Hi you.. I don't use the FE and Neem at once..If I have a severe break out, that is if, I use just the Neem and treat all my plants at night or early am, out from the sun.. I use the FE as a preventative which so far has worked wonders for me.. I had to use the Neem on plants I forgot to spray with FE all summer, and use it on plants that got attacked by someone else's plants infested at work.. Use them separately, Neem only with an infestation you can not get rid of, and the FE as a general spray for a preventative, although I know some that use FE and to smother the sucking insects that will not handle the oils.I spray in the am, even when the sun on them with the FE, and my plants never burn..I suppose the oil on Neem is much mr potent and stronger... Now in relation to your plants, I would spray them all with Neem only. Put a 1/2 teaspoon of soap, dish washing unless you have natural, and shake it well...Spray the underneath and tops of leaves. Spray the whole trunk, branches and pots.. If Rhizzo sees this thread, she may have a bit more to add.. DO NOT SPRAY this Neen oil during the hot part of the day, Tonight is good, and so is the am..I wish you had coco wet..I put this in everything to help improver sticking and wetting of anything I ned to stay on the leaves.. After a few days, start spraying down your plants at least once a week with FE.. Let us know what you do and take pictures, ok..:-) Mike

Bon, Really, it isn't even time to put any warm-season edible plants in the ground yet except for corn in far southern OK, but I wanted to start some zinnias and basil and a few other warm-season things indoors. I don't even remember the OSU-recommended dates to start putting warm-season plants and seeds in the ground---probably April 10th for most things. Since I plant by the combination of soil temp, air temp and forecast, I don't remember the OSU dates as well as I should. I've got everything in the ground that I can plant at the present time except for a few flats of flowers I'm raising from seed, so I'll play around with starting a few herbs and flowers that I can put in the ground 4 to 6 weeks from now. Having had high temperatures this week in the mid- to upper-80s, I am worried we'll get too hot too early so went ahead and planted beans and corn this week. It is early for the beans, but we are unseasonably warm and so is our soil, so I think I'll get away with planting them early. It still is too cool for peppers, melons, okra, squash, cucumbers, southern peas and the like. Some years it gets so hot so early down here that plants that are heat-sensitive, like beans, start dropping their blossoms almost as soon as they start making blooms, so if there is anything I'll push in the ground a tiny bit early, it is bush beans. I don't rush pole beans or Lima beans quite as much as they don't seem to tolerate being planting a touch early as well as the bush beans do. Most of the veggie gardens we drive by on a routine basis on our way to town are either plowed or rototilled and bare, some with big puddles of water standing in them, so not many folks here have planted anything yet. A couple of them aren't even plowed or rototilled yet. I wouldn't have planted anything if I didn't have raised beds that dry out more quickly. I wouldn't dare put anything in the grade level soil yet because it likely would just rot. Even folks near us who usually get their onions in the ground here no later than the OSU recommended dates (and often much earlier) don't have onions in the ground yet. As far as Fred and I know, I'm the only person who's planted onions already, and it is getting terribly late in southern OK to plant short-day types. This may be the first year I've ever had my onions in the ground before everyone else. I just keep an eye on my soil temperatures, my air temperatures and our 8-10 day forecast when making planting decisions. I won't plant if the soil is too cold for whatever it is I want to plant because seeds won't germinate and transplants won't grow while the soil is too cold. Our soil has been shockingly warm this week in the raised beds, which made planting beans and corn possible. I need to tackle the weeds growing in the mulch in the grade level areas because those areas are too wet to work so they haven't been touched since autumn and are growing a healthy crop of cool-season weeds. It is warm enough that 4 o'clocks, daturas and the dreaded bind weed are sprouting. Ugh. I hate bind weed. Today is so windy and cold that I may not go out to the garden at all except to harvest asparagus. I might spend tomorrow catching up on the weeding in the grade level soil if it is dry enough. It it is too wet and big clumps of soil come up with the weeds, I'll just have to wait another day or two for it to dry out more. I will tackle the clean-up of the back garden next week. It is all grade-level soil with no raised beds, so has been too muddy for me to venture into it at all. The perennials back there are up and growing well, though, so apparently the constant moisture hasn't bothered them. So, what's a gardener to do when they can't garden? Starting seeds indoors is about all that's left to do on a day like this.

Thanks, Karenseb! Even with a credit, I think we have to do something now anyway - since right now there is no toilet in there, and the old tile was loose where the leak had been. I wonder if that leads me back to just putting in the new (but not overly pricy) tile and a middle-of-the-road white toilet, since they'd probably use white for any future work. But I think to advertise it as a 2.5 bath house, a toilet has to actually be in place? Kind of a circular problem - I'd rather just give them the cost of any repairs in cash, but some repairs may be needed to sell it at all... Thanks!

Moni I had no idea about any of this! Anyhow, I'm glad you're back where you are safe and sound. Kudos that you listened to your inner voice and did what was right for you. I'm very sorry you had to go thru this heartache, but you are ok, and that's what's important. Best of luck to you Moni. You are going to be just fine!!