Put another coat of TWP over it, but use Dark Oak. Or a mixture of Dark Oak and something lighter if you don't want to go that dark. No need to strip if you're using the same brand over top.

2 ENTIRELY diff. types of wood & stain goin'-on here... Upper-deck: * It's great you sanded & stained ALL sides of the new P/T deck!! * The Cabot S/T is a PENETRATING Oil stain. * It is NOT designed to "bead water". No S/T stain is... * These stains protect-from-within, but not against water in that sense. * Rainwater doesn't harm a deck in the least. * Harsh UV-rays and foot-traffic are what kill a deck. Lower-deck: * TWP is a FILM-FORMING stain. Entirely diff. than a S/T like Cabot. * Therefore, the TWP is beading...BECAUSE IT'S A SURFACE FILM. * P/T wood will crack no matter what. It matters little what stain is on it. Faron

This is directly from MFG Sealants (The maker of TWP) ******************** This is not the right material for your type of wood. No wonder it does not last very long, it is sitting on the surface. This is the first time I read or realized (I can be slow that way) that this was something other than a "traditional" decking material. Certainly, Ipe and Cumaru are becoming more of a commonly used product. I would use TWP 100 series for those types of wood. Those species are extremely dense and hard (don't need to tell you, you have a deck of the stuff), TWP 500 series base oil will not penetrate very well on extremely dense woods. It is more for Pine, Ash, Cedar, Redwood, all species that are relatively soft compared to what you are using. 100 series works very well on Teak, Ipe, Cumaru, and a few other exotic species that I am aware TWP has been applied on. So, what to do. First, the 500 series should be removed. I would make up a solution of 3 gal water, 1 gal Bleach, 1 cup liquid laundry soap, and 1/4 cup TSP (tri sodium phosphate). Apply with a bug sprayer, let sit 15-30 minutes, scrub with a pine bristle broom or scrub brush on a stick (no hands and knees, that is no fun) and rinse clean. You may have to do this more than once, I give you this recipe versus telling you to go to the store or sending you a cleaner myself. Here is why, Cumaru and other similar woods, have very high tannins. So what you say, well, if you use a cleaner with NaOH (sodium hydroxide) it will turn the surface of the wood very dark. *******************

One coat of any finish is not going to last all that long. Sweetster,This was on a 12'' piece of 1x4 ipe,I raged it on and rubed it in first coat,10 min later I brushed on the second coat heavy, it set up in the 10 mins out in that weather.The next day I brushed on another coat it was done to the touch in about 4 hrs. TWP is a whole lot like working with lacquare,building coats can be dry to touch but it takes a while for it to completly set up down below. On the first coat it was total dry with nothing coming off on my hand, same with the second,the third I did on Friday, I havent been to the Shop again but I will let ya know. With what I know now I say defently go with a second coat. Side Note>>>With new material Ipe included building coats to excess is not a good idea,This is hard to explain to my Wallets so I dont even try but the idea is the material has got to weather no matter how many are on there the first year the result down the road will problely be the same far as the color fading. Soooo I am thinking put one more on there Sweet and just leave it alone until say early Spring, the protection is still in there even if you cant see it. If this stuff handles like it seems it will,recoat is going to go the same as the 116 next year or next month. One thing we do with the finish and the paint pad is work it in, that is we are going over the same area 6/7 times, back and forth, colecting the excess as we go, working it in and caring it over to the next area. Doing it this way we dont really have any shiney spots. Of couse ipe being what it is some of it is going to take finish diferently depending on how close to the center of the tree it came from. J