Since the existing patio is on a granular base (as opposed to solid concrete) I would absolutely, positively NOT consider any mortared work on top of it. The reason is that the earth is a flexible surface. Though it moves so slowly you can't see it, it is doing it nevertheless. If you were to mortar flagstone or thin brick on top of it, this work would effectively be only as thick as the mortar that glued it on ... 1/2" maybe (?) It wouldn't be thick enough to support itself as the earth underneath shifts. If you're going to mortar something on top, you need a 4" solid concrete, driveway-like base (3 1/2" actual) that will not flex at all. But you could go over it with regular thickness pavers on sand IF you insulate the two layers with an inch of sand. (This is predicated on knowing that the existing base is of SOLID compacted material. Since it's been there a good while, its present shape is a good indicator of how solid the base is.) I would go so far as to say that if the present patio was perfect condition -- smooth, of perfect grade, and all slab joints perfectly matched -- you could go over it without the sand insulation. But it's not likely that it's that perfect. If you go over it, one thing you'll need to pre-plan carefully is the finish grade. It looks like your grade might end up being too high. I don't know what all the holes at the foundation are for, but they're probably not wanting to be blocked. If you need a lower grade, sell all those slabs on craigslist (someone would probably love to have them ... they look like step treads, BTW) and build directly onto your already existing base.

Here are the directions. I wish you could see the pictures of how this looks, but they sent me a color copy, not a link. Since your patio is green, you would probably have to paint it some sort of cement type color to form the 'grout lines' before rolling on the bricks. If you have patience and a steady hand, this is a great cheap fix. Let me know if you do this and how it turns out. Or, if you have any questions. from Cottage Living: for painting old concrete to look like brick. This is the technique I used on my patio that I got from Cottage Living Magazine. They sent me a reprint, since I misplaced the article. I only wish I could post the photos from the article so you could see what she is doing. But here are the written instructions. Let me know if you need any help. You can do it Go Faux it. The plain paving around the 1930's cottage did little to enhance its charm, but tearing out the concrete and laying a brick walkway would have cost thousands. Instead, Claudia mixed a batch of brick colored paint and rolled it right onto the concrete. Initially, she tried stenciling the bricks, but when it looked 'too neat and perfect', she decided to do the job by hand. After painting a 100 foot long path in an afternoon, she was so pleased with the results that she went onto brick her entire driveway. Details: Paint a brick walkway:Gather the goods: 4 inch paint roller, paint tray, custom blended paint 1) Claudia Darr used 1 gallon of Benjamin Moore's MoorGard Low Lustre Latex House Paint (#103-4B) in the following forumla (the paint dealer will know what this means):OY 1x8, RX 5x, BK 1x22, MA 3x, WH1x16, TG 18 2) Clean the area you plan to paint, and let it dry thoroughly 3) Beginning in a corner, use a 4 inch roller to paing " bricks". Make each one about 7 inches long, leaving about 3/4 inch between each brick (to simulate grout line). Stagger adjoining rows so bricks form a wall pattern. Good luck with this and let us know how it turns out. Some tips from me: sweep the area well before you do this. The 4 inch roller is a skinny little roller that I found in the Benjamin more paint store. It came with a roller stick. I attached one of those wooden poles that screwed into the handle of the roller handle. It is the type you would use when you would paint your ceiling. Trust me, you do not want to bend over with the roller for an entire day painting the ground! Experiment on some old newspaper first to get your technique down. And, I first went around the entire outside of the patio laying the 'bricks' out along the edge in the opposite direction that I ran the rest of the bricks in. It makes for a nicer look.

Very Carefully. Thin set will not work down the road. Depending on the condition of the slab it might be possible to use high grade construstion adhesive after a big time cleaning and durning good weather. Check out a local to pick out the grout. J.

Since you're wanting something that is cooler, I would first look at coatings made for pool decks. One brand is Kool Deck. A relative had this installed around her patio and pool and apparently it's supposed to be much cooler than bare concrete. Personally, I'd call some companies that specialize in coatings and review all your options. Here's one company I found that's in the East Bay.... their photos will give you some ideas. http://www.liquidcoatingdesigns.com/concrete-resurfacing-company-portfolio/porch-concrete-resurfacing-bay-area. Another option is stamp overlay, such as this . Also thought you might like seeing a nice photo of travertine. I had flagstone along the walkway of my previous home and you're correct about the surface being uneven. We had to be careful about the type flagstone we chose since we wanted as smooth a surface as possible. I can't say I found it any cooler than concrete with a SW exposure. I would have concerns about covering the edge of your stucco with a concrete step. Check the link below for info on stucco and the importance of drainage. Here is an excerpt from page 7: "Rain will soak into any stucco coating; the water will head downwards, and it must escape at the bottom. Weep screed lets water out through its perforations, and it stops the stucco from bonding to the cement foundation and creating a dam where water might pool. The screed should span between the wood framing or sheathing and the concrete foundation, and it should terminate at least 8 inches above grade". Here is a link that might be useful: Stucco