Dunks are the larger version of Plunks . Dunks are the ones you need for large bodies of water like a pool . I use these in all my stock tanks . The Plunks and Dunks are highly effective and safe . The working ingredient is BT . The livestock can drink the water right away without any side effects . The Dunks are not cheap but they work . Currently , one of my stock tanks is inhabited by tadpoles . They are the best mosquito control in the world ! Any chance you can purchase some mosquito fish and find some tadpoles ? If not , try looking at feed stores for Dunks . Worth every penny . Must keep an eye on the water as the Dunks are used up quickly in our Florida heat .

Pool Care 101 for residential pools, if you are connected to the internet, and since you can see this, you are very likely to be, is, at this time, best handled by reading the Pool School section in the upper right of Trouble Free Pool web pages. The is no hidden agenda, no reinventing of the wheel, no Jedi magic, nothing. It contains the honest facts. It tells you how. It tells you why. It tells you where, when, how much of what, etc... It is what I use. It is what I tell my customers to go by. I make nothing from this site. Let me be clear. I use it and recommend its use because it works. If you can't take less than an hour a week in 99% of the residential pools that exist today and are physically and mentally within the normal parameters we as a people have, you are BS-ing me and everyone around you that you NEED someone to care for your pool. Sounds harsh? Maybe. But if you have to spend more than an hour a week on a regular basis, you didn't read and do what was told. Don't reinvent the wheel! Proper, sanitary pool care is not that hard to do and not that expensive. Here is a link that might be useful: The Best Pool School I know on the net as of 3/17/2012

Hi Racket - I think it's unfortunate because having a SWG and swimming in a salt pool are wonderful! I think it's a great benefit to have chlorine being generated steadily and being able to maintain a steady chlorine level. Moreoever, at least for me, I have never had any combined chlorine which means I have never needed to shock. On the other hand, I do hate dealing with acid and having to dump some into my water over 5-6 days or so. I think it's unfortunate that some pool builders are starting to move away from SWG because it keeps potential pool owners from being able to experience this way of chlorinating a pool. With all due respect, I think it's much too simplistic to say that because one notices a certain type of corrosion or damage only on salt pools that the salt itself is to blame. How can one say that it is NOT because the pool owner was running their pump too long, or setting their chlorinator at too high a level which caused their chlorine level to rise much too high becoming a much more active corrosive agent? (I personally know of people that run their pumps 24 hours a day, for example.) Here's a personal story. I have my SWG set at 35% which allows me to keep my chlorine level at 5-6ppm. I was away on a trip for about a week. When I came back, I was shocked to find out when I checked my water that my chlorine level was up to 11ppm! Well, up until a couple weeks ago, we had about 3 straight weeks of rainy weather here in the Dallas-area. I concluded that it was the lack of sun exposure that caused my chlorine to creep up that much (not as much chlorine burn off from the sun.) I happen to check my water very regularly. Can you imagine the typical pool owner that doesn't, or just takes their water to Leslie's once a month? Or how about pool owners that allow their stabilizer levels to get so low that they aren't able to hold a good chlorine residual and they think the solution is to increase their chlorinator setting to compensate, not realizing that the chlorine they're generating has now become 30x more corrosive because of the low CYA level? I have read stories of salt pools being blamed for corrosion on structures made out of 316L Marine-grade stainless steel. If these stories are true, then salt pools with salt content at 3000ppm is somehow more corrosive than ocean water with salt content 35000ppm? Perhaps. But chlorine at high levels is easily corrosive enough to eat through 316L stainless steel. I'm not ready to blame salt quite yet. Mind you, I'm watching my pool very closely to see if I start to see any ill-effects, but so far, nothing yet. Having said all of this, I do think that SWG manufacturers need to be more upfront with the true care and maintenance aspects of owning a salt pool. It isn't as "care and maintenance free" as they would like the consumers to think!

When it comes to how much chlorine should be in the pool on a regular basis and when shocking, the ozone system doesn't matter. Ozone is a supplemental system. It can only augment chlorine. As you found out, it does nothing against algae. What is the active ingredient in the Swimtrine Plus? Is it Calcium Hypochlorite (cal-hypo) or dichloro-s-triazinetrion, aka dichlor? How are you testing the water? Just prior to starting the shocking process, what were the chemical levels for the following: Free available chlorine(FC), Total or Combined Chlorine(TC or CC), Alkalinity(TA), pH, Stablizer (CYA), Calcium Hardness(CH), and if you are using Bio-Guard brand Optimizer*, what is it's level? Are you using an erosion feeder and 3" tablets to feed the pool it's daily chlorine or a salt water chlorine generator? What equipment is at the filter pad? Brand and model information are important. At the moment, all we know is that you have a 50K pool with an edge and that it has an ozonator. The more we know about what you have to work with, the better we can help you. *Optimizer, for those that didn't know, is a borate based additive that can help stabilize the pH in salt systems, when tend to have the pH rise. Scott