That is poor quality work. It looks like the finish was done when the material was still too wet. That could be because there is too much water added, which makes the concrete weak. Or it could be that the guy ran out of time at the end of the day. Did the workers mix the material on site? Site mixed concrete is often over-watered. If it was delivered pre-mixed, it is probably good concrete. You can verify by calling up the yard and confirming the specs of your particular batch. What kind of finish did you specify? If you had specified a certain level of smoothness, type of finish, or showed him the driveway next to yours and said "Make it like this" you would have a case to make him do it over. But I suspect there was not anything so specific in the contract, so you really can't do anything other than not recommend him to your friends and neighbors. The color will even out eventually. Concrete should be wetted a couple times a day for the first week as it cures, especially in the blazing sun. This helps prevent cracking and surface issues. Conctere likes to cure slowly. You could have the surface ground down to expose the aggregate and then polished smooth and sealed. That could look really neat. The concrete should cure for probably a month first.

SIGNIFICANT WATER POOLING ACROSS NEW DECK SURFACE We recently had a deck built with TimberTech Azek and it looks great. The product was recommended by our contractor and Big Creek Lumber. It is not cheap, nor was the installation ($40,000+). We had realistic expectations, but now we have problems. PROBLEMS: We have significant water pooling/cupping from a couple rains and some heavy mist. (I've also noticed dried dirt marks left behind when it finally dries, but that's a secondary issue.) CUSTOMER SERVICE: I reached out via phone to a representative from the website. He assured me that some "beading" was natural and over time this would stop. When it didn't stop, I reached out to my contractor because this is not "beading"; this is pooling. I waited a few more weeks and after more pooling from heavy mist and fog, I reached out to my contractor. My conscientious contractor said he has used this material before and has not seen or heard of the issue from any of his clients. He promptly gave me his rep's name and number. The rep said she's had no issues over the past 2 years and she would check—with someone—at the company. She emailed saying that "beading" was normal at first. I sent her deck photos of: Pooling/cupping from rain comparing my neighbor's dry, non-cupping, deck (with another composite-type product). So side by side, at the same time of day, with same weather conditions and sun exposure, my neighbor's deck was dry while mine was significantly pooling with standing water along the entire surface. I also sent a photo of significant pooling/cupping from heavy mist. I have asked the rep for a timeline of when this should stop or resolve itself. I haven't heard back yet and am concerned. A site search brought me to this page with the following: TimberTech's stated superiority over wood decking cupping. Product promotion that helps prevent cupping. Suggestions to dry your deck with a squeegee or mop when there is standing water. Dangers of "standing water," becoming slick (falling danger) and damage to the wood substructure. In summary, the site does not come out and admit pooling/cupping, but it talks about dangers and care of standing water. WHERE TO GO FROM HERE: I'll be calling the rep and asking for a site visit asap, unless anyone else has a suggestion.

Installing a deck on a roof usually involves laying down stringers in the direction of the fall,screwing the decking to the stringers not past the stringers into the roof. Building like this is completly different than building over dirt there will be the width of the stringers,usually 2x4 pt laying flat,that will allow 1 1/2''all along each stringer. The water is going to run off the roof not stay in the ground like normal deck building. With the normal 1/4'' gap between the decking and for a little saftey some solid brass floor vents instaled Garappa should be fine. J

Hi - My DH is a commercial roofer with 26 years experience. I'm typing this as he tells me what to pass along as his typing skills are ... First things first. Yes!! You absolutely need to have tapered polyiso insulation added. Without it you're opening yourself up to a lot of problems, not the least of which is the added weight of ponding water on the structure. As for you choice of products, much of it depends of the visibilty of the roof from the ground, upstairs windows etc. Most TPO roofs can look very nice, especially when there are no penetrations to have to flash. The draw back is it is not available to most contractors in less than full roll qty. It also requires the installer to have equipment/knowledge specific to this type of roof. If visibilty of the roof is not a factor, a black EPDM membrane will be very serviceable. EPDM is more readily available in smaller sizes and so should be less costly. Fully adhered would be the best choice. Torchdown, though effective, would be the least desirable IMHO. Playing with that amount of heat on an older structure is just not a good idea when other options are available. We just had an historical structure in our area burn to the ground from this very thing. Sorry this is so long winded. My DH sees a lot of mis-applied roofs and fixes poorly detailed ones all the time. Make sure you choose a reputable firm and insist that you have a Certificate of Insurance proving their insurance coverages.