Repipe with Copper or CPVC?
amritakaur
11 years ago
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alan_s_thefirst
11 years agoamritakaur
11 years agoRelated Discussions
Copper or CPVC for Re-Pipe?
Comments (5)A test you can do at home is to batter a sample of regular CPVC and a sample of FlowGard Gold with a hammer while the samples are resting on a hard surface. The FlowGard Gold is very impressive in the punishment it can endure....See MoreCopper or CPVC to replace copper pipes?
Comments (8)"Is it necessary, or a good idea to replace the areas of the house that were not included in the remodel, since the house is 25 years old since it is M copper?" Yes, do a total replacement, as the copper has reached it expected life expectancy. CPVC is widely used in mobil homes due to it's flexibility and lack of out-gassing at the glue joints. "Also, the plumber wants to use several island vents, including one in a bathroom. He doesn't want to go through the roof." You need to have a short and serious chat with your contractor about quality of workmanship, because this is BS. "And yes I think this is all about the general contractor saving money, my husband is afraid that if we push him too hard about the pipes he will charge us more on change orders/items that he has completed, but will not give us a price on." In many states all change orders are required in the business and professional code, to be fully priced upon presentation for signature. But, why would you sign an authorization to proceed, without knowing what it cost? "We ask him how much adding or changing something will be, instead of telling us he just builds it without giving a price or change order. We have asked him several times to write it up, but he does not, Its really irritating and yes my contract states that he must give us the change order in witting, before he changes anything." If you know an attny. better yet where he lives, don't wait until monday, race over to his house and break in....See MoreCopper repipe or Pex repipe for 10 unit building?
Comments (7)The HOA is doing it and I'm on the HOA. The building was built in 1961 and it has galvanized water. I think we're going to share the meter. Not individual. This should keep it cheaper. My main concern at this time is how soon the system would degrade? Which would last longer PEX or Copper? Seems like scientists say PEX last long, but it's only been around in california for a few years. I've seen first hand copper corroding with pinhole leaks after just 20 years, but I don't know if that was just a fluke...See MoreCopper Repiping
Comments (9)To correct a couple point of Bayme's statement: "Some use dielectric fittings between copper and steel, some don't. Unless you use alot of water you should be able to use 1/2" copper, but it's no big deal to use 3/4" either. Make sure it is "L" rated for plumbing." 1. All the plumbing codes strictly prohibit directly coupling copper to iron pipe. You are required to transition by means of a dielectric union, dielectric nipple or a 6" hardened bronze nipple between the copper and iron pipe. Failure to do so will result in electrolosys and premature failure. 2. The code minimum size for a residential water supply line is 3/4" and that same 3/4" should be maintained inside the structure until it reaches the Hot & Cold junction at the water heater. While it was eluded that this is not a big deal, it is in fact a very big deal because a 3/4" line has more than twice the volume capacity of a 1/2" line, thus reducing the line to half inch reduces the volume of flow to less than 50% of the rated system design. When comparing pipe capacity we cannot use diamter but rather we must us a formula that compares cross sectional area, therefore the formula is Large Diameter Squared divided by small diameter squared. Comparing 3/4" to 1/2" we get: (3/4 x 3/4) / (1/2 x 1/2) = (.75 x .75) / (,5 x .5) = 0.5625 / 0.25 = 2.25 This means a 3/4" line carries 2.25 times the volume of a 1/2" line. While type "L" copper is the preferred material for residential distribution piping, the codes do permit types M, L & K (both roll pipe and rigid tempered pipe) for distribution piping above grade inside the structure. Type "M" may not be used below grade. Unions are required on both the hot and cold water lines within 12" of the top of a water heater. While additional unions may prove somewhat handy for future maintenance it is also very easy to just cut the pipe and rejoin it with a sweat coupling. Unions are mechanical fittings and MAY NOT be installed in concealed locations....See More_sophiewheeler
11 years agoamritakaur
11 years agoamritakaur
11 years agojustalurker
11 years agoamritakaur
11 years agojustalurker
11 years agoEdward Hakobyan
2 months agoJake The Wonderdog
2 months ago
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