The only reason you might want a shortened blacksplash is if you are very short...but there are drawbacks. Your KD's comments sound, to me, like she's trying to cover her you-know-what b/c of mistakes she made and she's hoping she can convince you to not make her do it right. 18" vs 16" (or anything The standard is 18"...regardless of the reasons why, it's still the standard.. How this affects your kitchen.... Refrigerator and other tall cabinet heights...Because wall cabinets are meant to be mounted at a standard height, cabinet manufacturers take this into account when designing tall cabinets. Tall cabinets are designed to be the same height as the installed wall cabinets so the tops all line up. When you change the height a wall cabinet is installed at, it affects cabinet top alignments. (Note: With custom and some semi-custom cabinets, this is a non-issue b/c the cabinetmaker/manufacturer can adjust for this. I'm assuming that since you are getting fully custom cabinets, your KD/cabinetmaker can make these adjustments.) With the refrigerator you can usually mount the upper cabinet a little lower OR order a shorter upper cabinet, but be sure you don't make the alcove any shorter than 72" tall b/c newer refrigerators are 70" to 72" tall (and seem to get taller each year!) With other tall cabinets like oven cabinets and pantry cabinets, they're a standard height and designed so they're the same height as the wall cabinets when those wall cabinets are installed 18" above a 36" high counter. If you have custom cabinets, this may not be an issue b/c your cabinetmaker can adjust the cabinet heights. But, if you are using stock or even some semi-custom cabinets, you cannot change the height. You can often get taller cabinets for use w/36" or 42" tall wall cabinets, but not shorter for 30" mounted lower. But, even those that are taller are also adjusted based on standard wall cabinet heights + an 18" backsplash height. Small appliance height...Small appliance manufacturers often design their products to meet this 18" standard...for example, my KA stand mixer (bowl lift) is around 17" and many coffeemakers and blenders are just short of 18". So, you need to be sure you have room under the cabinets + light rail to fit those appliances. Small appliances... Keep in mind that if you're using an appliance on your counter, you must be sure you have room under the base cabinets to move that appliance around easily. Don't, for example, tell yourself you're only going to use it in front of your upper cabinets so you don't need to worry about its fit. In reality, you will be moving things around on your counter while you work and most likely your appliance will be moved under the cabinets at some point. You don't want to tear your light rail off or damage it (or the cabinets). Also remember that "standard" upper cabinets are 12" deep + 1" for the door...so they stick out 13" over your counter...leaving you only 12" or so of...

If your DH wants a higher counter for the sink, then I suggest making the entire Cleanup Zone higher...with a raised DW. He will appreciate the raised DW as well! A byproduct of raising the counters (especially if you have taller cabinets and not just placing them on a platform) is extra room under the sink for storage (or trash if you like trash under the sink...I don't, but some people do.) As to installation of upper cabinets...it depends on what you plan to do there...if you plan to also use small appliances there (or keep a coffeemaker on the counter), then be sure to leave enough space for what you plan to do there. If nothing else will be there, than a somewhat shorter backsplash height might be OK...as long as your DH doesn't feel cramped with the shorter workspace height there. The rest of the kitchen could then be designed to fit your needs...whether that's standard height (36" high including cabinets + countertop) or shorter. The thread linked below has information about backsplash heights and how to measure for the height that works for you. Just do this for each area of your kitchen...not all the heights have to be the same if they're separated by doors or walls. (I would probably keep them the same height if there's just a window b/w them.) Here is a link that might be useful: Thread: Wall Cabinet and counter-top height code

The testing thing makes the most sense. I used to be involved in patient-based clinical research and the parameters of study were sometimes quite narrow, to limit the number of variables. Then, when the new drug application was filed with the FDA and the "labeled use" was determined, the indications of the drug could be interpreted rather narrowly. Using the drug or device outside these parameters often made sense, but it could not be promoted for such. Its probably a similar thing...it was tested on a standard height kitchen counter so it is "labeled for use" at standard kitchen counter height, when in reality, its use at other heights is not contraindicated. I recently saw a kitchen where the OTR microwave was 60" off the floor. I think it is much more dangerous to be removing a steaming dish at eye level than below waist level, but it was mounted OTR as tested, so it was not in violation. I have also seen them on top of refrigerators: again, removing something from over the head or while standing on a stool is more dangerous,,,but it is above the 3' height--so its in an okay spot according to the specs. But not in practice.

I put in a BS window and my aunt has one in her Florida home and loves it so much she is putting another in the new house they are building down there. They are both 18" tall. Both of ours go the entire length of the exterior wall counter. She has a fairly traditional kitchen and says the BS window brings in both a ton of light and a ton of compliments. She says it is the highlight of her kitchen. My place is still at pre-renovation, though, as we did the exterior first as part of an energy program and went ahead and installed the window. I used to have a taller window there, but we are ripping down the wall separating the kitchen and living room and so I needed the exterior wall to hold cabinets. My cabinets are 30" and will go to the ceiling with small crown of some kind. I have extremely short ceilings. The BS height will be perfect for viewing from the peninsula seating and living/entry area. My major observation so far is how much light it brings into my Alaska kitchen and how it warms up the counter. I hope mine doesn't look awkward, that would be disappointing. This style is NOT designed for an eye level view from the perimeter cabinets, though some bring the window up to eye level over a sink or range or something. Like this: [[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/kitchen-modern-kitchen-san-francisco-phvw-vp~27996) [Modern Kitchen design[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/modern-kitchen-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_709~s_2105) by San Francisco Architect Rossington Architecture Here's my aunt's first place. The new house is still under construction: Here's mine, unfinished. Pics are not great and view is filled with work zones: As you can see, cat loved it on first sight... And...just to provide some more eye candy: [[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/white-laquer-and-dark-oak-kitchen-modern-kitchen-los-angeles-phvw-vp~40006) [Modern Kitchen design[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/modern-kitchen-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_709~s_2105) by Los Angeles General Contractor See Construction [[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/feldman-architecture-modern-kitchen-san-francisco-phvw-vp~18937) [Modern Kitchen design[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/modern-kitchen-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_709~s_2105) by San Francisco Architect Feldman Architecture, Inc. I do think it leans modern, and I'm a little concerned about that with my kitchen. Many have offered assurance that it will work with whatever I want to do, but I'm in a small 50's ranch and won't be going ornate/fancy.