We don't "seal" ipe, we just put UV oil to keep color.

So no need for underside application.

I waxed my ends and I'd have to say it has been very favorable. Each piece of wood is different so its hard to say that it might not have checked anyway.

Waxing takes very little time and effort. I'd do it again.

Good luck!

i waxed mine and many still spilt,some 10 inchs..

my ipe sat for 9 months in garage, so i dont think that means much on splits..

put your bark up on the ipe wood,if you can, that will help on warping..

only face screw as many said here..

Any wood that is wet on one side & has heat (the sun) on the other will cup towards the heat, which way you lay the grain won't matter. As John said, cross ventilation is a must on low laying decks. It helps when you screw the boards down put your screws 1/2" from the edge not 1 1/2" like I've seen some folks do, they hold better that way.

I've always used 1/8" bits using #8 2 1/2" screws.

Put your finish on the surface only. Which one you use doesn't effort the cupping.

Al

Thanks guys really appreciate all the advice.

my ipe sat for 9 months in garage, so i dont think that means much on splits..
===================================
Your garage is not the same humidity as outside.
You got to acclimate wood to where it is going to be installed. Set the wood outside, where the deck is going to be. Sticker it so air can vent through it. Set up a tepee of some sort to keep it from getting wet. We're looking for atmosphere acclimation. Do this for a week, before install.
You stacking it in your temperature garage did absolutely nothing.. because it was going outside.
It's like you acclimating yourself in your garage to prepare for hiking MT. Everest.
============
Also.... sealing all 4 sides of boards has been proven at forest agencies who experiment with this, with pictures, stats and gauges. If you seal just the top, moisture comes from exposed sides and bottoms and can't ventilate out uniformly, which creates warping and cupping.

BUT... huge but, this applies to other wooden projects you have. Such as a crate or something. Ipe is so dense that it doesn't even require staining if you don't want to.
You'd be splitting hairs arguing about the longevity of ipe being it goes for decades and decades.. stained or not.
Staining does help protect from UV damage and moisture.
I stained all 4 sides of my ipe. The top side entirely vanished in less than a year. I checked the bottom and it
is still perfectly intact.
So it goes to show that staining all 4 edges of ipe is not a bad idea... The top will have to be re-applied.. but the bottom keeps on going, giving you added moisture protection from underneath moisture vapors.

I have no cracks or warps and my spacing stayed nearly exactly as installed on day 1.

Your garage is the same humdity(long as its not raining) as outside plus its usually a little warmer that will help if a person wants to sticker up the decking for a while.

Cupping happens when its hot on top and cool down below,moisture from the ground,if the project is not vented,causes cupping.

If you seal all four sides of the decking x 10 with ipe A the adhesive can not be used,B moisture will be traped in a small way from the top and enhance the chance of cupping.

Puting finish on all 4 sides is a bad idea, NO Sh%t the finish is still good underneith GB Like the sun isent geting to it,Ka Daaaaaaaa.

Sorry Man,after 10 years of puting down ipe,including T&G ipe what your saying just is not true. J

Your garage is the same humdity(long as its not raining) as outside plus its usually a little warmer that will help if a person wants to sticker up the decking for a while.
====================

This is just plain wrong.
Humidity 101..... Humidity is moisture in the air. A garage has the same humidity as outside? Really?
..you don't think an enclosed structure is a barrier from moisture?..

1. example.........
   Try this experiment. Get up in the morning and look at your grass. Do you see that dew?..That's moisture.
   Then go in your garage and see if you see any dew or moisture on anything.
   2nd example.............
   Heat influences humdity. Indoors can affect air. This is why people sell humdifiers, so they can ADD moisture to the air. if this guy heats his garage at all, it definitely lowers the humdity and creates an entirely different atmosphere than outside.

Read Chapter 3 and 12 of the Forest Products Laboratory.

