Sorry. Website is pooltileworld.com.

I start every post with the same thing: "I'm no pool expert but..." LOL! Anyway, when we were looking at waterline tile our PB recommended against small mosaic because as you say it is more susceptible to the pieces falling off over time. We didn't really want that look, so it wasn't a big deal for us. But if you do decide to go that way, buy plenty of extra material and you can replace any that go missing.

The key is to waterproof under the tile. Unfortunately most builders don't take this step in order to meet a client's price point.

A waterproof compound should be incorporated in the mix design of the cement structure and leveling bed. An elastomeric membrane (one that stretches across a crack), then the setting material, tile, and grout.

Expansion joints are critical as well.

From a service standpoint that a builder will not know. The more grout you have the dirtier the tile will look over time. Waterline grout absorbs suntan oils, sweat and oils and as grime sticks to it, your mosaic will show a lot more grime that will not really stay clean. Sure, the obvious answer is to say we'll clean it but that's not the case. It looks horrid especially if the tile is light colored. Less grout and hopefully a on-white grout looks nicer and hides the oil.

Quote: "An elastomeric membrane (one that stretches across a crack), then the setting material, tile, and grout."

Crack isolation membranes are typically used in large tile areas to isolate the tile from the substrate so that if the substrate cracks (common in concrete) it will not telegraph through the tile. One issue with mosaic is each individual tile doesn't have a lot of contact area, so a point-load impact has a higher probability of knocking one loose versus a larger tile which will spread the impact over a larger area. I'm not saying that mosaic will be popping off and flying all over the place by any means, but over many years time I wouldn't be surprised to see several go missing even with good substrate prep. Some people wouldn't mind installing a replacement now and then whereas others would find it very objectionable, so it's really personal preference.

We know someone that paid a small fortune for frost proof glass 3/4" by 3/4" tiles for their waterline and after the fist winter, tiles started popping off. They regret their decision, and battle with fixing them every spring.....

thejimbar:

If the tiles are "popping off" in one piece. i.e not broken, then the problem has nothing to do with the tile being frost proof. It is an installation issue.
When installing small tiles on a mesh back it is very important that the installer ensures that the thinset is bonding to the tile and not just the mesh. This often requires buttering the backs of the tile sheets with the setting materials.

All good advice.
Let me add one other factor that contributes to how well mesh backed piece tile stays on the pool water line.
Cantilever decks installed over piece tile tend to create more tile problems than coping(i.e. stone, brick, or poured-in-place concrete) over piece tile. The cantilever decks will expand and slide over the top of the beam slightly and this movement tends to affect the piece tile even when a slip joint is used.
Coping adheres to the beam and becomes part of the pool structure. Used in conjunction with an expansion joint behind it, there will be few problems with the piece tile installation. Good luck.

Thank you all very much for the info.

I do plan to have cantilever concrete coping with as many expansion joints as they want to use. Golfgeek, does this mean we would be more likely to experience problems with our tile? (I think that is what you were saying in your post.)

I KNOW I will not clean the tile, and that is one reason I thought mosaic might be a better choice because it would hide stains better due to the fact that I am looking at a blend of lighter and some darker colors.

Do you think if we used a medium colored grout it would help with the grout getting dirty as opposed to using a white grout?

BUT, having read through all of these posts again - especially the one who knows someone whose 3/4" tile started popping off (!!!) - I am thinking this may NOT be such a hot idea...

I LOVE the look of the mosaic tile, but I am not at all excited about the potential for problems there might be.

I REALLY want an iridescent tile - in a 6" x 6" cobalt or medium blue color.

Can someone recommend a source for that? I can't seem to track any down!

Again, thanks so much. A lot of food for thought.

http://lightstreamsglasstile.com/default.aspx

David Knox is a sharp guy who makes unique tile.
Largest format is 4x4

oakrunfarm,
Expansion joints in the deck that run perpendicular to the pool wall will not help protect the tile from movement.
Cantilever decking and cantilever coping are two different things.
Cantilever decking refers to the entire concrete deck poured at the same time with a cantilever form.
Cantilever coping is any brick, stone, or poured in place concrete that cantilevers over the edge of the tile and is roughly the same width as the gunite beam of the pool. It is separate from any other deck area outside the pool and is separated by an expansion joint along the back of the coping. This expansion joint is what protects/separates the coping/tile from movement.
Again, referring to my last post, let me stress that you will dramatically increase the chance of having tile problems if you use piece tile and cantilever decking. Good luck.

Here are pics of our tiles. Ours are rated frost proof. We are in the Pacific NW and it's currently 20 degrees out and will be all week.

Our pool was completed in September 2007 so I can't say if I'll have any future problems. I did order extra tiles just in case.

Our pool builder used a specific type of grout - sorry don't know the brand, but I believe it is of the silicone rubber type.

We went with a silver/gray grout because white was too stark and took away from the beautiful blue. (We changed this after they use white on the first set of tiles.)

