I used it on my kitchen cabinets, so it may not be as helpful for you to see, but it's somewhere on this site (in progress still). Sorry, I can't seem to link to it?! Anyway, I don't find it dark at all. More of a very light pearly grey with a bluish green undertone in my space. I think it looks much darker on the card, but on a large expanse in a fairly well lit room, its a light/medium light color (to my eyes). Hth

that color can have a pinkish undertone.

You do know that the color will need to be tested in your space with all your stuff and lighting. All the pics from someone elses space mean nothing . Get a poster board or 2 and sample pots of the 2 colors you like paint the boards with 2 coats each then move those boards around in all the spaces you want to pint and see how they look. I always suggest cahnging all the lighting to LED 4000K to make sure the colors at least stay true at night when you have only artifical lighting.

I like Kem-Aqua plus pretty well. It is beginner friendly and easy to work with. It is comparable to a lacquer level finish without the problems that lacquers have. With proper equipment and setup, you will not need to thin the product and cleanup is easy. It can orange peel if your gun is setup poorly so spray a decent amount of cardboard first. The white is super-white and you will not match it with any other coating, so if that is a concern, get some tint (it has to be tinted at a distribution center). ---- I have airless, air-assisted airless, and HVLP sprayers (actually multiples of the first and third). I will put a $500 Fuji Spray with a devilbiss gun against any airless sprayer and crush it every time. My go-to spraying setup for wood is a Devilbiss finishline spray gun and a Fuji Spray Q5 platinum. But I also have a Fuji Spray Semi-pro 2 and it is a great sprayer for the money. If you are spraying off a compressor, I highly recommend upgrading to a turbine sprayer. The Semi-pro sells new for $460 and you can sell it used for $400. Well worth the small investment. --- This is not taking anything away from 2k poly... a good Italian 2k poly is great if you can get one. I am underwhelmed by the development of some US versions that make no attempt to move away from isocyanates.