If you seal all four sides of the decking x 10 with ipe A the adhesive can not be used, moisture will be traped in a small way from the top and enhance the chance of cupping.
===========================
Not sealing all 4 sides of a board creates cupping.
Super explanation of the 4 side seal method detailed with experiments in the forest product lab booklet.
"Moisture will be trapped from the top.." makes absolutely no sense. lol

================
Puting finish on all 4 sides is a bad idea, NO Sh%t the finish is still good underneith GB Like the sun isent geting to it,Ka Daaaaaaaa.
======================================
ka daaaaaaaaaaa the sun isn't the only thing that removes finish. Water, water vapor all work on stain too.

===============

Sorry Man,after 10 years of puting down ipe,including T&G ipe what your saying just is not true.
===========================
10 years wow.. your experience almost equals a pair of my boots. lol
let me guess.. you face screw and glue everything because you run into cupping alot.
Another guess.. you acclimate your wood on site, but in a climate controlled facility different. Just great... hehe

my wood was in garage with door open on nice days..it went thru winter here in pa..

my splits may have been in wood before i put it down,that is what i feel..
pressure fron bending boards in place with bowrench did not help also and if split was there, it got bigger..

this is why ,i feel you must pick out your wood..i got a stack of junk..

yes, even with anchorseal on ends, it split but again, maybe splits were there before i cut it or bent it in..

i believve splits were there before it sat in my garage for 9 months..

Interesting points. Science (and experience?) vs. experience. On the finish 4 sides or not, I have a thought. Cupping happens when there is moisture below and dry (sun) on top. Decks near the ground are certainly going to have more moisture below. If sealing helps prevent dry-out, it may make sense on the sun side, and be unneccesary on the moisture side, i.e. finish on top only.

What UV oil do you use on ipe?

If sealing helps prevent dry-out, it may make sense on the sun side, and be unneccesary on the moisture side, i.e. finish on top only.
=============================
Nice theory.. but it has already been proven false right here.
http://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/fplgtr/fplgtr113/fplgtr113.htm

Chapter 13, page 13 of 38.
It states that 'For a coating to be effective in minimizing moisture content changes in wood, it must be applied to all surfaces, particularly the end grain. The end grain of wood absorbs moisture much faster than does the face grain, and finished generally fail in the end grain first. Coatings with good moisture-excluding effectiveness that are applied to ONE side of the wood will cause unequal sorption of moisture, increasing the likelyhood that wood will cup or warp.'

It's not my opinion... Just telling ya what it reads. As I said above, ipe is durable wood and this won't exactly apply... but it applies to other exterior wood projects you might construct.
Plywood for instance.. In a moisture example, if you create a box for outdoor use.. you wouldn't paint one side would you?..You'd paint it entirely. Front, back, edges. At least I hope you'd paint it entirely and not leave the edges bare and the bottom.. and sit it on the ground.

BUT... you all have your own ways.. and like I said ipe is forgiving so everyone can do their experiments on it and get away with ALOT without being called on it.

John's way to install ipe>>>> We put the ipe down right off the trailor no waiting no strickering it up.Using construstion adhesive gives a little hold down power but mainley it protects the fairly dry ipe from all the water in the new pt frame and helps leval out the bad milling pt lumber always has.

.40 pt means they force in .40 lbs of chem/water into each bd ft,or one ft of a 2x6, its mostly water. This water will start moving out very quickly after the decking is down the adhesive provides a stop for all this escaping moisture in the frist few important weeks.

Not providing Cross Ventalation, air in air out,convection curents and the ipe will not only cup it will rise up in complete rebellion. One of my Wallets covered up my frame vents with cement block and firewood that 1x6 ipe came up the full 5 1/2'' to form a triangle from the frame.An example of how much water moves out>> T&G 1x6 ipe very low to the ground ranging from 6'' to 12'' at the most built in a U shape with only one side for the screen vents several floor vents around close to the house. The first two weeks the floor vents,shpaed like china caps, driped water.

Most people finish all four sides to make the finish on top last longer, years ago a couple of my Contractor Buds tried this down the road the finish dident last any longer than mine finished on the top only. Now will that very thin layer of finish,after all the banging around/cuts on the miter saw carring it all over things like that protect the ipe from all that water the way adhesive will......

