I used plan3d for my kitchen design. I had previously bought a copy of 3D home Architect (version 5) and was bitterly disappointed in how truly awful it was. It would crash frequently, it would corrupt the save file necessitating starting over from scratch, and there were many things it just couldn't do. But my biggest complaint was that the entire program was driven by the overhead 2d design, and to actually see the design in 3d you had to select a menu entry after which the machine would work for about 10 seconds and then display a rendering from your selected viewpoint. Want a different view? select a different viewpoint and wait another 10 seconds. However having worked as the graphics engine programmer at a small game company, I knew that the computer could display the entire view 60 times a second. After discarding that program I tried plan3d, and at least by comparison with the previous software, its wonderful. :-) On the whole plan3d is easy to get started with and easy to get a fairly reasonable representation of your kitchen. The interface is much more geared towards working in 3d, you can do all of the placing of cabinets and items in the 3d view. Other features of Plan3d that I liked: - If the program doesn't have a texture that looks like what you want, it is easy to take any other texture and apply it to the models in the program. For instance I planned on having quarter sawn oak cabinets, but none of their wood grain patterns had the look of QS Oak. So I downloaded an image of quarter sawn oak from a website, and simply dragged it onto the cabinet models. - The layouts are precise enough that you can rely on then. My kitchen is oddly shaped, with entry to the living room at an angle. I planned on tiling the kitchen, but wanted to avoid tiny little tile pieces along the angled edge. By getting the dimensions of the room _exactly_ right and using a 12x12 tile pattern in the program I was able to figure out how exactly to lay the tile to avoid tiny pieces around the edge. (The program was worth its price just for this.) - Lastly although it was mostly gimmicky, you can click on the cabinets, or appliances or door in the view and see how the door will swing as it opens, which can help figure out things like "will the fridge door block the entryway when its open?" or "will the dishwasher block the aisle too much when it is open?" Of course that is not to say there weren't things I disliked about the program. - I wasn't thrilled about their subscription-based pricing model, but I suppose that that is a big part of what allows them to keep the price low. - Given that the program downloads models, and textures over the internet, if you have a slow internet connection (like I do) the program will be slow, and if your internet goes out (like mine often did) you can't select any new models or stock textures until the internet comes back. - They have a relatively small set of models, if ou want to see the difference between a side by side fridge vs a freezer on the bottom fridge. Fine, you can. If you want to see Bosch model X wall oven vs the GE Monogram wall oven, too bad. - For floors and countertops, you can make them in non-rectangular shapes, but the interface for doing so is hard to figure out, hard to use, and even caused the program to crash a few times. - Lastly and most annoying, often times I would click away from the item I had been editing, too see it without the large red and blue ball-shaped item adjustment handles, and would inadvertantly drag the floor or move a wall. After finishing my remodel I took a bunch of pictures and then for laughs decided to move my plan3d viewpoint to the same location and take a snapshot to compare the plan3d to the real thing:

The well point is at the deepest end of the pool. Be careful installing one. A hydrostatic valve might work better. Sometimes depending on what is surrounding your property if you are constantly pumping water out from under your pool you could also be pumping water from underneath other structures. Many times the water is what is supporting the structure. If you dry soil out than your soil will fail. That's how sink holes happen. Consult a soils engineer and do some testing before you install a pool. I have a soils report done before I even finalize a bid on a project. He can tell you what type of soil you have so you can appropriately design the engineering for your pool. It's cheap insurance. Hope this helps.

The ASA supports both wet and dry methods and as far as I know they do not recommend one over the other for pools. For other applications, there may be a preference. However, I have heard that Gunite (dry Shotcrete) is a stronger than wet Shotcrete for the reasons Devildog mentioned above. I have also heard that Gunite is harder to apply correctly because it is mixed at the nozzle and it requires a well experienced nozzleman to get the correct mix for strength. This may be why there are fewer companies providing Gunite. Here is what the ASA says about the difference: ___________________________________________ Question 45: As a specifier, should I specify which processÂdry or wetÂshould be used on my projects? What are the significant differences? Answer: The application of shotcrete can be done successfully with either method. The dry-mix shotcrete process tends to be more favorable for lower volume placements. It is also a more flexible method, allowing for more frequent relocations of equipment. Equipment is more easily cleaned at the end of the placement. The nozzleman must exercise great care in adding the necessary amount of water while shooting. The wet-mix shotcrete method is more favorable for larger volume placements. Rebound is substantially less than in the dry-mix shotcrete process. The nozzleman does not have to be concerned with controlling the water addition. This method is less efficient when there is a requirement for frequently starting and stopping placements. The wet shotcrete mixture has a limited "pot-life." Remember, shotcrete is not a special product. It is a method of placing concrete. All the recommended practices for concrete placed by any other method, such as curing and protection, also apply to shotcrete.

We built our home last year and we're ready to install an in-ground pool. We want a "diving pool" although no diving board. I'm debating fiberglass vs vinyl liner and would love to hear pros and cons. Also, salt vs chlorine. Additionally, I have a concern about placement, as the area we want to build the pool has a slight slope down to it. Would this need built up in order to stave off runoff?