I think the best suggestion in the whole thread was Holly's suggestion to have them kneecapped! LOL! The prices are robbery. For that amount, I'd expect custom mosaic work to the level of the baths of Pompeii. Something truly artsy and spectacular. You're getting I-95 truckstop quality work instead. They are in over their head. I know you like him, but there is something not quite right here in the fact that your GC hasn't already addressed the issue permanently. He is failing in his primary role if he does not. If he is the one paying them, then it's HIS problem to sort out the materials from labor here. You shouldn't even know there's an issue with their contract. You shouldn't have even seen the contract between the two. It doesn't involve you. Your role is to insist on the quality of work that your fee should be providing. His role is to provide that quality by selecting the appropriate subcontractors and supervising their work. Even if he has to eat some fees here or take a loss by severing the relationship with this sub, it's HIS problem that he agreed to the vague contract. NOT YOUR PROBLEM! He needs to cut his losses with the subs and move on. If he doesn't do that, then he is either getting kickbacks from them or he is related to them. There is some other hidden motivation to keep them. It's NOT a "court thing" at all. He has the right and obligation to set the quality standard of the work that the sub provides, and if the sub doesn't provide to that standard, it's his job to get rid of them, even if it costs him. He is the GC and you pay him for the headache resolution. You don't keep people who screw up and cost you money---unless they aren't really costing him money.

I use the 1x6 ipe. Your right the pt 4x4s can range a good 1/4'', the first rip is 3 3/4'' from the 1x6 we use the full 5 1/2'' for the other. Never use the factory edge always square up any lumber. I use an orbital to taper the wrapped post a router with an ogee on the cap rail. One little trick,the pt posts installed in the framing means they will be exposed to the sun until the decking is installed. Its very possible to get major twisting/warping in a very short time,to keep this happening we cover the posts in white trash bags until its time to place the post wrapps. J

When I installed my railing posts, I would say about 75% didn't require any shims as the joists they were attached to were plumb. The other 25% were attached to a joist that cupped or bowed or was otherwise not quite plump. I used extra washers as needed between the joist and the post. I was worried that shims would work their way out. I threaded the bolt through the joist, then through the shim/washers, then through the ipe post. That way the washers weren't going to fall out. I'm sure some of the pros can give you some good tips, but that is what worked for me. As far as drilling/screwing goes I found myself repeating John Hyatts mantra over and over "it ain't killing snakes". If you try to go too fast you will break drill bits and strip screws. It's not really that bad and you will get a feel for how quickly you can move. I think I broke numerous smart-bits the first day. That got better as I went along to the point where I break very few. It helps to have two people. One person with the countersink drill and one person with a driver (a driver is a must in my opinion as my drill does a very poor job of driving screws) I am planning to stain my deck, but I may wait until next year. There is a lot of conflicting information out there on whether to wait or whether to do it right away, but to be honest, by the time I finally finish this project I am going to need a little break. Riles

John, Yes, I saw the contract, and it was just shy of our budget (which now looking back...makes me feel like he did it just to make it seem like a better deal - just my feeling, may not be the reality). What made me "hot" was seeing a relatives deck, which is bigger, used composite (from what I understand, would be less cost than procell) but was only 1/4 of the cost. I know terms and labor details are different and can make a difference... but I'm wondering if a 300% difference is a sign that maybe I need to talk to the contractor. Now, I've not confronted my contractor as I'm still not sure if $60/sq ft is legit or not. Basically, it's not a deck with fancy design or complicated building requirements. However, they did take care of everything (drawing up designs, apply for permits etc...). The work entails them tearing out (and removing) the old deck, and put in a larger deck (thus, more beams were dug) using the old supports. The majority of my frustration is directed at myself for not doing my homework. And I definitely would not be sore with the contractor if we're talking a 10-20% difference... but when you realize that you paid 4 times some others paid... you'd have to wonder. Bottom line, I'm just trying to ask the experts here if $60/sq ft is an absurd price at all for a standard configuration using Procell. If not, then I'd chalk it up to bad planning on my part and move on. However, if this does sound way to high - I think I owe it to myself to confront him. But from the reactions here, it doesn't seem like its too far fetched....right?