Good to see Ya again GB!! I wonder if I could drift on over to your Web site?? no telling what I could learn. J

Still got that ol' sarcasm John... I can't believe you still post here regularly.. you're reminding me a big hen sitting on a nest of eggs, protecting...lol
My website is in the state of Pennsylvania.. if you'd like to come visit I'll take you to roughly 5000 houses.
-----
You said...

We put the ipe down right off the trailor no waiting no strickering it up.
=====================
So you don't acclimate ipe at all?

Handling and Storage:
Ipe is supplied as partially air-dried and is suitable for outdoor use. Ipe should be kept dry, covered and stored out of direct sunlight. It should be allowed to acclimate to local humidity conditions, and stacked on blocks up off the ground, with thin strips placed between layers to allow for adequate ventilation. By acclimating Ipe to local conditions, prior to installation, your decking will be more uniform. Due to naturally occurring alkali present in Ipe, which gives Ipe its long lasting durability, avoid prolonged inhalation of sawdust, wear eye protection and wash up thoroughly after handling.

=========
SHOW me ONE... ONE link from any ipe source in the entire world... from any mill.. from any professional wood company that suggests unloading it off a trailer.. and installing it...
Find one person or expert in the entire world that agrees with you and I'll hand you a silver hammer.

btw, good to see you again... I agree with you on 95% of everything except acclimating ipe and sealing procedures. You're a good guy, don't hate me for being lippy at times.. hehe

gorilla,
good to see you here again...(not really :-)
I never acclimate my Ipe to the site, but that's not to say it's a bad idea. the thing is, with us guys that actually build decks for a living, we don't have time for acclimatation(is that even a word?)anyway, you wanted to see a link from a professional (deck builder). well...I'm that missing link.

who are you anyway? you come quoting sources. we're out there building decks, year after year...we have the experience that you bureaucrats don't have.

rant over...

steve

Brooklyn, what's your take on the finish 4 sides (6 with the ends) vs. the top only?

alb,
I'm conflicted about the "finish all sides" controversy. When I was a cabinet maker, there was never a question about finishing all sides...especially with doors. If you don't do it, your doors will cup and warp. In Bruce Hoadley's book "Understanding wood", he says that the only thing worse than no moisture barrier is an uneven moisture barrier.

With Ipe decking, it might be different, as nothing will penetrate very deeply. So if you seal top and bottom, the top coat will fade away in one season, but the bottom coat will last for many years...and then you actually have achieved an uneven moisture barrier.

I don't like presealing the bottom of my decking, as I don't like to handle it. With low decks, I never get another chance. I do make sure to coat the ends, and I flood on my finish so it coats the sides (looks better). Unfortunately, flooding the top makes the bottom (when visible) look bad...in that case, I might finish the bottom if I like the client, or made a good profit. Otherwise, I leave the rest of the sealer, and suggest the client does it.

I'm no expert at finishing, but I understand wood. Now you know what I do. You make the call.

steve

Thanks, Steve.

gorilla,
good to see you here again...(not really :-)
I never acclimate my Ipe to the site, but that's not to say it's a bad idea. the thing is, with us guys that actually build decks for a living, we don't have time for acclimatation(is that even a word?)anyway, you wanted to see a link from a professional (deck builder). well...I'm that missing link.

who are you anyway? you come quoting sources. we're out there building decks, year after year...we have the experience that you bureaucrats don't have.

rant over...

steve
====================
There has to be some sort of psychological name for guys who agree with you, then admit they don't have a clue to what they are talking about... and then taking a shot at someone else... Steve's post is a classic example of this. Oh the irony.
Steve, you admit in 2 posts here you don't know about finishing or acclimating. I have yet to see anyone list one source for not acclimating ipe.
But... if you look for websites and experts TO acclimate... you find 10's of thousands. So what does that say about your opinion on this subject?...

