Dorothy, There are many species of flea beetles and different species eat different things. Some of them are general feeders and will eat anything with leaves and others only eat specific types of plants. In general, in terms of the vegetable garden, the kinds of flea beetles I see here feed on the foliage of eggplant, tomato, peppers, eggplant, petunias and all the brassicas. When those plants aren't actively growing, they eat weeds. I've noticed flea beetle type damage on the wild solanum plants like horse nettle even in the middle of summer, although I've never gotten down on my hands and knees in the pasture to see if it is, in fact, flea beetles causing the damage to the plants. There are many organic methods of dealing with them, everything from botanical pesticides to beneficial insects to trap plants or companion plants to merely covering the eggplants with floating row covers to keep the flea beetles off of them for as long as possible. Of course, you have to remove the row covers in order for pollination to occur, but hopefully by that time the plants will be large enough to withstand any possible damage. Since some species of flea beetles are believed to overwinter in soil (or in yard and garden 'debris' like mulch), I think it might be worthwhile to treat garden soil with beneficial nematodes in early spring as the beneficial nematodes are reputed to help control flea beetles. In our climate, beneficial nematodes are best used only in mid to late-autumn and in spring because they don't work as well in hot conditions or during cold weather. I often plant radishes as a trap crop around eggplant, potatoes, tomatoes and peppers because the radishes can be planted early---before everything else except the potatoes---but even then, the radishes are up and growing before the potato foliage breaks through the soil. The flea beatles flock to the radishes and then I spray the radishes with something like neem or insecticidal soap to kill them. Most botanical pesticides are reasonably good at reducing their numbers but I've never seen anything completely wipe them out. I think in a rural area there's just too many of them for us to ever achieve great control. Rotenone is one of the most effective botanical pesticides for flea beetle control, technically speaking, but you know that I don't use it and wouldn't recommend it, and I know you feel exactly the same way. I believe I'd use a chemical pesticide like Sevin before I'd ever use Rotenone. In fact, I would never use it. (It is an example of a very dangerous organic pesticide that I think shouldn't even be allowed in organic gardening.) Mustard greens are a great trap crop for flea beetles, but if I was using them I wouldn't plant them in the main garden because they are flea beetle magnets and when I've grown them in the garden, I seem to have more flea beetles all over the garden than ever before. I'd plant mustard greens in a row near the garden but several feet away from it to draw the flea beetles away from the garden. (You can use sunflowers in the same way to draw stinkbugs away from the veggie garden.) I'm going to go to the ATTRA website and link their pages on Flea Beetle control, which are wonderful and very detailed. ATTRA publications are my 'go to' resource when I'm looking for an organic method for anything. They only include well-researched organic rememdies, and avoid the 'home remedies' many people resort to that are generally unproven. Dawn Here is a link that might be useful: Flea Beetle Control From ATTRA

I agree with the other posters...If I were you,I'd find a new vet! Why put up with one who shrugs off your concerns? Worms can be dangerous and even kill a cat.Outside cats are at the highest risk for them. Does the cat appear to have a "pot belly" appearance? A swollen-like tubby belly despite maybe a lean body? That is a sign of worms. Although not the only sign. Worms can also effect people! Roundworms in general.Take extra care when cleaning the litter box~wear gloves. My cat got a tapeworm once from fleas (they swallow a flea that has tape worm larve on it) He seemed to want to sleep more and eat more.Then he had these little rice-looking segments coming out of his rear.Two shots and they were gone though. Roundworms are different though.They wont come out unless they are being killed.Once given the medication,you will see dead ones in your cats stools if she indeed has them.

If your dogs are being treated, that is about it for treating the dogs. You have done the right thing by putting them on flea control medication, this will control worm infestation as well. Once the flea bites the dog it will die, it can not reproduce. Next step treat the environment. Dont do anything else with the dog, using flea shampoos, and over medicating your dog can cause your dog health issues so...If your back yard is infested you can either treat with DE (not the kind you use in the pool - that has added chemicals), keep the dogs away for awhile and dont inhale the stuff while applying (read the instrutions) If your dogs are getting the fleas somewhere else, you will need to change tactics to avoid that place for awhile. Next is you. Make sure you are not getting bit, because once a flea bites you it can reproduce...If the De does not work or you live in a place where there is alot of rainfall - DE's power to kill fleas will be diminished when it gets wet, is to contact a pest control agent to get your yard sprayed. Good luck

For shirts: I would cut off the cuffs, use the biggest portion of the fabric remaining in the sleeve; remove the front chest pocket(s), cut off the button plackets on both center fronts (button and buttonhole), and use the remaining fabric on the two shirt fronts; cut out the seams and hems of the front and back; cut out the back yoke and use the remaining back fabric. For aprons: remove any patch pockets; cut off the waistband and sash to use the largest piece of fabric in the apron, then check the sash to see if it is at least 1 1/2 inch wide, of so, save the widest part of the sash. If the pockets are large enough, you maybe can use them too. Be sure to wash all clothes first and check labels to see that the fabric in the garment is 100% cotton. You can do a burn test to check for fabric content if no label: cut a few thin slivers of the fabric, put in a large metal/glass ash tray, can or bowl. Light with a match and let the fabric burn. Stay with your experiment and keep kids away! When the fire goes out you should have soft grayish dust remaining = 100% cotton. If there is a smell of burning oil or if melted globs of residue result, you do not have 100% cotton, but a blend with some man-made fibers included. That's not to say that you can't use blended fabrics in your quilts, but they may not feel as good as all cotton or react in the wash the same way. Hope this helps! Teresa