Although they're a bit bulkier, there are CFL bulbs that look like normal incandescent bulbs instead of the "twirly whirly". They're also available in floodlight shape, globes, torpedos, fancy candelabras, and with odd-sized bases. At this time CFLs are not recommended for fixtures that vibrate, like ceiling fans and garage door openers, or in enclosed recessed light fixtures. We had problems with CFLs in outdoor fixtures starting up properly and giving less light than they were supposed to when it was very cold. I certainly hope by 2012 the bulbs cast a more attractive light though - I hate them. We Freecycled about a dozen of them when we moved in, everything but the basement and attic ones. The already-rather-ugly kitchen looked even worse under CFLs, and let's not talk about stumbling into the bathroom first thing in the morning and being presented with your reflection under that weird light. Yeeek. In my town you are supposed to save CFL bulbs for the hazmat collection day. I don't think most people do though, too much hassle. Check with your utility company - many of them offer free bulbs or rebates to offset much of the initial cost of the bulbs.

ron and countryboy, thanks for your replies. DH will try rewiring it...the odd thing is that it worked for several days and then suddenly stopped--does that affect your vote in any way, cb? What does "the neutral side was open" mean? He checked it with a voltimeter. Thanks again.

lnmca, re: "I wonder if anyone can post a link that can summarize this bulb stuff." Here are a few of the links I have found helpful over these past few months when I've been trying to make bulb and fixture decisions. One of the best comparisons I've seen of CRI numbers (color rendering index), complete with photos. CRI numbers Lots of good info, including comparison photos of color temp (scroll to link in section on How to Choose the Right Light). Energy Star Nice fixture choices plus good info in catalog on color temp - choose "Catalogs", "Residential", download catalog, scroll to next to last page. American Fluorescent For those ok with looking at charts, scroll down to Sources of Visible Light chart - basically this tells us there is no way to get the balanced light of an incandescent bulb in a fluorescent bulb as fluorescent bulb physics will always cause gaps in their color spectrum, which we see as the orangy warm bulbs and blue cool bulbs with nothing in between. Orange & blue light Finally, way more than you ever wanted to know about lighting efficiency of incandescent and halogen bulbs: Efficiency = saving money In choosing fluorescents, I think bulb color is a VERY personal decision. I have finally settled on bulbs in the 3500K - 4000K range as the lesser of the evils. The color is a little too blue, but at least my paint colors look good. My rule of thumb is look for CRI greater than 80 for least color distortion. If bulb manufacturers don't publish the color temperature and CRI, I don't buy! I'll be watching the bulb market periodically for new developments.

This post keeps haunting me as I have a project in the middle of electrical changes. $65-100 assuming its during normal rough-in electric. Not including adding a switch or circuit if also needed. Double for a special trip. Why? Figure out the hourly rate for a licensed electrician. It will depend on local labor costs, but the OP I believe is in the north bay area of CA. I'm in the Sacramento region. Part 1 - Placing the receptacle - figure up to 30 minutes to place the point, assuming ceilings up to 10' tall, running the cable back to the switch, fastening it to ceiling or wall members along the way, drilling studs to pull wire through, making up the wire at each end. Part 2 - Hanging the fixture at finish - maybe another 30 minutes including unboxing and installing bulbs. Most fixtures need a little time invested prior to hanging. Some are easy, some are not. Fixtures that take more than one person to hang or have a box of crystal to attach would be more. In all, an hour plus some materials IF its simple. In the past I've created standard costs for clients to help them understand ahead of time the cost of changes, its not always perfect, but many clients prefer simplified "menus" over accurate estimates. My goal is to recover costs. I'm more than happy to build a home without change orders. I've done one with a single $360 change order for flooring. Zero electrical changes. Then there are others.... Your electrician might be coy if he doesn't yet understand the entire scope of your request. A ceiling fan at 20' is significantly different than a wall sconce, maybe double even if you provide the scaffold. The best way to avoid changes is to study your plans and get the changes included during the design stage. Its also the best way to get your home done in a timely manner.