It has goten worst over the years but the mill used on all framing lumber over a 2x4 has never been all that great while I have been in the Trades. A power planer works on the green pt stuff with out a whole lot of trouble.

I most always flush frame so all those mismills are on the bottom,then all a person has to deal with is the crown.
John

That ACQ that they sell at Lowes or Home Despot really sucks. It looks straight in the store, but as soon as it gets outside it starts to warp. I have to run all the red lights back to my jobsite to get that stuff screwed down quickly before it pretzels up.
Lately, I've been buying ACQ from a local lumber yard. they have a better grade for a bit more $, but it's more stable. I end up saving money by not getting anymore red light tickets.

anyway, I also use a power plane for the crowns. I never used timber tech. My decks are all Ipe, and it doesn't get wavy. If anything, it'll tame those unruly joists...make them line up.

good luck with your deck...post pics or a youtube.com video

steve

I agree, the quality of treated has declined greatly over the past few years. The primary change has been a cost-saving move to skipping the KDAT (kiln-dried after treatment) step. This results in wood that twists and shrinks a lot after the deck frame is nailed together. Resulting problems are often blamed on the decking surface. I'm glad you identified the problem before installing the decking. I think you will be glad if you give it a few days to do its thing before planing, sometimes snapping a line and circular saw is quicker, then you will have shim stock for the low spots.
This problem can also show up on the fascia trim boards, if the frame shrinks it will make the fascia warp. So if the frame is 'preshrunk' you will be better off.
On future decks you can look for the KDAT stamp and avoid some of this extra work. KDAT minimizes shrinking, twisting, and warping. It can also be stained, painted, or sealed immediately. Also, it is lighter and therefore easier to handle, and it does make for better nail holding strength, although the lumber itself is not any stronger.
By the way, I think the T'Tech Floorizon can span 24" (but check with them first).

Thanks Guys for your advice. For some reason I haven't gotten any E-Mails, lucky I checked in. I am at work so have no way of checking for the KDAT Stamp but I'll bet that is exactly what has happened. I fully understand what you are saying about Big Box store lumber I've seen the same thing myself. I try never to buy more from them than I can use immediately. This lumber I did buy from the biggest and "best" lumberyard in Omaha, thinking it would of course be better. After talking to my salesman I'm not so sure. His explanation was that they go through so much treated lumber that it don't get a chance to dry out before going out to the job. Not impressed. But I have gotten the framework done and will plane them off tomorrow. Anybody have any experience with TimberTech? I'm wondering if I can shim the low spots? With what? 1/8 inch or less.

Hey Rock, over here in Cow Town we have a real live lumber yard, belive me these Folks are in vanish mode. This Business has Great GrandFather roots and has survived in a solid form. Anyway the # 1 PT materail I get from this outfit has a few less knots and got the second klin dried treatment it is lighter as well but really a Person has to install it pretty quick or the same problems will happen. Thats just the nature of yellow pine exposed to the sun.

I have pretty much stayed with TimberTech when the Wallet wants a composite bid for a lot of reasons.Martin is right the T&G material can span 24''. Far as using shims on TT or any other kind of decking, dont do it man.
John