wow this made my day ... After finding are home flooded with sewer water and then getting every thing ripped out and redone ,,, after we started to put things back in we found a wet spot on the new carpet in the office .... so had the guys remove the new drywall from the floor up to about 3 feet thinking they hit a pipe with a nail , or a screw ... nope was the the main copper pipe drain for upstairs bathroom ,, cut out higher and found the leak in a elbow joint ,, in a very hard place to fix ,,,, so went out and got the ep-200 epoxy putty ,,, cleaned up the joint really good then applied the epoxy .... been 2 days and still holding ... so this gives me hope ... until i can get it fixed ..

I've worked with copper in the past so I would be the installer. The cost to have a sheet metal shop manufacture the 6 or so pieces is about the same cost as hiring a roofer to install torch down. The difference is that I'm doing the installation of the copper and I'm about as slow at working with metal as they come. A carpenter friend who does high-end remodels in the hills up and down Silicon Valley said he's seen copper under decks quite a few times. I just haven't found anyone who has actually installed one. Roof pan is probably an inaccurate description as there is no drain. It all drains off the edge of the roof/decking into a gutter at 1/4"/ft. I would attempt to have all my folded and soldered seams in the downhill position. A presumed advantage to metal is that if a leak appears, it can feasibly be fixed from the underside, if it can be found. My dad suggested building a fiberglass pan, like a boat hull or giant shower pan. It could be tough to install because resin is so messy but might just work. I'm still on the fence. I'll post if I decide to be a guinea pig on this project.

We all have different methods. Here's my recommendation: Tuck some tar paper (or some other barrier) between the copper and the existing metal lathe if you can. Wrap the tub stub with tar paper, tape it in place. Doesn;t need to be anything purdy or fancy. You want to keep any cement-based product off the copper. Patch in new expanded lathe over the tar paper, you can weave it in to blend the new metal with the old. You'll want to mix two things up; a portland cement slurry, and fat mud. Portland cement bonding slurry. This will act as a bonding agent to help the new mud stick to the existing wall mud. Simply mix portland cement with water to make a thin paste. Brush it on the existing mud to help the new mud stick to the old. Pretty simple. Fat mud. You'll fill that gap with fat mud. "Fat" simply means it has lime in it. Lime make a bit sticky. Recipes vary, but generally, mix by volume 4 parts sand, 1 part portland cement, and 1 part lime. You can buy bags of each individual component at most any box store. Dry mix all the ingredients. Add water carefully. You mix it wetter than deck mud (deck mud is wetted until it's barely moist, it's grainy like beach sand used to build a sand castle) but not as wet as a concrete mix that can flow out when poured on a flat surface. When shaped into a mound, fat mud will hold that shape instead of slumping flat. The goal is to get the fat mud to be wet enough to stick to itself, but dry enough to stick to vertical surfaces and not slump or fall off the wall. If you do youtube seach for "fat mud shower wall" I'm sure there are videos out there. When ready, clean existing surfaces, then paint them with the portland cement slurry. There's no magic here. Just get it on there. Then fill your hole with the fat mud. You can pack it in with a trowel, build it out so the mud patch s slightly proud of the surrounding surface. Then take a stick that's wider than the patch, place it against the good wall below your patch, and use a left/right sawing motion to shave the mud flush with the existing wall.

We were fortunate to discover our original bathroom floor under a layer of peachy 60's floor tile. A couple spots were broken and we also harvested tiles from under our fixtures. There are a couple long cracks that we've chosen to embrace ;). The grout that you see is probably exactly what was there. They are probably set in a thick bed of concrete. In some places we used Maipei Charcoal Sanded Caulk (tube) and found it a worthy match for touch ups. We went through a couple rounds of deep clean and it's good. My only issue is they look positively beautiful after I've cleaned them and they are *slightly* wet. It really elevates the look. I've never had the heart to put some kind of sealer on it to see if I can get them to look like that all the time. I have Miracle 511 Seal & Enhance on my short list.