As for cleaning, no matter what type of tile line you have I believe you'll always get a bit of bathtub ring because of skin and oils. I wiped my tiles with a little soap and water to keep the iridescence nice and reflective.

We love our tiles and are glad we went with them.

Here is a link that might be useful: Our Pool Photos

Poolmissy, your waterline tile is STUNNING! That is almost exactly the color I am looking for.

Which color is that? What brand? Are they 1" or 3/4"?
So many questions, lol.

I got on the link and looked at your photos. All very nice. You must be thrilled.

I ordered my own tile and got a credit from the builder. I'm a member of a wholesale outfit and got my tiles at cost. I think I paid $7.50 per sheet. (That equals $3.75 per foot for my water tile line. If your builder can get it for you within your tile line allowance I wouldn't hesitate to accept it.

They are 3/4" tiles. The 1' square sheet worked perfectly cut in 1/2 to get 2' x 6" of tile line.

The Brand I bought is American Olean and the color style is "Indigo".

I know there are many other tile makers that offer nearly identical glass tiles so don't feel like you need to order them from American Olean.

Glad you like them. They look awesome when they reflect the sun.

If I had been able to look for a grout color, I would have gone with a light blue so it would blend more, but didn't have the time to find it and settled on the silver/grey which looks so much softer than the stark white. I'm still happy with it though.

The first day they started to grout with the white, he got about 2 tiles in and I walked out and said Whoa! And immediately had them stop. That allowed me to change color, but to only what was in stock and I believe I would have had to custom order a blue grout and time would not allow for that.

Good luck - let me know if you have any more questions.

Here is a link that might be useful: American Olean Tiles

You should take a look at Lightstreams Glass Tiles. They have a beautiful Royal Blue glass tile that is iridescent on one side and they are reversible! They are shiny on the other side. What a different idea. They do appear to be quite thick; I think the smallest they make is a 2"x2", but really stunning.

Here is a link that might be useful: Lightstreams Glass Tiles

Hakatai is another good manufacturer. I think they are still having a sale too!

Here is a link that might be useful: Hakatai Glass Tile

I really wanted to use mosaic tile too. I am so glad we did. We aren't finished quite yet, but I will try to attach a couple of photos. Good luck!

http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=2dcevsy&s=3

http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=2qk721u&s=3

Here is a link that might be useful: Photo

Here's a picture of the spa.

Here is a link that might be useful: Spa Photo

Vicki 2008 - WOW! Your pool and tile are gorgeous!

Thanks! We are happy with the way it turned out.

Poolmissy,
Can you share the name of the wholesale outfit you used? I've got a big renovation coming up and need a significant amount of tile like yours. Thanks!

We have been installing glass in our pools for over a decade, from the waterline, to perimeter overflow, to the entire pool bottom. The right mosaic glass can be stunning and turn your pool / water-feature into a work of art. This info is from the web..but its advise that we typically share with every homeowner.

Durability Although known as one of the longest-lasting pool and spa finishing materials, glass tile can be subject to both cracking and chipping, especially when exposed to rapid changes in temperature. Such failures are generally the result of substandard products that have found their way into the market. Research your selected manufacturer and ask friends, your designer, and even your installer for recommendations. A qualified tile worker can often spot a material problem by how well the tiles stand up to being cut for installation (questionable material will chip when cut, for instance). Such overly brittle material will be susceptible to failure.

• Rough edges Some glass tile products have sharp edges, due largely to the manufacturing process, as well as trimming during installation. The problem can be eliminated by careful buffing after installation by a qualified installer, but homeowners should always discuss this potential issue with their swimming pool designer and the installer.

• Quality installation Glass tile is tricky to install compared to other types of tile. Installations should only be performed by tile setters experienced with the material. Otherwise, the work could be visually marred by uneven grout lines and even subject to failure (such as tiles falling off the surface), sometimes within just a few weeks of the initial installation.

http://www.houzz.com/pro/urban-landscape

http://urbanlandscape.com/

A Whale is born · More Info

OK, as a pool builder I hate 3/4 to 1" tile of any sort, for most of the above reasons. On occasions I wear the expert witness hat, and many times I have been involved with cases where small pool tiles are coming off, the causes have been proven to be varied - not proper buttering of tiles, impurities in tile (esp. expensive european tile), and not following manufacturers directions(esp. curing times). The biggest negative i see is just the fact that the surface space of a small tile isn't big enough. I recommend the use of 2" glass tile to all my clients, a 2" tile has 4 times the surface space to adhere to the wall of the pool. The manufacturer I recommend is Lightstreams, there tile is very pure, tape mounted on the face (so there is no mesh), Made in northern California primarily for the pool industry,

a Whale is born · More Info

a whale is born · More Info

and it is absolutely beautiful.

More pictures

Blue Pool · More Info

Blue Pool · More Info

Blue Pool · More Info

Scenic Orinda Landscape Remodel · More Info