Another option is to buy a stained glass and/or obscured glass design pane to hang in front of your new window. It is a decorative item that can be changed when decorating and tastes change, it does not effect the actual window at all, and it can act as a main decorative element in the room. It lets in more light than shades or curtains and it does not require any adjustment going from day to night. I used one in my kitchen to block the neighbor's view in. Here is a link that might be useful: Another view of stained glass window

I tried it and it wouldn't mix. The stain just sat on the surface of the Thompson's and even when mixed for a long time (basically shaken) the color was really ugly and muddy-looking. I ended up doing a coat of Thompson's and letting it dry, then painting a coat of Minxwax over it and wiping it off after a few seconds. It dried nicely and the color is spot on - so far, so good!

"Squirrel moment-- I have noticed that Marvin's Multi-slide SGD is 9/16" thick using a SGP interlayer. I've also noticed CGI's Estate Series SGD is 1/2" thick using a PVB interlayer." Within the glass industry and lesser extent the window industry, glass is measured and referenced in mm rather than in fractions of an inch for precision, although even people within the industry will refer to fractions at times usually when not being technical. For example, common, everyday, thicknesses of glass from a float might be 1.6mm, 2.0mm, 2.2mm, 2.5mm, 2.7mm, 3.0mm, 3.1mm, 3.9mm, 4.7mm, 4.9mm, 5.7mm, 5.9mm, 6.0mm....and so on. Imagine converting those into fractions and trying to keep track. If a window company wanted 1/8" tempered glass for use in an IGU, for example, then they would likely be getting 3.1mm, but if they wanted ordinary annealed glass, then they would probably receive 3.0mm. I could write pages about why thickness differences but suffice to say it can be simple in some cases and complicated in others. And some of those glass thicknesses directly relate to use with laminated glass. "Marvin's glass is a teensy bit thicker with an SGP interlayer (allegedly bomb resistant, I've read). I'm guessing Marvin uses the SGP interlayer to make the glass stronger." Here's a little secret for you, although glass is referenced in mm, interlayers in North America are usually referenced in decimal. Don't ask me why, that's just how it's done, but referencing interlayers in mm is becoming more common. This is why you can have a lami make up that's listed as 3.0mm/.090"/3.0mm. Weird but how it's done, but there's more. PVB comes in thicknesses of .015", .030", .045", .060", .090", with .090 generally used for impact products, but not always. PVB can also be stacked, for example adding two .060" for a total of .120". SGP comes in thicknesses of .030". .035", .038", .063", .095" and .100". So the reason why two laminated glass lites one with PVB and one with SGP aren't the same thickness is because SGP is slightly thicker than PVB. I do need to mention that there is an update to SGP since I retired and I don't know what thicknesses it comes in. Per bomb resistance, much of what I know in that area is very proprietary and not something I would post in public, but yes that is an option, but far from the only one, and I know some of them would surprise you. SGP has 5 times the tear resistance and is 100 times stiffer than PVB, but that isn't the whole story about how it functions as an impact resistant interlayer. Depending in the window size, aspect ratio, frame and sash materials, so on, sometimes SGP is the better choice and sometimes PVB is the better choice. They both have their place. 1-doesn't that make Marvin's door more qualified against hurricanes? Not necessarily, but I love SGP tear resistance in high wind situations. 2-Will the less-than-stellar ability of SGP to reduce outside noise to the degree that PVB can reduce noise be noticable? Is it a game changer? That's your call, but SGP does virtually nothing for sound resistance while PVB is used in sound and recording studio glass. 3-Seeing that both CGI and Marvin use the same Cardinal glass, the Marvin frame is allegedly on par or stronger than CGI's, do these facts make Marvin a superior product? Again not necessarily. Wood, vinyl, fiberglass, aluminum, have all been certified to hurricane codes, both Miami Dade and ASTM E1886 and E1996. Some sash/frames are stifff as heck and never move, others flex like crazy but stay in place. As long as they meet code that would not be my concern. Do I like Marvin better? Yes I do, but that has to do with a lot of other reasons, not just the material they use for their sash and frames.

Your floors will be a classic colour. Yes they are more orange than you would have liked, but they will tone down a bit with the water based polyurethane. Oak will fade when exposed to UV lighting. A water based polyurethane will NOT add colour (we call it ambering and it drives me to drink!). That means you will achieve a lighter, less 'orange' floor as the wood ages. As a classic colour, you will quickly be able to ignore it as a 'design' element. It will quickly become 'a floor'. Which is what it is supposed to be. It is supposed to be the hardest wearing surface in your home that will outlast every paint choice, every carpet choice, every decor fad on the market. When working with a classic colour, you will soon discover the benefits of the classic tones. They don't change. Classic is classic. I think you will be happy with this floor - just give it time to grow on you. And remember: do NOT add area rugs for at least 6 months. Let the floor 'tone down' all together.