'Flexible' deck drain? Does that exist?
16 years ago
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- 16 years ago
- 16 years ago
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Under deck draining for shed/storage area? Trex Brasilia?
Comments (11)I'm about to do the exact same thing with my deck-rebuilding project. Went to Lowe's to see what's new in corrugated materials. In addition to the old El Cheapo 5-ounce fiberglass everyone's seen on hothouses, etc., Lowe's now offers a corrugated PVC material called "Deck Drain" by the manufacturer. It's around $20 for a 26" by 12-foot piece. And if that's not fancy enough, they also have it in polycarbonate (like what your DVDs are made out of). One advantage of this approach is that you can build the deck dead level and just shim/furr out the plastic underneath to get the required drainage slope. You'll probably have to use furring strips anyway as the rib spacing on the plastic might not correspond to the joist spacing you're attaching it to. The furring helps with the overall ventilation too. You'll have to fake it between the deck edge and the ledger beam that supports the joists at that end. You can either just custom-fit the plastic between each pair of joists, or use a flexible membrane between the joists to back-drain over to the main drainage plastic. (I've seen complete systems done this way. They have a funky visual appearance.)...See More'Pot' drains? What are they? Good for freeform pools?
Comments (2)Just my .02, I had pot drains in the deck at my last house (rectangular pool). Because the cement has to be sloped in many different directions to get it to drain to each pot, you end up with lots of slopes in the patio. Granted if done correctly shouldn't be an issue, but I ended up with pooling in several areas. This time I have a decko drain (freeform pool) and I love it. All the water goes in and no spots on the patio. It's not as ugly as one might think, and with patio furniture I don't even notice it....See Moredeck drain materials
Comments (13)The 1/4" the PB referred to was per foot. If a cut was made 18" in from the enclosure base, that would leave a 35' cut on each long side of the pool. Starting from the center, that 17.5 feet x 1/4" per foot pitch. Initial depth at the middle of 3/4", that makes the ends of each cut at 5" deep. If the slab is 6" thick, then the ends of the cuts are only 1" thick. The drains need to channel the water to a sump. The sump will need a pump. There are 4 corners needing sumps. The sump discharges have to get out of the enclosure. That means tunneling under. This is in Connecticut. These sumps need to work year round. It gets cold in the winter. The digging will need to go below the frost line. Without the use of a pump, I suppose a leech field could be made and gravity can do it's thing. The drain water must go somewhere. I still think the cuts will crack at the bottom, starting near the sump. Then water will penetrate below the slab, wreaking havoc with the outer slab section that the enclosure rails sit on. I'll bet there isn't a PB on this forum that would order a deck pitched towards the pool unless demanded by the H-O and then not have a waiver signed. If the PB was so worried about the run off, he would have dug a drain around the perimeter to carry it away. He didn't think of it and didn't build it into his bid. When he realized his omission, his solution was to change the pitch of the deck. He didn't want to spend the money to dig the drainage needed because he wasn't getting paid for it. I would call the PB on his bluff. Sue him. There is no defamation. He knew he was wrong before he ordered the pour. Scott Here is a link that might be useful:...See MoreThe Perfect Layout - does it exist?
Comments (20)debrak, that's a great idea - I'm just not sure our guy knows how to work like that. But I want someone who does. I also think that the problem might be me. That I don't know how to effectively ask for what I want, without feeling like I'm throwing a temper-tantrum. I want to step back and let the architect do what he does best, but I also want the end result to fulfill certain criteria, and I feel silly asking for that. So it's probably just me. I probably need psychotherapy before even considering a building project. ;-\ laughable, yes, I've lived with a drive-under before, and I agree it is not ideal, but we have weighed this particular aspect over and over, and it always comes back as the best choice in our circumstances. We do plan on a dumbwaiter or elevator (or space for one in future). A drive-under is really no different than what we do now, only hopefully it will be more pleasant, with real stairs and indoors. Now, because the house is so elevated and we have no garage at all and the deck stairs are at the opposite end of the deck from the kitchen door, we stop along the side of the 40' long deck and throw the groceries, luggage, etc, up onto the 6-7' tall deck (we removed the railings for better access - against code I know), then drive 40' to the stairs, park the car, get out, walk up the 15 stairs, turn around and walk back 40' to the kitchen door. Sometimes we make our daughter stand up there and catch the grocery bags as we toss them, like some kind of fire brigade! It's a crazy pain in the rear. Especially in the rain or snow. oldbat2be, love your house! You are right, it may be time to consider a different architect. Or again, maybe I need advice on how to talk to this one. He did listen at first, but then lost interest after we didn't like his first plan. This post was edited by jenswrens on Mon, Dec 17, 12 at 22:03...See More- 16 years ago
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