The cuttings do not need direct sunlight, but bright room light from the windows and a temperature above 65 degrees. Direct sunlight would probably harm them. A plastic bag or high dome seed trays will help to keep the humidity up until adequate roots take hold.

While compost is wonderful stuff, and I wouldn't dream of growing tomatoes at home other than in a bed or container chock full of decomposed organic material, one still should remember that no nutrients whether "organic" or "chemical" are taken up and used by the plant until they have broken down to their elemental form ... their base chemical form ... nitrogen, phosphorus, potash, mangnesium, calcium, iron, sulfur, whatever. As said in a post above, the nutrients must be water soluable before they are of any use to the plant. One also should remember that while the compost is breaking down, certain organic components like leaves, bark chips, sawdust, and other rough cellulose materials will rob the compost of nitrogen as the rotting process advances. So, some finished compost, while looking wonderful and providing a fantastic growing medium, may be deficient in nitrogen and other essential nutrients for that matter ... and the addition of those particular nutrients is advisable. The choice of whether you add organic-source or chemical-source boosters is yours. But regardless the source, you should provide the initial needs before and when you plant the seedlings, and then feed your tomatoes what they indicate a need for as the season progresses. Bill

There are multiple issues with hood cfm and MUA requirements that need to be addressed, including: Safety is dependent on whether the fan at full power with windows however you will open them without fail causes the house pressure to fall below about 0.03 inches of water; but(!), this is only an issue if there are combustion appliances that can be back-drafted by the pressure drop or if there is an operating open fireplace. A cracked window is going to provide only modest MUA cfm at low pressure drop. A wide open window (with screen) is needed for larger capacity ventilation if the pressure is to stay below the threshold of back-drafting. Restricted MUA causes a pressure drop which in turn reduces the capacity of the ventilation system. There is always MUA for whatever flow rate the hood actually achieves. For part of the year in most of the USA and Canada, the outside temperature is low enough that normal household room heating capacity (BTU/hr/room with window open) will not be sufficient for the larger ventilation fan capabilities. This means that it will get cold inside for the duration of grilling or wokking unless a blower supported MUA system is used with a heat exchanger. To keep rising effluent from curling out of the hood due to its momentum and "reflections" in the internal hood geometry, it is necessary for the air velocity established by the exhaust fan in the vicinity of the baffles (or in mesh hoods at the bottom) to equal the velocity of the rising cooking effluent. Because the fan air velocity will be about the same over the entire critical area, the flow rate (cfm) has to be about equal to the effluent velocity times the area. (There are fluid dynamics effects around baffles that make this kind of rule of thumb somewhat approximate.) People have different tolerances for how much odor they want in their houses, how much grease and moisture escape they will tolerate, and how cold they will allow their house to get (or their guests to get). This leads to a wide range of views on how well their venting system works. If limited by aesthetics, architecture, and cost, as most of us are, then one can only do his affordable best and accept less than perfect results. kas My Clippings has more on this subject

I don't understand how it could damage the swg...I have Goldline Aqualogic...you clean it by soaking it in rather high mix acid/water...how does that make sense? Anyway, I recently drained half the pool and refilled due to high calcium hardness. I've been adjusting all chem's including a gallon a week of acid while the pump and swg are running. I add above return farthest from skimmer and suction points, and make sure the navigator isn't immediately nearby. I also turn on the water features to maximize circulation and even distribution as quickly as possible. Having a "cell power error" w/ swg currently, but Goldline rep doesn't see an issue w/ my chem method. Is Jandy that much different? Hope you can solve the prob... Ralph