Then Steve says...
'who are you to come quoting sources' lol.. I'm sorry but why did you go rude about it?.. Why do you even post here if you're not trying to help people? I can see you having a problem with what I'm saying and listing reasons and sources as to why you disagree.
But you admit you don't know.. and then ask who I am? I'm a home builder in Pennsylvania. From the Pocono's to Allentown. I build houses and decks.
I'll tell you what.. I never seen such arrogance from guys who just build decks.. and think they are so smart.
The truth is you don't know about acclimating.. you shouldn't even be building decks. Types like that are the ones who work with ipe so it covers their mistakes and errors and screw-ups.
I bet you face scre not for reasons of stability, but because when you guys try anything else it warps, cracks, spreads and looks like crap.
Steve, I saw your work, and it's atrocious.. You're a sub-par builder who is basically a hobbyist who somehow came to think he's a professional.
Build a house with a deck, and impress me. Any hobbyist can build a deck.. and have their errors canceled out by using iron wood ipe.

So.. to reiterate...you guys want to jump into my advice givings.... be prepared for an azzz whooping. You guys have no life and live here.. and think you'll bully other people in the forums... because I seen you do it before.. but it won't work on me. In fact.... I'm going to make it a point to watch you guys and your advice... mostly error-riddled.. and I won't let it slide like I usually do. You guys have no power in real life and think you'll find it here , talking down to newbies.. and when you're exposed, you showcase your attitudes.
All you guys do is peddle your wares, list websites.. and peddle and sell.
What's ironic, is you pushers and peddlers... attack others for selling something when you're the biggest peddlers around.

------
Good to see you guys too... Let the fun begin!!!!!

Gorilla,

If this is your idea of fun, then you need to get a life...you're no fungi.

You dissect my messages here, yet you only see what you want to. I know all about acclimating wood, and I finish all my decks. I just don't have time to acclimate wood, or the space. My decks are all built in an urban setting...no driveways, no sprawling yards. Frequently, I stack my boards in my client's living room. To get to a backyard, I have to carry all materials thru a house, or haul them up to a roof with ropes. So don't imagine you know what I know, until you've walked in my shoes for a week...and what do I know? well, I've been a woodworker for over 30 years. That includes being a cabinet maker, a trim carpenter/mechanic on renovations, and I even built 3 houses in Costa Rica from 1978-1981...without power tools, as there was no electricity back then.

so you're a home builder...I thought you built gorillas. Home builders around here are guys that hire lots of subs to do the work, and skim 20% off the top. BTW...what's your website? You've seen my work? have you been to Brooklyn? or did you look at my website? atrocious work? that's funny, as I get emails and phone calls everyday from people that love my website, and want me to build their projects. Unfortunately for them, I'm just a 2 man operation, and I'm booked for the next few months already.

I don't have to come here to give advice. I don't get jobs from the forum, and nobody pays me for a free consult. I like hanging out here when I have time (usually very early in the morning), as I have decks to build. You show up every once in a while to start up a flame war, as that's how you get off. as I said earlier, get a life dude...

steve
www.urbanexteriors.biz (what's yours?)

Gorilla,

Its good to see someone else standing up with a valid opinion from not only an experience point of view but also with an experimental published point of view. Anyone else have a published point of view one that has been proven correct with an experiment and criticism from a group of peers? For all of you "Contractors" out there who dont have "Time" to install a deck correctly like letting it acclimate, makes a (as John calls me ) Wallet such as my self wonder what other corners you cut and how valid you opinion are. You guys make me laugh Im a stay home Mother and dont have nearly enough time to get on this forum as much as you busy buys Deck Builders.

Brooklyn How Would One Go About Building a Gorilla ?

Joyce,

"Brooklyn How Would One Go About Building a Gorilla?"

I don't know Joyce...I don't even know how to build decks. If you want to know about cutting corners, I can answer all your questions. I'm good at that. If you want to know about building gorillas, ask a gorilla builder. He is the one with experience.

Brooklyn (actually steve)

http://www.urbanexteriors.biz/photos1.html
This is Steve's website... particularly the arbors.

