Hi, My parents have a contemporary split level with redwood siding built in 1976. They've really let it run down over the years, and now I'm trying to help them renovate it. We're starting with the outside. I'm having some trouble deciding what we should try to keep and what we should try to update and how to mesh 1976 with 2007. The house was custom built, so it isn't the typical split level that might come to mind. I've tried finding some resources on the web, but most of what I could find relates to California modern homes. My dad is really adamant about keeping his redwood siding, so everything else has to go with that. I'd like to replace railings, lighting fixtures, maybe e even the dilapidated balconies. Any resources anyone can think of? Pictures? Ideas? I know this is kind of broad. I'll try and take some pictures the next time I'm over there. Thanks!

Hi Roulie, I was looking at the beautiful blue kitchens in your thread about painting your cabs, and went looking for this thread for more pictures and info about your kitchen. (I would try the SW Naval from Deb's island on one of your trial boards, it just rocks!) I have an opinion about the hole in your counter. I love the idea of using stainless, and if the Jenn-aire that was removed is the griddle next to the big Garland, I would suggest that you have someone come and fabricate a stainless steel cover that simply butts up to the range and covers the whole counter top surface, front overhang and all, for the length of counter top hole in the wood. That will give you a bulletproof landing spot for messy cooking. YOU may not need it, but you have at least one young person, and a messy spill on your butcher block with a stainless steel insert in the hole in the wood will be a lot harder to clean up than on a seamless sheet of steel. Have the fabricator match the finish as much as possible to that of the Garland, and it may not seem so much like another added texture in the room. It also occurred to me, looking at the photo, that there does not seem to be a range hood. Is that a problem for you, or do you not put a lot of grease into the air when you cook? A metal fabricator could fashion one to fit below that cabinet, and you could put the guts in the cab. Just something to think about if you have someone out to see about the hole in the counter. I went looking for your thread about your butcher block counter refinishing. The problem with wood near your sink area made me think of old porcelain 1920s to 1930s sinks as a solution. In my first search result I saw the one linked below, and it fit the one in my mind's eye perfectly. Something like this will better protect that beautiful refinished counter of yours. It prevents any more deterioration where the wood meets the back splash, as well, and does not go very far up the wall. Check out the link below. I think I am interested in your project because it reminds me of my own. I refinished a used bead board kitchen almost three years ago.I have an island top that is 25 years old sitting in my garage that is very similar to your butcher block. I did not use it when I bought it with my Green Demolition kitchen. I refinished my beaded-board oak cabinets from GD by hand sanding and re-staining them with a creamy oil-based stain that my local Sherwin Williams mixed up for me. I could not get a "pickled" stain in water-base. My routed-out lines were far closer together than yours, but you have a LOT of cabs to do, too. If I had to do it again, I think I might paint. I do not have tons of wood grain around like you do, and really like the grain peeking through, so staining was a good choice for me at the time. My problem was in getting the stain to stick to end grain. All my rounded edges exposed me to end grain, but I did not realize that this was my problem at the time. Stain did not stick well on the perimeter of all of my 34 doors and 20 drawers, and I have a rubbed-through look in places. I also have a few pieces that are a different color. Don't know if it was a stirring problem, a real color difference in the first stain can, or what. By the time I was done, I just did not want to know! Part of my problem is that I have asthma and had to wear terrible face masks to keep the VOCs out of my lungs. I had to work outside because of the fumes, too. In the steamy heat of the summer of 2010, I had little patience for problems and just let the color differences get by me. I just wanted it DONE. If you can paint with latex, it is a lot less bother and mess than what I went through! Oil-based stains are still the most common with wood. Here is a picture of my doors before I refinished them. If you want to see my kitchen (minus the missing cab door that we found in the carpenter's shop 6 months after I finished staining everything else), you can go to my website and see it at www.pbase.com/nancyb/image/127230055 Here is Here is a link that might be useful:

Roselee- they have more energy than experience at DIY especially when it comes to landscaping. I know I did projects 10 or 15 years ago that i wouldn't think twice about hiring done today- mostly because I didn't realize what I was getting myself in to. But they've just finished some other projects that had to be hired out and are trying to do things that they can when it comes to the yard. I just don't want them to put a lot of sweat equity into this, and not have it look like they want at the end. Good point about the sprinklers. I wonder if they could be capped off somehow for now, but when they have a final layout maybe the water access lines could be converted to drip irrigation. Hmmm. Lynn Marie- I'm not sure you can call the mountain laurel healthy. It has a weird shape. I didn't include this picture initially because the lighting is horrible, but it shows a different angle for the mountain laurel. The trunk comes up at about 45 degrees from the ground and then 2 or three much smaller trunks shoot off straight up. It almost looks like someone tried cutting it down years ago, then it came back. Or maybe someone backed into it getting out of the driveway- it's pretty close to it. I guess you could limb it up some, but it would bug me if I was trying to back out. It's weird because the rest of the trees have been pruned and shaped pretty well You guys have made some great suggestions. Appreciate you looking it over and posting your thoughts. Thanks- Lisa

Hi Anne, The vertical house numbers are definitely a more contemporary look, as are the larger coach lights. Here is a recommendation for 1/4-1/3 the height of your garage door -- the planters help accent the vertical lines. I would change the light at your front door also. There are several options for vertical address numbers. Here is a company that makes them. There are also separate numbers you can buy. Not sure I would do both the larger lights and the vertical numbers, because I'd be afraid of ending up with numbers where they are difficult to read because they are too low (once they're installed under the coach lights). You can measure and see how it would end up.