Poured concrete overlay -stamped and stained
nhb22
12 years ago
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Comments (30)
cearbhaill (zone 6b Eastern Kentucky)
12 years agolast modified: 9 years agochispa
12 years agolast modified: 9 years agoRelated Discussions
Why can you pour concrete over concrete?
Comments (28)I have a 4 foot by 8 foot front porch that is very uneven. It slopes about 2.5 to 3 inches from one side to the other. Can I add a concrete overlay, starting with 1 inch on left to 4 inches on right? I have been told yes and no. Most recently, I was told I could do it if I used wire and anchors in the old slab....See MoreDIY Counters Re-do: Concrete Overlay, Stainless?
Comments (4)Yes I poured concrete over tile. You don't need to remove your laminate, just sand it to scuff it up so the concrete can bond better, and use a repair-grade concrete that is meant to bond to things. If the laminate is damaged or easy to remove by all means removed it but I think you'd need to add a waterproof layer over the MDF layer since concrete is porous, you'd get moisture causing swelling. I poured the concrete right over the ceramic tile countertop which was already waterproof. Where I switched out my sink, I had to add in a plywood section since the old sink was wider, so I covered that with waterproof building paper (used for roofing etc). You could cover MDF or particle board with roofing paper to prevent moisture intrusion if you need to remove the laminate. Personally I would just sand/scuff up the laminate and use the type of concrete made for repairs to horizontal and vertical surfaces (it usually contains polymers that make it stronger and bond to substrate more easily). Basically I build molds using 1x4's, sprayed them with cooking spray to prevent cement adhering, then mixed up the concrete I used "Cement All Rapid Set" sold at Home Depot and Lowes. It does set VERY quickly so I recommend buying the additive that extends setting time so you have more time to work with it. I'd never used concrete before so I made some mistakes you can learn from - though it all turned out fine in the end. 1. use the additive for extended set time 2. follow the manufacturer's directions for mixing and use 3. seal your molds with caulking, I thought mine were tight enough to be OK but I had a couple of leaks because I was too lazy to caulk, and that was a big mess! 4. if You don't want knot-imprints in your concrete spend the extra for melamine boards. I used the cheap pine type and had a few interesting marks to sand out. In the thread below you will see pics of my mistakes - the part by the sink was caused by a leak in the mold, the concrete mix leaked out the bottom (I did have plastic down but it was a mess) and later had to be patched. It turned out OK but if I had caulked the molds in the first place it would not have happened. Self leveling concrete would perhaps have been easier to get a smooth surface with but others warned me it would crack and no be ideal for the thin overlay I was doing, so I went with this super strong repair material. It's been in for 6 months now and I haven't had any issues with cracking, staining or anything. There are a couple of fine hairline cracks that formed when it dried because I poured it right to the wall with no expansion joints and the countertop is wrapped around the whole room. I don't mind these, and they can be filled with a slurry of cement and water to fill before sealing. I didn't bother, I just sealed it as is and the hairline cracks are filled with the sealant so dirt does not get in. I think it adds character. I considered acid staining but decided I was done with the project and liked the light gray color as is! Here is my before/after "reveal" Here is a link that might be useful: Cement All...See MoreConcrete over Tile Overlay Counter Top
Comments (8)The "thinnest" workable height to add a layer of concrete would be around 1", and that's with using very small aggregate and fiber reinforcement instead of a traditional mix with a lot more strength. It wouldn't be thick enough or strong enough (even with the fiber reinforcing) to remain crack free, and it really doesn't have enough depth to be wire reinforced. And, you're raising your counters at least 1". Counters are 36" high for a reason. I'm sorry, but this sounds like another of those "HGTVisms" like glueing chicken feathers to a wall or using hollow core doors to make an outdoor table. It's "fine" for the 15 minutes it's being filmed, and a total disaster for someone to deal with after the camera stops....See MoreInterior Concrete Overlay Nightmare
Comments (2)There is a big difference between what you Supposedly asked for and what you have now. Looks like the only way to fix this is to fill it out more. Either way was there a sample of what was discussed? Or just verble discussion?...See MoreLetty Point
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