Steve, your arbor work is terrible.. I'm sorry, but wow...
and no it's nothing to be heartbroken about. You do play a wonderful victim though. But it can change in a second by simply taking a day to learn how to improve that particular technique. Doctors, teachers..everyone goes for inservice.. Are you above it?.. You never upgrade?.. What you see is what you get?.. You're a qualified builder who simply needs a few hints and you'd take to it like a duck in water.. if you choose to. That's up to you. I don't know if you have the personality to even believe in the concept.. because you come off like a huge baby here who just gets mad.. then plays victim and sulks.

http://www.mrdeck.com/renditions_of_the_arbordiculous.htm
Look at this website for some help. I have a link of the website which the guy refers to ridiculous arbors. I'm sure you'll see many that resemble your work in this category. I'm just wind in cyberspace. So forget my comments, but you can improve this area.
-----------
Moving on... all i did was talk about acclimating wood in the area of installation. Acclimating is simply allowing the boards to regulate to the given surroundings of installation. That does not mean a heated garage. If someone thinks a heated garage has the same moisture content as the backyard, they need to take some time from this website and go hang out at a weather site for awhile.

This is where you guys got livid. John talks about stickering constantly.. and then admits here he installs right off the delivery truck. So.. ????????... I also asked for one link to back up this theory.. and if you notice... there is absolutely no follow-up and no link. Nothing.. zilch... empty.. vacancy open...lol We got an empty chair...

Then you Steve... you Steve.. you particularly get my goat.. because you usually come into the messages calmly... sound thoughtful... You talk about the importance of acclimating.. so a customers wood doesn't warp, bend, spread and swell.. and then say..."but I have no time to do it properly"..
If I paid you several thousands of dollars... and you couldn't allow my wood to acclimate properly.. based on not having time?.. What do you think a customer would think of hearing that?..
Doesn't this thought ever come into mind? When you have several projects going.. you deliver, wait, then install.
In your case, in NY..I would assume you are sorta close to the area.. and when you pick up the lumber from an indoor facility, you could store it at your residence or have arrangements to at least have it exposed to the current NY area, outside.. So, when you go for the installation it's acclimated and much more stable.

As far as sealing all edges.. Yes, I know it's a pain..,.. and as I stated, with ipe, it's forgiving and durable and you can easily get away with putting it on raw.
But to improve moisture resistance to wood in general, you should seal all 6 sides. 2 faces and 4 edges.
This makes a complete moisture-resistance barrier. I gave the link to the forest department who dedicates years to studying this and testing it.
KEEP IN MIND.. I only say this because people build boxes, fences, benches.. and other things made up of all types of wood. They should be aware of full coverage protection... and also keep in mind, that ipe is durable and can be left entirely alone, or partially stained or fully stained. ONLY because it's so durable... not because of you guys making up fake moisture theories with zero references... except for the guy in the mirror.
========
So... Steve, no.. I don't come for 'flame wars'... I state an opinion... with reference, and it's you guys who get sarcastic, unprofessional, don't back up anything in literature or source... because you're too arrogant to think people deserve to see any reference or backup.. when you go off on tangents and theories.
You're the one who sounded thoughtful... pondered the sealing theories.. and then, when I was on the edge of my seat, enjoying your thoughtfulness... you turn... You have this knack Steve...lol.. to sound nice, thoughtful, professional.. and then say, 'who are you to come here with links, sources, opinions??"... It's like...WHAT??.. Where did that come from?.. and why?... You make this quick U-turn and because volatile.... hence, drawing me into this so called 'flame war'..
================
Anyhow, I seen the personalities here.. I seen you guys allign with PROVEN peddlers on this website.. and you know who they are... Even the peddlers know who they are because they are itching at their keyboard wanting to type, 'are you referring to me?"... if you think that, yes I'm referring to you 's'...
===========
And lastly, for your entertainment.. I LUV Steve, I LUV John.. I LUV all you brothers in construction.. I HOPE you guys don't take any of our run-ins personally. I don't. I laugh when I see you guys talk with some spit.. It shows you care about your art.. So here's some beer, plam leaves, doves.. and I hope we all learn from our arguments... NOTHING PERSONAL PLEASE.

