The reason why i gave that link, is because it's frustrating cuz i can't post several pics on here, whereas at that forum i was able to include up to 10 attachments easily. There's nothing like pics to describe a situation (rather than 1000 words). It happens to be the survivalist boards. Unfortunately, once i posted my pics of my nauseatingly run down house, they seem to have washed their hands of me, and never mind that someone in such desperate straits is in most need of helpful info. The worst of it, is that the same guy who suggested my posting pics, then had the crassness to respond in a flip, totally pointless way, without offering factual help such as brand names of products to help me. It's so typical of what happens online - i.e. the lack of help one receives is proportional to the effort one expends trying to get help. (at least that's been consistently the case with me. I'm a murphy's luck magnet, no exaggeration. It's SO illogical, and SO doesn't make sense, but that's how it goes with me.

You are correct that the lower the water/cement ratio the stronger the mix. However, in my opinion I would tend to agree that strength of the mix is not really a huge issue with a sidewalk/patio. One thing to note that a drier mix will be more difficult to finish and you may sacrifice that. If it were me I would make sure that the base and steel were done properly, over the mix design. The base is the stone or dirt under the concrete. The fill you mention could be concrete or stone, but it should be placed in small lifts and compacted very well. The other area that is often overlooked or done improperly is the steel reinforcement. Either welded wire fabric (this is probably the screen fabric or screening you mentioned) or individual tied bars should work, though my preference would be individual tied bars if costs were similar. The main thing is that any steel reinforcement needs to be in the middle of the concrete to do any good. That means the reinforcement should be supported by chairs to keep it up off the ground. With the welded wire fabric the sqaures are small so it makes it difficult for the contractor to walk around the concrete to pour/work/finish. Individual bars typically have larger squares so if they are careful they can step between if necessary (still should be on chairs though). From what I have seen this area is often overlooked and done improperly. The contractor walks through concrete pushing the steel to the bottom, where it does absolutely no good. Most contractors will also promise to manually lift the steel once they have finished walking on it, right before they begin to finish it, but more often than not this is overlooked. Then finally make sure they use proper jointing. This is not as big a problem, but they need control joints to control cracking and expansion joints to allow for proper movement. I won't go into detail here, but a good contractor usually gets this one right. As far as selecting a contractor, just make sure you call their references. If they have references from several years ago, even better, so you can see how their is performing over time. Good luck, Riles

I am having a similar problem with my spa. I live in Central Texas with heavy clay soil as well as hard water. I just contacted our pool builder about 10 days ago and we are going on their schedule. We reported horizontal cracks in the spa last year with calcium building up in them. They came out and inspected and said it was normal and nothing to worry about. Now, the spa has a vertical crack going from the seat to the waterline completely through the wall. The spa drains into the pool overnight so the crack is completely visible now appears to go completely through the spa wall. The pool is going on its fourth summer so it is relatively new. I also have a lot of calcium deposits all over the PebbleTec on walls in the pool with very few on the floor of the pool. I have not seen any cracks forming in the pool walls. However, the concrete patio has hairline cracks in several places going the full width of the patio. Do the calcium deposits indicate an underlying problem with the plaster or gunnite and will the cracking patio have any effect on the pool?

A couple of points about pavers versus stamped concrete (I've built 2 pools and am building a third right now in Sedona, Ariz - - the other 2 were in Wash DC and San Diego). I've used stamped concrete and pavers and am going with pavers this time (although, i'll be honest and say i'd be hard pressed to decidedly pick one over the other. Stamped colored-concrete, which i used in Wash DC was perfect for the application we had, near a river, and lots of trees and the contractor applicator sprayed it down with just a bit of black-rustic paint inside the sealer giving it a fair cobble-stoning texture of shadows on the surface. Sure there were cracks that developed here/there and he told me there would be - - but with the light application of black paint in the sealer, cracks seemed to blend into the whole application. As for pavers, i would suggest you be much more picky. Why? The colors they give you to choose from WILL vary from mixing load and groups of pallets to mixing load and groups of pallets. I DON'T CARE WHAT THE MANUFACTURER TELLS YOU - - I've visited the plants in Phoenix (43rd St.) for Pavestone and Belguard (in Atlanta). Trust me and go there and challenge them to give you (in Pavestone's case) a true 2-tone brown paver from an Adirondeck paver model and hold it up to say a 2-tone brown from a Villa paver model (nearly identical paver models - - except Villa is a fraction of an inch thicker). The colors will be different!!! And the brochure colors (they will tell you - - "well that was with a mix formula we were using several years ago."). Lessen? If color means a lot to you (as it did me) - - i drove to the plant (in one case) narrowed down the color and paver model and then told the plant foreman to "freeze" 25 pallets and i'd put my order in for them. Phoenix was a 4 hour drive for me - - but i got what i was looking for and made personal time to visit friends while i was out there. If you're in Raleigh, I suggest you visit the Belguard plant in Atlanta (or if you want the textured surface, find the nearest Pavestone plant (i think there is one in Charlotte and you can freeze your pallets and place an order in from your closest Home Depot who is a Pavestone - - they're all Pavestone dealers. Get someone you like at Home Depot; tell them what you're going to do, and then drive down to Charlotte to decide which product and color you want - - obviously take all the samples home with you that you want. Lastly, you may look at a Riccobene product (similar to a flagstone look a like) made out of New Mex - - but dealers around the country. I think i'm going with that for the Sedona house. One last thought: Do not under-estimate the amount of heat those pavers (if they are even slightly dark - - like a flagstone) will generate on your feet if you're barefoot on a bright sunny day. Lay down your samples in the middle of the day when there is sun and then stand on them (i did this test before choosing my last model). Believe me they get hot - - and i didn't want my kids hopping foot to foot (like i'd seen them do at other folks' homes). Might not be an issue in Raleigh - - but it's an issue out here. White pavers are clearly the best for staying cooler. (Also i saw someone talk about sealers above. I love the "wet" look and it looks great on stamped concrete. My opinion though is that it doesn't get the same effect on pavers. If you happen to be in Sedona, i can give you an address of a house that has a huge amount of pavers down a long driveway. Stop in front of it and you'll be shocked - - he sealed the entire length and it just looks plane ludicrous - - some sort of slip-and-slide from Whammo! Sealer looks great on stamped concrete (and i use it) - - it doesn't carry the same effect on pavers. Maybe with the right model paver - - but every time i've seen some one do it - - well Whammo! Looks cheap and unreal.