My vent is a rigid vent, not a telescoping one. It is 4" typical rigid duct work to the outside except for the flex aluminum stuff that is at the big box that I put in. I have never done any of this before, so I read and tried to figure it out as best I could. The box and flexible duct work I got online at an outfit called the Dryerbox. I linked it below. The box is put in upside down compared to their pictures because my vent goes into my basement and exits the side of the house. Be sure to calculate the duct run that is recommended by your dryer manufacturer. Each 90degree bend subtracts 5' of run you have available as recommended by the manufacturer. So you want to have the least amount of bends. I don't think the flex connection counts though, at least it doesn't for my dryer. You can get these flexable auger like brush for cleaning vents. They sell them at the website I linked below and at Lowes. I used it for my old dryer and it works. You are supposed to be able to run the brush using your drill to spin it, from your outside vent. When we cleaned ours it was beneficial to be able to get the brush right into the dryer itself, attaching a vacuum to pull out accumulated lint. There was plenty. Regarding the water, I think where ever you can reach it and get it turned off is the important thing. I plan on turning the water off between uses, now that I have the set in my living area. My old set is in the basement and I didn't give it a thought. This laundry project has taught me a lot about better management of my appliances. I installed Floodchek hoses on my basement set. http://www.floodchek.com/ I bought 2 sets and gave one set to my plumber. He thought they looked like high pressure hoses. He liked them. Regarding your pull out. Could you have a top and a bottom pull out, then a shelving area with door to hide and access the vent, electric, and water? Here is another drawing of my setup. It shows where the vent goes inside the wall and down to the basement. There will be a door on the shelving area where I can pull out the shelves to get to the vent exiting the dryer on the side. I bought a Miele set and there is the option for side venting. There is also my water connection on the right side that isn't shown on this drawing, but is seen in my picture. I also have and outlet near the front of this cabinet for an iron. The bottom area will be open for a laundry basket, though I will have shelving available if I want to use them. The bottom area is where my electric outlets for the W/D are. The one drawer shown will be one of those pull out ironing boards. I do very little ironing but thought it could be handy. My counter between the ironing drawer and the shelving above will not be exposed, instead hidden behind the door (door not indicated on this drawing) When the door is open there will be the vent box and water hoses visible I'm afraid. But it will be all accessible. Current design of my setup, showing vent that is inside the wall: Here is a link that might be useful: The Dryerbox online store.

"...just trickling out...." There's your clue. That isn't "pressure" other than gravity acting on what remains in the pipes. Weedmeister is correct. Annoying because it seems to go on forever. When you replace those valves, use 1/4-turn ball-valves. If you use the el-cheapos you just removed you're going round again with frozen valves when you most need to be able to close them. The ball valves cost more but so little more there really isn't any excuse not to buck up and do it right.

I can go to a plumbing supply place and get it. Right now I soldered on a female adapter that is threaded. I then attached a fitting that has the 3/8 inch male. Not sure if that is correct but it is temporary until I get the new cabinet installed. There is currently a union that I can take apart to remove the whole assembly. Thanks for the reply. Not sure why HD does not carry this since they have hundreds of other fittings.

I believe they will have to come up through the countertop. We live in Wisconsin and they can't put the pipes on the outside wall, they have to come up through the floor from the basement. There won't be enough space between the washer and the counter for the valves. I was thinking of some sort of box that could slide out for access if needed but I didn't think about matching the formica. The cabinet maker suggested making a special cabinet for it with a door and it would be fitted like a stacked cabinet between the counter and the upper cabinets. I'm sure they could make it look really nice but I didn't want the extra expense of a matching cabinet. I'm doing a kitchen, laundry room and half bath remodel at once so I will be deciding on tile for some of these areas this week. Depending on how pricey the tile is I might put tile in the space between the countertop and uppers in the laundry room. (Cost might dictate paint for now) The remodeled half bath will be across the hall from the laundry room. We are putting in new tile flooring throughout, maybe just changing up the pattern a little to distinguish the rooms from the hallway, so the color palate will be similar in both rooms. In the bathroom I will have a wall tiled halfway up behind my sink and toilet. I was wondering if I could make the box out of the same tile I use for the half wall in the bathroom. The washer and dryer will be on the same south wall just across a small hallway. Do you think that could work or should I stick with a formica covered box?