I also have to thank Joyce for keeping it all in perspective, cutting through all the bickering and seeing my intentions were simply to keep us all grounded in having sources and tests to back-up theories.
I'd also like to thank the oscars themselves.. for holding this event... and awarding me this ratings trophy. Without them, this wouldn't be possible.
Also, the wood association of America, the trees.. which none of this would be possible.. the wood cutters, the truck drivers... Thank you guys...The shippers, the docks... too many too list. They all made this possible.. again, have a good night... "waves trophy, walks off"

Gorilla,

Thank You for making my day....lol

Gorilla & Joyce Builder,

You 2 should get a room, or do you already share one?...or are you actually joyce54?

BTW...I'm still waiting for your website...

steve
www.iwannaseeyourwork.com
&
www.toomuchrumafterahotdayatwork.com

Brook your a sore loser huh ? Cant take being proved wrong. Its a shame that you dont have time to build decks the proper way because you have to make sure you get your garden web time in. Priority problems in your life ? Try being an Adult grow up and get your priorities straight and try letting wood acclimate and not cutting corners on your clients homes. To be honest with you thats why my husband and my self built our own decks because of Scam artists such as your self who call them selfs contractors. Ive seen your work and wouldnt let you come close to a tool on my property. I understand that you would like to see the work that has been done to my house so that you can justify the way you treat me, but I dont want to embarrass you as I know youre a "Professional" and im just a "wallet". Sweet heart as a "wallet" what is my need to advertise my husband and mine's work? I dont know who you think Iam but im not a contractor and I dont plan on building any one else's deck so if you would like, your more than welcome to come to my beautiful house in San Diego where my husband would like to have a few choice words with you but then you can see the projects that we have been working on. Some of us in the world actually do lead busy lives I dont have time to start a web site just for you hunny, sorry, I kind of have priorities that take up more of my time like raising a family then making some Yank contractor happy. This site has seriously gone down hill when some one such as Gorilla with published creditable information is black balled because he stood up against your wrong way of doing business. This site was very informative when I got started building and now its just a place for contractors who dont have any thing better to do (like building) but fight with each other via the Internet. Good Day To All Take Care Stay Safe.

I have to ask what you find about Brooklydecks work that is substandard? Style is a personal taste not an indication of quality. Personally when I look at the stuff that Mr Deck has done, while I can appreciate the attention to detail it must take to create it, I find most of it too ornate for my tastes - I would call some of it ugly.

A scam artist? That's a pretty serious allegation which I'm sure you really have no true knowledge of.

Personally I appreciate the input from all these guys.

Hi everyone!
I have a question about IPE. I just moved into my home last year. The house has a deck and I'd like to clean and stain it within the next couple of weeks. How can I find out what material the deck is made of - if it's an IPE deck? Do I need to be able to answer accurately to pick a suitable stain?

I like Steve's work. I'm puzzled by someone who has enough time to build a website dedicated to beating up arbors that don't meet his taste. Sure, there are some design points on the site, but wow, that site is really a labor of love (hate).

