seattlemamadrama ~Well my Wasauna story ended badly. The first tub was drained the wrong way for me. I shipped it back at their expense and received my replacement last week. The crate was in horrible condition, held together by plastic wrap about 2 times around it. The person who sent it to me must have received my tub and we just traded. I sent him one in perfect condition never removed from the crate. The tub he sent me was dirty, removed from the crate and damaged with scratches. I refused the delivery and call Alex for a refund. He tried to give me 300.00 off and get a new one sent to me but I just took my refund. I have not seen the credit on my card as yet, it has been 4 days. I would say stay away from them. I am in the process of looking for something else now. Good luck to you! Mariofo

This reaffirms once again that plumbers chase cars and lick themselves in public. IMO,the guy is liable for ruining your tub. If you want to hear more on that,say so. A self respecting professional would have used a sump pump to remove the mess created in the standing water. It would be realy presumptuous to say I know how to fix it when I havn't seen the place but anyone calling themself a plumber should after examining the home. To answer your question "is there really a "TRAP" that clogs up?????",yes it's common and usually requires only a plunger to clear. If you decide to remove your neighbor's ceiling you might try this first. Ask at the hardware store for a device that is attached to a garden hose and forced as far as possible into clogged pipe where it swells and pressurizes when water is turned on to hose. Remove the plate from end of tub between drain and facuets to expose the pipe for insertion. There is some risk of pressure disjointing a pipe and wetting downstairs ceiling but you were going to replace it anyhow. There is far better odds the pipe will be cleared without incident and you save yourself lots of ceiling repair. Kousea,before you try this,instead of pushing hose blaster into pipe,stuff a wet cloth into it then plunge the drain opening in bottom of tub.

It really doesn't matter whether you get it from the tub mfg, the faucet mfg, a third party mfg or even select a generic however there is one point you must consider. Common Waste & Overflow kits have compression joints to permit minor adjustments during installation. The code prohibits compression joints unless there will be a 12"x12" service access either through an adjacent wall or up from underneath. If the Waste & Overflow will be in a confined space with no service access panel you are required to use a glue in type waste & overflow kit. The type of drain function you are looking for will be listed as a "Lever Waste" as opposed to the "Toe Touch" which you do not want.

Agree that the angle is wrong on the legs, but I do see that the pads are threaded, which means you should be able to adjust for the floor not being perfectly flat, or a tub that is slightly warped, and have all four feet in contact. I also agree with Seabornman on the point loading and danger to the tile... it was the first thing I noticed when I saw the pictures. I am dubious that you’re going to find a fix which will allow the pads at the bottom of the feet to sit flat. If you don’t, you’re going to have to find something to put in between the floor and the feet, even if it’s just hard rubber pads. If this isn’t addressed you’re going to have a bigger problem: major tile damage.