiculous. So many eyes rolled, snickers, etc. out of the group. That was, until I of course mentioned it can put more money in their pocket if they encourage home owners to upgrade and that qualifies builders for tax credits in some cases. Many are set in their ways and changing with the times are not always easy. Why a builder would not want to deliver the best product for their client has always amazed me, so I am around what you describe nearly daily. But since your original response focused on batt install, I wanted to point out the importance of that minor compared to the air sealing. I also pointed out batt as a sub par insulating method with other options on the market. Insulating is typically 3% or less of a total build depending on what kind is used. The interesting thing about this is a granite counter installation can be higher than this. How does this make sense? My efforts are to point out other options owners should ask about with their builders or in general. More focus (IMO) should be put forth to increase the values of the exterior shell. It is typically worth it depending on what methods are used. You mention batts can obtain max insulating ability if installed correctly. Yes, this is true of course. However the difference between a so so install and a perfect install (impossible btw) is r1 -2 at best. The difference between a so so install of batts and a blown fiberglass for example can be pushing r5 or better. I also never mentioned the use of expanding foams as a wall insulation. As you mention, they have high upfront costs, and the value in a wall is typically not there if other air sealing methods are used that cost a lot less. The r value of open cell is less than blown fiberglass, and nothing is done to reduce thermal bridging. (in either in all fairness). You can see in most any of my posts on here I recommend not using expanding foams for walls and sometimes roofs, although it can be more warranted (I used some myself in my build in a vaulted ceiling space for a ventless design). But what a lot of people (and builders!!) don't realize is as insulation and air sealing values get better, than other things can be decreased such as mechanical equipment. Properly sized equipment can, in many cases, be reduced enough to offset added costs of sealing and insulation, leaving you with lower utility costs for the life of the home, and a net wash of upfront costs. I have a few homes where this proves to be true. A while ago I did a 3500 sqft house in zone 6 where we used 2" exterior foam sheathing, extensive air sealing and an exterior air barrier plane (used as zip sheathing) with blown fiberglass insulation. The whole wall r value of the wall was only around r26, and the ceiling was blown fiberglass at an r 60 with triple pane windows. The base price of the insulation included code min of r49 attic, code min air sealing, and r19 batts (no exterior foam). The upgrades added about $3500 to project, but then we ran detailed load calcs for the mechanical. It was determined that a "typical" furnace an ac would have been about 70k btu heating and 4 tons cooling. With the current design, a 30kbtu furnace and 2 tons of cooling is all that is needed, thus reducing the mechanical equipment by 1500 right there. Then since the shell is tight and higher r value mixed with triple pane windows, this also means ducting can be reduced and does not need to go to an exterior wall or window like is typically done. This had further cost savings, but also made for shorter runs of duct which increased heating and cooling efficiencies even more. The costs savings on mechanical was close to the 3500 upgrades. But in this area, the utility companies offer good rebates which added up to be 4k that this house now qualified for that previously did not with code min construction. The end result is a net cost of nearly -4k in upfront cost. Now that it is complete, we are collecting utility bills. 90 degree temps with high humidity is running the owner about $40 a month of run the ac for 3500 sqft. Their total bill was about $60 for all power for the home and taxes. These things are not that hard, and in the whole picture of a 300+k house cost, is a very small upgrade that is one of the only areas that has a pay off in the house. //derailed rant over While a thread derailment, you bringing up insulation inspections/pre insulation is important and many times missed or homeowners do not understand the importance of it. Obviously its not the home owners responsibility to make sure the GC does it correctly, but it is something worth mentioning in the thread to make sure its looked into. Ontario- Dense pack cellulose used to be the main way to fill a wall with a blown product. They have wet blown products which adds water or glues to the cellulose and its shot on the wall and then "mowed" off with a machine called a scrubber. This shaves the cellulose to be perfectly flush with the face of the studs. This method is good because it allows you to easily see areas not completely filled. Dense packing involves installing a tight netting over the studs and then blowing the insulation in to a density of around 3.5 lbs. This density prevents settling in the walls. Cellulose gives you an r value of around 3.8/inch (batts is typically around 3.5) and its actually a 3.8. (batts, as I mentioned above would be more around 3 or less after install). Blown fiberglass in installed the same way, but contractors around here prefer it since its easier for them to do and cleaner. The product itself typically costs slightly more than cellulose, however install is reduced so most charge the same for either around here. Blown fiberglass can be packed denser and can hit r values of 4 or even slightly higher to around 4.2. This is what I typically use for walls and ceilings. One of the pros of cellulose is the ability to hold moisture and release it to dry in a wall of ceiling. Many view this as a pro, I see it more of a con. Both can deal with vapors passing through a wall, but if you have a leak, cellulose can absorb it and hold it for a while before its known. Fiberglass water runs right through it so a leak is known sooner. I experienced this first hand with my own home when it was under construction. Upgrades over batts depends on your location, but around here its a small upgrade. 2x6 install is typically around $.90-1.00 per sqft of wall space for the install. In comparison, open cell foam is around $1.50 an closed cell is about $1/inch making it around $3. (higher r per inch means less thickness to closed cell to hit same r values). Head to Youtube and watch videos of installing cellulose and fiberglass. This is not a DIY job since you need to make sure the density is correct.

earthworm, there is BOCA (national code), ICC (international code) state code, city code, residential code, commercial code, etc., etc. Within those disciplines there are specialties, such as structure, electrical, plumbing, etc. In addition, each town can add code requirements of their own. It is not possible in any way, shape matter or form for any one person to have all of this knowledge and be licensed in all do these disciplines for every town and city in his/her state. One would need a team of "code inspectors", who would need at least a couple of days if not more, and which would cost a fortune, and relegate a home inspection to being a luxury only for the wealthy...IF a seller would even allow such an inspection. Last but not least, regardless of how much code someone may know, they still can't see through walls...which is the ONLY way to know what code violations lurk within. It is only when those systems malfunction that a problem becomes known....and a problem can only become known if the system is used. That is why a home inspection is only truly meaningful after the house has been used as a home. Hence the title HOME inspection...not "HOUSE" inspection. A home inspection performed properly coupled with a comprehensive report provides far more info than most home buyers could ever learn on their own...for a price that is extremely affordable.

The local building official generally will require site inspections of all of the major components, including; the footing, foundation, building framing, electrical, mechanical and plumbing. I have never see problems with these items in new construction. The building official will not inspect items such as siding and shingle installation or interior finish work. Most general contractors hire subcontractors for the majority of the work and do not adequately supervise their subcontractors. I routinely report significant defects on new construction. Most of the items are related to flashing and siding/cladding installation. The installation of siding, roofing and flashing details are specified by the manufacturer and must be followed to insure performance of the material. Materials that are not installed to manufacturers specifications have the potential to fail. If the product fails and was not properly installed, your warranty generally will be void. Most new stone veneer I see is not properly flashed and is a major problem waiting to happen. I also frequently see LP Smart Side and fiber cement siding with improper spacing and flashing at the butt joints and cut edges that are not painted and primed. Another major culprit is the finish grade is often times too close to or touching these materials, which will eventually lead to rot/deterioration.