Steve's arbors and pergolas look really nice in the photographs. I would like to hear about the specific defects in the workmanship that Gorilla observed. Are we picking on architecture or craftmanship? I assume Gorilla is a very talanted architect who works as a general contractor and homebuilder. Steve is a master cabinetmaker and finish carpenter. Look at the joinery on the rail detail depicted on Steve's website. Anyone with more wits than the average housewife (Joyce) can appreciate the quality. As a finish carpenter who has worked in San Francisco, I can really identify with the space limitations encountered when working in densely populated urban areas. It is really the biggest challenge we face when working in The City. You have to plan every move based on the limited space available. When you have decades of experience in your trade, the workmanship comes second nature. There is no point in picking apart other poeple's fine work when you know it is quality. Style or architectural preference is unique to every person. If Gorilla has to attack Steve's work it shows a lack of confidence in his own craftmanship. You may be a "homebuilder" but how many homes have you built from start to finish single-handedly? You rely on skilled craft people like Steve and John to make your visions a reality. Lets see some pictures of stuff you actually made with your own two hands. With your eye for architectue and Steve's carpentry skill, you could produce really great work. Be supportive, if you have a disagreement about finishing Ipe, don't let the discussion unravel into personal attacks.
By the way, it seems like Gorilla's experience with Ipe is limited. I have done 6 projects with Ipe over the past 4 years. (working solo), so my experience is also quite limited, but I have seen how this wood performs over time.
1. It won't hold a finish on the weather exposed side for long.
2. The acrylic (water) based stains specifically designed for Ipe are really just a paint that coats the surface. I tried Flood Pro supreme performance and it lasted about 2 years. The finish is starting to wear off in places and you can see the gray weathered Ipe shining through. The finish also detracted from the natural beauty of Ipe, the grain pattern is not as prominent, and it certainly does not have the "wet look" of new Ipe that is desired by most customers. I am going to strip the entire finish with Jasco paint and epoxy remover and then use the TDR system to clean and brighten the wood, before using the TWP penetrating oil recommended by John Hyatt. His decks finished with TWP have the desired "wet look" and he claims 3 or 4 year performance with the TWP.
3. The quality of Ipe wood on the market varies. The low quality stuff is often bowed, checked and is often much lighter in weight than the quality dense boards. You can pick through a stack and see and feel the differences. With good quality Ipe, the stack you pick through should be 90 or 95% "perfect boards" straight, heavy but not wet, and with no end checks. If you are putting aside many boards looking for the perfect ones, buy you wood somewhere else.
4. I don't know about anchorseal for the ends of boards. I see ones at the lumberyard end sealed that have huge checks. I have cut unchecked Ipe, and it instantly checked at the cut end. How fast could the anchorseal work? I have other very short cuts of Ipe that never check without putting anything on the ends. If the wood is going to check, it will do whatever it wants. Force a bowed board into straight position, and it will probably check in time. The point here is to but your Ipe from a reputable source and visually inspect each piece.

That is my meager experience with this beautiful wood. If you are a carpenter with versed talent, give Ipe a shot. Do not waste your money on this stuff if you are a Home Depot DIY person. And listen to the people who work with this stuff ALL THE TIME. One or two projects completed in the last 12 months is not experience with Ipe. Do not ask sales people for advice, they have no idea what they are talking about when it comes to Ipe.

Aidan,Folks like these two drift by on every site now and then not to worry, a lot of the time its the same person signing on as different posters. Over at Contractor Talk they woudent last 2 sec.

I bet these two would really get upset if I had mentioned I steam bend ipe right off the truck as well.

Anyway if you poke around over here, I have pretty much given up recomending twp because I get so much flack But you seen to be the straight up kind. One more time>>> I build coats with twp 100 series,its not so easy to do with the 500 series, I dont prep the new decks or lay them up for a waiting period. First coat right away,second coat in a couple of weeks, then start building coats. The more coats the longer it takes to set up so be ready to spend some time and work if you want to get that 3-5 year finish.

If your thinking of doing some trim projects in the shop keep in mind twp has got to be exposed to the sun to set up you can keep a piece in the shop for ever and the twp will still be tacki. Iv always thought a person could set up some uv lamps and make it work inside but I havent had the neep to try it.

Thanks for the input! John Mon

Aidan,

Thanks for dredging up this thread (not). It was better left buried a year ago. I was attacked by a guy that builds gorillas (yet he never did leave a web address where we could view these gorillas. I'm pretty sure that Joyce was one of his gorilla creations.

Anyway, thanks for the kind words. My arbors and pergolas are what they are...not particularly creative. Most are what my clients (or their architects/designers) specified, or something I came up with to fall within their budgets...all perfectly executed.

You made some valid points about Ipe, end sealing, and finishes...all of which I have been preaching here for a few years...so I have to say you seem to be an intelligent woodworker :-)

I did get a few chuckles re-reading these messages. Only problem is that GB/Joyce may return.

Welcome to the forum, and a happy cinco de mayo. I gotta go refill my rum cocktail. A bent elbow to all you woodworking, sawdust makers. hasta luego

steve

Another Big Bent Elbow to the Steve with the Joe Crow!!

Lets Go Get Em Bro, the season started out a little slow but I got three wating on me,two with S American,one with incence cedar all of them in the 20 range.

Life Is Good. John Mon

I'm sorry, this is just a funny read. I like the passion in the Gorilla's unsubstantiated rants. "I can't back it mind you, but I'm right". It's just a good read. What happened to those two?