Hi - I've been using something called Vigoro Tall Fescue with RTF (a self-repairing feature). Click here to see info about it: http://www.vigoro.com/ProductCategories/GrassSeed/TallFescue/ I'm not sure whether or not this type of grass is suited for FL use -- someone else may want to comment on this. I planted my first section last fall, and it's fantastic - although you can faintly see the outline of the pavers, the grass came in great. This spring I finished planting the rest of the paved area, and the grass is already about 2 to 3 inches tall. I give it lots and lots of water. What I do when I plant grass is I thoroughly mix about 80 pounds of top soil, 40 pounds of humus manure (not too strong a manure mix), one 12 oz cup of seed, and about 10 oz of "starter fertilizer". After I spread out this mixture, I cover with something called Emerge. (here's the link to Emerge: http://www.shopping.com/xPC-Mgc_Emerge_for_lawns) This is a miracle process -- my grass always looks wonderful. I used about 100 40 pound bags of top soil and humus/manure so far this year, and I'm quite pleased with the result. Of course, my back is sore, but what the hey? Good luck -- and you probably need to use the "right" grass for central FL.

Hi Gail From what you described it sounds like your house is brick? and the patio goes above the concrete foundation? So moisture is seeping through the brick and damaging the wood structure of the house...Is this what is happening? If so the perimeter drain sound like a good solution. If you do put it in then make sure that the WHOLE side of the house has the drain system and it drains offto an area that is away from the house. The last thing you want is water sitting near the foundation. Also I would take it one or two steps further and dig down to the concrete foundation and coat all the way up to the finished patio elevation. They make a type of tar coating for such problems. Remember the deeper the french drain the better. And don't use the flexible type of drain pipe use the rigid, its easier to make sure you have it on the proper grade. Good Luck

Not all natural stone tops need to be sealed. Get a dense material like Maron Cohiba or Black Galaxy, Blue Pearl, Verde Lavoia or a whole slew of others, and your sealing question is a moot point. Do a search on here for "Granite 101" or "granite absorption test" and you will find many, many threads discussing your question and related subjects. Have fun designing your kitchen :) On your original question: They have to be to be allowed to be sold. Besides: the sealer will never come in contact with the food because it is designed to be a sub-surface product. Basically the solids in sealers are inert. The solvent - be it water or otherwise will have evaporated long before any food comes in contact with the stone.

Omigod -- I am so excited, janefan! Pictures pictures pictures, please! I had the Miracle 511 Porous Plus here for the fabricators but when it came time for them to apply the sealer someone needed his diaper changed ... plus the fabricators are, uh, from a different school than I (of the "don't mind the little lady" school). Ahem. (I'm of the "I have the checkbook" school!) So they used their own sealer and then I resealed the hell out of that countertop with the Porous Plus over the next few days. I think I fried every brain cell I had (not that I had many to begin with!). I've seen no etching and v. little staining (only in our runnels is there some slight discoloration and yes, I did apply the sealer in there), and just last night I dropped some tomato sauce on the countertop and didn't wipe it for a few minutes. You'd never know it'd been there! The one mishap I had was when a little piece of rusted steel wool was on the bottom of a sponge (and I didn't realize it was there) and I wiped the countertop. It sucked up the rust and I ran to the computer to look up poultice recipes here on GW. Naturally, this was a Sunday evening. I found a recommendation for Rust Out and my husband offered to run over to Lowe's to purchase some; within thirty minutes from the time the stain occurred I had it out. Just a thought to have a poultice recipe (and the ingredients) on hand or a tub of Rust Out (it gets out more than rust) so if there's an accident you can attack it tout de suite. You'll also have to reseal reseal reseal after you apply a poultice (inc. Rust Out). I'll be checking back here obsessively, looking for your pictures! I feel really connected to you, you know!