Here is pic of lightwell roof. Window sits above roof about 4". Roofer said he wants to come approximately 6-12" (resize window) and tear out stucco around window and put some type of flashing around bottom of window and cover up with stucco. He will also put new roof drain in and tar/gravel composite on top of roof. It seems very thorough; however he wants $4,000 bucks. Any suggestions? http://arandolph1.photosite.com Here is a link that might be useful: http://arandolph1.photosite.com

Actually, the roofing company has been very proactive in trying to fix the issue. They have paid to replace damaged carpet and furniture and are willing to pay to have the walls cut open, repaired and painted. So I am quite satisfied that they are working to fix the problem. Energy- the way the room, roof and attic are constructed make it extremely difficult to get close to the area of the leak. The leak is in a valley very close to where the edges of the roof and exterior wall of the house meet.

Between the bottom row of brick and the top row of block, I'd cut a slot for metal flashing in the mortar with a grinder and bed the flashing in silicone.

and Zahner Zinc could possibly stamp out some custom metal roofing if your roof pitch is steep enough. Or a decent sheet metal shop can bend up sheets of aluminum and do flat lock similar to millenium but in larger pieces. It's hard to get good installation with metal. They like to use a lot of caulk joints, which defeats the purpose The aluminum standing seam they keep telling you're thinking of is "Galvalume" style which is steel electro plated with aluminum somehow. Galvalume is still "ferrous" and would rot by the ocean if it found a good galvanitic reaction with something. What you meant in your title was "non-ferrous" . If you have a roof made from stainless or a non-ferrous metals like zinc, copper, aluminum, and it looks correct to someone who knows, there is no guessing as to how long it will last undisturbed.